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- #761
Thanks! I drive about 80 miles during my commute. Only seen one FJ60 in ~1.5 years, and I was in my Corolla.
ROTM- klinetime574
- Thread starter klinetime574
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Thanks! I drive about 80 miles during my commute. Only seen one FJ60 in ~1.5 years, and I was in my Corolla.
I was in my commuter car as well when I saw the other two 60's. Wish I was in my truck, lol. I still hope that I run into someone at some point. That would be cool.
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Any updates?!
- Thread starter
- #764
I did the driver side window regulator not too long ago. Window works great.
Debating doing some window tint myself. Just dropped like $275 for tint on my Corolla, and SUV's are more expensive.
Sounds like I'll need about 4 rolls @ 6.5' (78") each
Got some rough measurements of the windows:
Front & Rear Door Glass - 64" - measured including the B-pillar
Quarter Windows - 36"
Rear Window - 51"
Texas requires 25% VLT on the front windows. Rears can be as dark as you want. Thinking I'll do 5% on the back and the darkest possible for the front. Looking at Gila window tint on Amazon, looks like it only comes in 5% (Super Limo Black), 20% (Limo Black), and 35% (Dark Smoke). Kinda worried the 35% won't match the look. Might have more purple/blue in it than black. So I'll need to research more. For less than $100 and a lot of time if I can tint the Cruiser I would prefer to. Don't really trust anyone with it.
I also need to figure out what is squealing at over 2k rpm. Been reading about fan clutches failing and locking up too much causing the belt to slip. I did have a worn AP/WP/Crank belt last time, but I thought it was from age, not a bad fan clutch. The new belt still squeals. And the fan clutch is less than two years old. AISIN unit.
I probably need to replace the AC idler bearing. I will remove it and see if that is causing the noise or not.
Need to get the engine pulled on my Geo so I can get the Cruiser back in the garage. Lost more paint on the hood. Would be nice to respray it the same way I did my roof.
Need to clean my garage though. I have some work to do that's for sure.
Debating doing some window tint myself. Just dropped like $275 for tint on my Corolla, and SUV's are more expensive.
Sounds like I'll need about 4 rolls @ 6.5' (78") each
Got some rough measurements of the windows:
Front & Rear Door Glass - 64" - measured including the B-pillar
Quarter Windows - 36"
Rear Window - 51"
Texas requires 25% VLT on the front windows. Rears can be as dark as you want. Thinking I'll do 5% on the back and the darkest possible for the front. Looking at Gila window tint on Amazon, looks like it only comes in 5% (Super Limo Black), 20% (Limo Black), and 35% (Dark Smoke). Kinda worried the 35% won't match the look. Might have more purple/blue in it than black. So I'll need to research more. For less than $100 and a lot of time if I can tint the Cruiser I would prefer to. Don't really trust anyone with it.
I also need to figure out what is squealing at over 2k rpm. Been reading about fan clutches failing and locking up too much causing the belt to slip. I did have a worn AP/WP/Crank belt last time, but I thought it was from age, not a bad fan clutch. The new belt still squeals. And the fan clutch is less than two years old. AISIN unit.
I probably need to replace the AC idler bearing. I will remove it and see if that is causing the noise or not.
Need to get the engine pulled on my Geo so I can get the Cruiser back in the garage. Lost more paint on the hood. Would be nice to respray it the same way I did my roof.
Need to clean my garage though. I have some work to do that's for sure.
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A,
Spray a little WD 40 on you AC idler when its running and then raise the RPMs to that 2k mark. Sometimes just tightening up the belt will solve the issue. When the motor is off, look to see if you see any marking or even a groove in the idler.
J
Spray a little WD 40 on you AC idler when its running and then raise the RPMs to that 2k mark. Sometimes just tightening up the belt will solve the issue. When the motor is off, look to see if you see any marking or even a groove in the idler.
J
- Thread starter
- #766
Well. Time for my yearly update. Sorry I haven’t been posting much. Still been watching a little bit though.
I got my AC working again. Had a leak at the high side port. Drove it all this past week to work. Averaged 12.8mpg.
I just finished up installing new front window runs and inner and outer felts. Felts being the pieces at the bottom of the window, mounted on the door card (inner) and the door itself (outer). The window runs I bought did need to be cut. Took about 14.5 inches off. I’d say 14.25” would be safe too. Don’t do any more than 14.5” cause then it will be too short. This length was taken off of the side nearest the hinge because the lower window run is a different profile and also the new runs aren’t long enough to hold the window when it’s rolled down. I’ll post some pics that hopefully make sense.
The new window run over the top of the door. See the hinge side is long, but not long enough to go all the way down.
Here you can see where the stock window run ends and the stock lower window run starts.
The difference in profile between the lower run and the rest. The old looking part is the lower run. I re-used them. If I had know how this worked before maybe I would have replaced them, but they really aren’t in that bad of shape.
The part number. Ordered these runs from @Cruiser Corps
A shot roughly showing how much I cut off. The angle is off, I cut about 14.5” off. Always measure yours to be sure. Just want to share my experience.
I’ll make another post in a few minutes.
I got my AC working again. Had a leak at the high side port. Drove it all this past week to work. Averaged 12.8mpg.
I just finished up installing new front window runs and inner and outer felts. Felts being the pieces at the bottom of the window, mounted on the door card (inner) and the door itself (outer). The window runs I bought did need to be cut. Took about 14.5 inches off. I’d say 14.25” would be safe too. Don’t do any more than 14.5” cause then it will be too short. This length was taken off of the side nearest the hinge because the lower window run is a different profile and also the new runs aren’t long enough to hold the window when it’s rolled down. I’ll post some pics that hopefully make sense.
The new window run over the top of the door. See the hinge side is long, but not long enough to go all the way down.
Here you can see where the stock window run ends and the stock lower window run starts.
The difference in profile between the lower run and the rest. The old looking part is the lower run. I re-used them. If I had know how this worked before maybe I would have replaced them, but they really aren’t in that bad of shape.
The part number. Ordered these runs from @Cruiser Corps
A shot roughly showing how much I cut off. The angle is off, I cut about 14.5” off. Always measure yours to be sure. Just want to share my experience.
I’ll make another post in a few minutes.
- Thread starter
- #767
Got a few Amazon gift cards for my 27th birthday. Ordered a CB Radio. Finally time to use the @reevesci built antenna mount. Credit to @kevinmrowland for its design. Got a 3ft Firestik, quick disconnect, spring base, Firestik cable with ring stud mount, AM/FM/CB splitter, and the most important part. A Midland 75-822 CB Radio. I liked the portability and ease of install. Plug into the splitter and a 12V outlet. Ready to go. Or unplug from the car and put a battery base on it for handheld use.
So I installed all of that. And then ordered a SWR meter today. Should have just ordered that initially.
Pics
Oh and the Monday I drove it to work a heater hose blew up. The one between the oil cooler and lower radiator hard line. I had some spare 5/8” hose in the cargo area. Replaced it. Filled with distilled water the GF brought me and I’ve been driving it since. No problem.
I’ll see if I think of anything else.
So I installed all of that. And then ordered a SWR meter today. Should have just ordered that initially.
Pics
Oh and the Monday I drove it to work a heater hose blew up. The one between the oil cooler and lower radiator hard line. I had some spare 5/8” hose in the cargo area. Replaced it. Filled with distilled water the GF brought me and I’ve been driving it since. No problem.
I’ll see if I think of anything else.
I approve of you having AC again.
How's the FM reception with the splinter. I got the same setup and had to make my own end where it mounts into the splitter box. FM not so good. Not sure if it's the 24" antenna or the way I made the cable end.
- Thread starter
- #771
Wet Okole. The colors are customizable to an extent. I don’t know if I’d go with a light colored center portion again. It’s got a few dark spots on it now.
No issues with reception. Even before I applied solder to the coax where it meets the splitter. Although I am in Houston and the signals are probably strong. You are running a ground wire on the antenna, correct?
Probably a no on the ground wire. And no solder. And I'm in the country. Will have to try that. Thanks
- Thread starter
- #773
My A/C drain kept getting clogged. I got tired of that. Here is my solution.
That’s 5/8” Heater Hose just shoved on the drain. Led into my Rigid vacuum. Removed the filter of course and all other junk before suction. Boom. Water.
I win.
That’s 5/8” Heater Hose just shoved on the drain. Led into my Rigid vacuum. Removed the filter of course and all other junk before suction. Boom. Water.
I win.
- Thread starter
- #774
Recently acquired an ARB rear bumper. Took off the stock. Then had a heck of a time getting the 6 rivets out to mount the ARB. Turns out this bumper must be a bolt on for an FJ62. My rear cross member doesn’t allow the frame rail holes to line up. 1984 frame just to be clear.
I apologize those pictures are dark but it does get the point across. You can see the two holes lined up for the cross member but not lining up on the frame.
Finally got the rivets out today. Large Harbor Freight punch and a 4lb sledge. Don’t miss the punch. Hurts your hand.
Now I need to decide what to do. This bumper doesn’t seem stout enough for me to remove the cross member. But I also would hate to modify this vintage bumper.
What would you do?
I apologize those pictures are dark but it does get the point across. You can see the two holes lined up for the cross member but not lining up on the frame.
Finally got the rivets out today. Large Harbor Freight punch and a 4lb sledge. Don’t miss the punch. Hurts your hand.
Now I need to decide what to do. This bumper doesn’t seem stout enough for me to remove the cross member. But I also would hate to modify this vintage bumper.
What would you do?
- Thread starter
- #775
Pictures of the actual bumper.
Please note the little metal 90 degree bracket was removed before test fit. Would have interfered with the rear cross member. No idea what that thing was. AFAIK I’m the third owner of this bumper.
Please note the little metal 90 degree bracket was removed before test fit. Would have interfered with the rear cross member. No idea what that thing was. AFAIK I’m the third owner of this bumper.
Get rid of it. Mount the bumper and see if @reevesci crossmember could work if your worried about it. Or make your own if you have the patience for it and a friend who welds who likes to drink beer. Sick bumper, hoping it works out for you.
- Thread starter
- #777
You’re kind of saying two things here. What I’m leaning towards right now is making this bumper fit. Then it will be a bolt on FJ60 bumper. I don’t think ARB ever sold one. Can anyone confirm this? I’ve read a few posts. I think from @Cabrito that this bumper is a bolt on for the FJ62 only.
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Alex, your the 4th or 5th person I've seen that's tried to install that ARB design on a 60 and it won't work without modifying the rear crossmember. One guy just stepped the center section inward to make it fit, like so.
J
- Thread starter
- #779
Not too many posts about it! Lol
Just seems silly to modify the cross member. Why not modify the bumper? That portion contains the hitch which I wouldn’t trust more than the Draw-Tite I already have. I know they can’t fit at the same time due to the mounting style of the ARB.
So Jason can you confirm that the FJ62 frame is different in the rear compared to the FJ60 or was it a year change? Going further... Was there an ARB bolt on FJ60 bumper or was this only for FJ62?
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The one guy tried to manipulate the bumper and said it was pretty flimsy afterwards and had to reinforce the bumper. IIRC it was on Pirate.
62 rear
62 rear