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IIRC the ARB and the Kaymar both said they would fit a 60 and 62 alike but only the 62 would work without mods.
ROTM- klinetime574
- Thread starter klinetime574
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #782
I only frequent MUD, not sure if I even have a Pirate username. Yeah that's what I'm figuring on the bumper as well. Modify and reinforce.
Yeah those 62 frame rail pictures look alien to me. Like, "is this real life" feeling. I can see how it would fit an FJ62 perfectly. Interestingly though I don't see holes in the cross member for the "center mount" if you will. I'll go back and look.
EDIT
Nevermind, I looked right over those holes. lol
- Thread starter
- #783
Making progress to put the stock bumper back on. M12 bolts didn’t fit through the frame rail holes to reattach the bumper brackets. 7/16” did. So I went to install and of course the bracket holes are smaller. Doesn’t make sense because it was joined by a rivet. But whatever. I need to enlarge the holes in the brackets and then I can reinstall.
Painted the brackets. They are a little bent. Might take some finesse to reinstall the bumper (BFH). Isn’t my paint booth wonderful?
Two shots of the rear with hitch reinstalled. Take note of the second picture. This is the difference in the frame between a FJ60 rear and FJ62 rear.
Not my rig but a 62. Posted earlier by J.
This difference makes the ARB rear bumper a true bolt on for the FJ62 only. Hence why I’m going to sell it. Not worth modifying the bumper or my 60 to make it fit. Going to sell local first. Texas, FJ62, anyone interested?
Painted the brackets. They are a little bent. Might take some finesse to reinstall the bumper (BFH). Isn’t my paint booth wonderful?
Two shots of the rear with hitch reinstalled. Take note of the second picture. This is the difference in the frame between a FJ60 rear and FJ62 rear.
Not my rig but a 62. Posted earlier by J.
This difference makes the ARB rear bumper a true bolt on for the FJ62 only. Hence why I’m going to sell it. Not worth modifying the bumper or my 60 to make it fit. Going to sell local first. Texas, FJ62, anyone interested?
PM'd you!
- Thread starter
- #785
Well I’ve been messing with some other stuff. I made a tailgate carpet using plywood. Never mounted it because I couldn’t figure out a good way. Drilled holes and tried to use the stock clips. Material was too thick. Just said screw it and used 5/16” body panel clips because that is how large the holes on the tailgate measure with the clips removed. Bought generic ones at O’Reillys. Don’t remember how thick the plywood is. But it’s sturdy! Haha
Used 8 clips rather than the stock 14. Seems to be fine.
Then I’ve been meaning to mount my CB-AM/FM splitter. Unplugged the antenna from the box and the Firestik cable broke.
Bought this from Fry’s Electronics. It seems to have worked. Not sure if I installed it correctly but I had an SWR of ~1.25:1 on Channel 19.
From my experience I think this is called a PL259 connection. This thing looked right so I bought it. Cut back the black sheathing. Slipped the nylon wrapped wire into the narrow portion. The copper wires that surround the nylon were then placed on the smaller metal piece and the sleeve then slips over that which I believe is the “crimp.” It seems to have worked. So I’ll leave it alone
Now I’m going to try and repair the blinkers. Di-electric grease and I have a new flasher. The switch (black stalk with twist for headlights and blinker/hazard) is discontinued if you didn’t know. Lol
Used 8 clips rather than the stock 14. Seems to be fine.
Then I’ve been meaning to mount my CB-AM/FM splitter. Unplugged the antenna from the box and the Firestik cable broke.
Bought this from Fry’s Electronics. It seems to have worked. Not sure if I installed it correctly but I had an SWR of ~1.25:1 on Channel 19.
From my experience I think this is called a PL259 connection. This thing looked right so I bought it. Cut back the black sheathing. Slipped the nylon wrapped wire into the narrow portion. The copper wires that surround the nylon were then placed on the smaller metal piece and the sleeve then slips over that which I believe is the “crimp.” It seems to have worked. So I’ll leave it alone
Now I’m going to try and repair the blinkers. Di-electric grease and I have a new flasher. The switch (black stalk with twist for headlights and blinker/hazard) is discontinued if you didn’t know. Lol
I’ve got the right pliers to crimp that. I use that connection at work. When I see you next, I can crimp it for you.
- Thread starter
- #787
Got my blinkers fixed. I put that in a separate thread. Here —> Blinker Fix
Drove the 60 to work today. Did great. Had not driven this thing since the beginning of December.
If I’m honest I need to still figure out why the first touch of my brakes is so weak and also need to replace my engine belts with Toyota parts rather than the Gates green stripes currently on it. My fan clutch must want my engine to stay cool. Summer time is coming though. Maybe it will act different when it’s in the 100’s. So with that logic I’ll just leave well enough alone.
Oh and I need to re-secure my vacuum gauge. It fell off (was adhesive taped to my dash under the HVAC). Also need to hide my CB FM AM Splitter. Currently just hanging out on the transmission hump.
Drove the 60 to work today. Did great. Had not driven this thing since the beginning of December.
If I’m honest I need to still figure out why the first touch of my brakes is so weak and also need to replace my engine belts with Toyota parts rather than the Gates green stripes currently on it. My fan clutch must want my engine to stay cool. Summer time is coming though. Maybe it will act different when it’s in the 100’s. So with that logic I’ll just leave well enough alone.
Oh and I need to re-secure my vacuum gauge. It fell off (was adhesive taped to my dash under the HVAC). Also need to hide my CB FM AM Splitter. Currently just hanging out on the transmission hump.
Try the bando belts. I’ve had great luck with them for the last 3 years and 20k. They run up to 3500 with no squeals.
- Thread starter
- #789
Drove the 60 all last week to work. Got home tonight in the Tundra and saw something on the inside of one of the front tires on the 60. I have some oil seepage going on. Engine leaking at the front and rear of the oil pan... sigh. Front axle is finally ready to be rebuilt. Got the smell good stuff on my right front tire (what I saw).
Already ordered a side cover gasket because I knew it was leaking (and a surprise for y’all). Maybe I’ll just go with the gurus advice and order a new pan. But I know this one is good. I just rushed the install last time. 2am overnighter 5 speed swap. And the paint job was terrible. I can fix it.
Pics of my misery
That oil cooler line is the one that burst on me a while ago. Now I know why...
The axle leak:
At least the Tundra is clean in the meantime
Decided I want to buy a car cover for the 60. Should have got one initially. The Geo has one because it fills with water otherwise. It stays clean under the cover and the sun stays off the paint. The 60 has definitely gotten worn from sitting outside. Nothing I can’t fix but it’s irritating. Need to keep the sun off of it. That’s not the only thing though, the water under it plays a role too. It’s always raining.
Already ordered a side cover gasket because I knew it was leaking (and a surprise for y’all). Maybe I’ll just go with the gurus advice and order a new pan. But I know this one is good. I just rushed the install last time. 2am overnighter 5 speed swap. And the paint job was terrible. I can fix it.
Pics of my misery
That oil cooler line is the one that burst on me a while ago. Now I know why...
The axle leak:
At least the Tundra is clean in the meantime
Decided I want to buy a car cover for the 60. Should have got one initially. The Geo has one because it fills with water otherwise. It stays clean under the cover and the sun stays off the paint. The 60 has definitely gotten worn from sitting outside. Nothing I can’t fix but it’s irritating. Need to keep the sun off of it. That’s not the only thing though, the water under it plays a role too. It’s always raining.
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I’ve got all the seal tools, fish scale and stuff for the axle rebuild. When’s the party?
- Thread starter
- #791
I’ll need to figure out when. I know I could get together with some experienced helpers and knock it out. But I’d like to take my time and clean everything and paint it. Along with welding the spring eyes on the front OME spring packs. New bushings probably. Etc.
Revealing my surprise. No one even tried to guess! Lol
Went with the CCOT bolt-in console. It truly was a bolt in affair. No trimming needed. I would have liked some directions but it was easy enough to figure out. This console was the most appealing to me in appearance. Don’t really know if I’ll move my radio or leave it in the dash. I’ll think more about it and update as needed. I’d like to drive this thing now, but I need to fix those oil leaks. Got the side cover gasket ready.
Until next time ladies and gentlemen
- Thread starter
- #793
Bought the rear window felts to match the front. Replaced inner and outer. Very happy with this change. My Texas truck had a surprising amount of rust in those old outer window felts. (Metal strip inside rusting away.) Plastic clips that hold them are a nice change. Going to re-tint the windows soon.
One of the inner felts was damaged in shipping. ToyotaPartsDeal is sending a replacement. Pretty nice of them.
I’m confused as to why the left and right outer felts are different part numbers. It’s the same thing right? Haha
One of the inner felts was damaged in shipping. ToyotaPartsDeal is sending a replacement. Pretty nice of them.
I’m confused as to why the left and right outer felts are different part numbers. It’s the same thing right? Haha
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
How do you like the new felts with the chrome delete?
- Thread starter
- #795
I like them. I wasn’t sure how the rears would fit. Because the chrome strip ran all the way under the fixed window. But I’m 100% happy. Hopefully my pictures show that pretty well. The factory rubber under the fixed window just laid down and rested on the body whereas before it rested on the chrome.
I think this is how the vehicle should have been sold. I like chrome but those things just cover up some great body lines. I’m having an internal debate about fully dechroming. The roof gutter chrome is falling off. But around the windows is okay. Decisions. Decisions.
- Thread starter
- #796
Did some tidying to the 60 two weekends ago. Installed the last felt that I had for the windows. This is the one that was damaged in shipping. Pretty crazy the difference in the new and old parts. Re-installed my subwoofer, secured the CB/AM/FM splitter, and 3M taped my vacuum gauge back in place.
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- Thread starter
- #797
Next was in the engine bay. I had a side cover gasket and a fan belt. Pulled the alternator off to gain access. Went to remove the side cover. It was LOOSE. Tightened the bolts and put everything back together. I'll hang on to the gasket lol.
Had a Gates belt on there, the difference between the two was kinda crazy. Toyota belt was wider with larger ribs. Forgot to compare the overall length. I think it was about the same. Reason for replacement was intermittent squealing. It still makes noise. Hopefully I just need to give it another tightening now that it has taken shape.
Last pic because I like it
Had a Gates belt on there, the difference between the two was kinda crazy. Toyota belt was wider with larger ribs. Forgot to compare the overall length. I think it was about the same. Reason for replacement was intermittent squealing. It still makes noise. Hopefully I just need to give it another tightening now that it has taken shape.
Last pic because I like it
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- Thread starter
- #798
Some of you may know that I lost my mind and moved to Illinois. Just kidding, wife's family is up here and my Dad actually has a pretty sweet spot in the UP of Michigan. Pretty big change, but everything is good. Don't worry friends, I have not, nor ever will drive my 60 when salt is on the roads. It's been in the garage since I moved in, about 5 months. I towed a 5x8 Uhaul trailer across the country. Had a rear tire blow out. Yes, my craigslist find 2012 manufacture date BFG M/T's. I bet if I had decent tires I would have made it without hiccup. No body damage to the 60, just need to straighten the mud flap that almost came off.
I've got a lot of things to do to the 60, but couldn't help checking in. Finally have something to report.
NEW TIRES!
BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 - 33x10.5x15 on 15x8 Eagle Alloy 058's (same wheels as before)
And the to do list that I have. I'm sure I'm forgetting some things. Also may have added to it since I took the pic.
I'll try to post some better pictures later, supposed to be nice today. Maybe I'll pull it out and wash it. Time depending.
I've got a lot of things to do to the 60, but couldn't help checking in. Finally have something to report.
NEW TIRES!
BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 - 33x10.5x15 on 15x8 Eagle Alloy 058's (same wheels as before)
And the to do list that I have. I'm sure I'm forgetting some things. Also may have added to it since I took the pic.
I'll try to post some better pictures later, supposed to be nice today. Maybe I'll pull it out and wash it. Time depending.
- Thread starter
- #799
Well I still haven't pulled it out of the garage. Smells like tire rubber in there. I kinda dig it. I bought a battery and put in the stainless tray today. Really nice product. I debated and debated about what battery to go with. I always rap on people who run smaller than stock batteries, well that was me. I had a Group 34 AGM in there from Sam's circa 2013.
I just went with a regular Group 27 from O'Reilly's. I bought the battery and then said, "no one sells a Group 27 AGM." He types on the computer "AGM27" and it comes up... Well I just found it on their website. Only 580 CCA versus the one I bought with 840 CCA. Wouldn't be best fit for a (car) starting battery.
With any project you find something else to do. I needed to clean up the wiring for my Blue Sea fuse panel, I found two wires that I didn't know where they went. I had connected them to the Blue Sea panel some time ago without even knowing what they were. Brother or Dad probably did it a while back. Turns out I had a power and ground wire running to my inclinometer. Who knew. In the process to find where those wires went I removed the radio and was reminded what it looks like back there... time to clean it up.
Factory radio wires from my research. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 1984 FJ60.
Blue-Yellow (L-Y) ---- Accessory Power
White-Black (W-B) -- Ground
White-Blue (W-L) ---- Left Speaker
Black (B) ------------- Common Ground
Red-Blue (R-L) ------ Right Speaker
I pulled out some wires that my Dad was using for a small inverter that was installed in my dash (previously disconnected at the battery). I'm not going to reinstall that ever. Maybe just put a cigarette lighter plug on it if needed. So now I want to reduce the wires as much as possible. The inclinometer has a constant power (from Blue Sea) and accessory power from a jumper on the fuse block. I would like to put the inclinometer and radio accessory power together on the same circuit. Possible to just splice them together on that radio circuit? Blue-Yellow chassis wire. Get rid of the jumper basically.
Then I'll need to get another source for constant power so I don't have another wire going through the firewall (along with the ground, which I'll ground behind the dash somewhere). All I will have going through will be the wiring for my Rigid LED spots. I will eventually sort out my Hella 500's I want to wire them in with the high beam circuit because, you guessed it, no additional wires through the firewall.
Oh and last thing I swear. I had my Blue Sea panel on a piece of ABS along with the breaker. I'm going to clean that up too. You'll see in the pics.
Sorry for a long post. It helps me figure out the plan. Hoping to get this done during the week and go to an event on Saturday. Hopefully I'll have the oldest Toyota there
A good idea poorly executed:
Worn out?
AHH
LOOK AT IT
That'll do.
Gotta make another post with more pics.
I just went with a regular Group 27 from O'Reilly's. I bought the battery and then said, "no one sells a Group 27 AGM." He types on the computer "AGM27" and it comes up... Well I just found it on their website. Only 580 CCA versus the one I bought with 840 CCA. Wouldn't be best fit for a (car) starting battery.
With any project you find something else to do. I needed to clean up the wiring for my Blue Sea fuse panel, I found two wires that I didn't know where they went. I had connected them to the Blue Sea panel some time ago without even knowing what they were. Brother or Dad probably did it a while back. Turns out I had a power and ground wire running to my inclinometer. Who knew. In the process to find where those wires went I removed the radio and was reminded what it looks like back there... time to clean it up.
Factory radio wires from my research. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 1984 FJ60.
Blue-Yellow (L-Y) ---- Accessory Power
White-Black (W-B) -- Ground
White-Blue (W-L) ---- Left Speaker
Black (B) ------------- Common Ground
Red-Blue (R-L) ------ Right Speaker
I pulled out some wires that my Dad was using for a small inverter that was installed in my dash (previously disconnected at the battery). I'm not going to reinstall that ever. Maybe just put a cigarette lighter plug on it if needed. So now I want to reduce the wires as much as possible. The inclinometer has a constant power (from Blue Sea) and accessory power from a jumper on the fuse block. I would like to put the inclinometer and radio accessory power together on the same circuit. Possible to just splice them together on that radio circuit? Blue-Yellow chassis wire. Get rid of the jumper basically.
Then I'll need to get another source for constant power so I don't have another wire going through the firewall (along with the ground, which I'll ground behind the dash somewhere). All I will have going through will be the wiring for my Rigid LED spots. I will eventually sort out my Hella 500's I want to wire them in with the high beam circuit because, you guessed it, no additional wires through the firewall.
Oh and last thing I swear. I had my Blue Sea panel on a piece of ABS along with the breaker. I'm going to clean that up too. You'll see in the pics.
Sorry for a long post. It helps me figure out the plan. Hoping to get this done during the week and go to an event on Saturday. Hopefully I'll have the oldest Toyota there
A good idea poorly executed:
Worn out?
AHH
LOOK AT IT
That'll do.
Gotta make another post with more pics.
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- Thread starter
- #800
So what I'm gonna do is 3M tape this to the fender. It's mounted like this because the cover comes off easier and as you'll see in the next photo makes a nice little route for the power wire. I'll use (EDIT) 4 gauge, got some terminals off Amazon along with a crimper. I'm excited to use that stuff. Note that the panel will sit higher, it's just resting on the inner fender.
Admire my artistry. Drew that on my iPhone.
Part of the factory radio harness. Funny that my older brother (now a PhD EE) wired this when he was in high school. You can see the three cut speaker wires. Accessory with a wire nut (red wire goes to my radio), and I have no idea whats up with the ground wire that has a splice with nothing spliced into it. The electrical tape bundles in the lower portion of the photo are part of the inclinometer wiring.
More to come this week
Admire my artistry. Drew that on my iPhone.
Part of the factory radio harness. Funny that my older brother (now a PhD EE) wired this when he was in high school. You can see the three cut speaker wires. Accessory with a wire nut (red wire goes to my radio), and I have no idea whats up with the ground wire that has a splice with nothing spliced into it. The electrical tape bundles in the lower portion of the photo are part of the inclinometer wiring.
More to come this week
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