Replacing a Master Cylinder Hard Line
- Thread starter FJ4013
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The big reservoir is usually the front brakes. Kits are cheap put one in now. You should look at shoes and drums too.
Engineer8000
SILVER Star
That proportioning valve probably stopped working years ago.
Soak fittings with Kroil for several days. Use the flair fitting wrenches. Copper Nickel solid lines kits are available - you can make them lines yourself - threads and vids are around. Braided stainless hose could work - it will have a softer pedal due to more flex than solid lines.
Earlier this year I put on a new clutch master and slave. It came with a longer braided stainless hose that replaced the OEM soft and hard line. I can't tell any difference even though the hose is like 3' longer than the stock 2 piece unit.
Earlier this year I put on a new clutch master and slave. It came with a longer braided stainless hose that replaced the OEM soft and hard line. I can't tell any difference even though the hose is like 3' longer than the stock 2 piece unit.
It was JoeTLC on ebay I think
Mine didn't come with the rod. Attach the hose to the slave before installing the slave then install the master and attach the hose.
Mine didn't come with the rod. Attach the hose to the slave before installing the slave then install the master and attach the hose.
Do not use flexible hose for the whole brake system. It will expand more than the hard lines and reduce overall hydraulic pressure in the system. You want to replace the hard line with hard line.
Front reservoir should go to the front brakes and rear (firewall side) to the rear brakes, but just trace/follow the brake lines under the truck and see for yourself.
I built my entire brake system with a flare kit and nickel copper alloy tubing. Super easy to bend and flare compared to steel.
I would just replace/rebuild the master at the same time. Since you have to drain (and later bleed) the brake system, now is a great time to baseline everything in the brake system, replace rubber lines, wheel cylinders, etc. as needed.
If you’re looking for pre bent hard lines, and replacement parts my usual “go to” vendors are:
Valley Hybrids
Cruiser Outfitters
Cruiser Corps
Cool Cruisers of Texas
I am almost positive I’ve seen hard lines on cruiser corps and CCOT’s sites…
Front reservoir should go to the front brakes and rear (firewall side) to the rear brakes, but just trace/follow the brake lines under the truck and see for yourself.
I built my entire brake system with a flare kit and nickel copper alloy tubing. Super easy to bend and flare compared to steel.
I would just replace/rebuild the master at the same time. Since you have to drain (and later bleed) the brake system, now is a great time to baseline everything in the brake system, replace rubber lines, wheel cylinders, etc. as needed.
If you’re looking for pre bent hard lines, and replacement parts my usual “go to” vendors are:
Valley Hybrids
Cruiser Outfitters
Cruiser Corps
Cool Cruisers of Texas
I am almost positive I’ve seen hard lines on cruiser corps and CCOT’s sites…
Not sure if Cruiser corps got better vendor but set I purchased years ago was junk. Ended up buying off someone who was building kits here on mud, he is no longer building them though.
I have no direct experience with anyones’s hard lines - I made my own. Out of curiosity, why were they junk? Just not bent in the right places?
Too short on a few pieces. Several angles wrong, to where I couldn’t make it work at all. Quality was sub par. Especially when compared to what I purchased off of rainman.
Agree, I purchased bender after that experience.
Hopefully someone else had better at and they are more functional now.
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- Thread starter
- #16
Any idea where I can find that one line? I've not had any luck locating one.
I dont think you're going to find a stk replacement or a 40 year old stk line that's in good shape. If Mark can't help ya, you might get a hold of @cruisermatt. I know he's made replacement lines for other folks on this site. I've personally not done any business with him, but he is very supportive on this site. The other alternative would be to make your own. Ni-copp line is easy to work with. Get a double flare tool and some metric fittings and get to work. I make my own lines and i always have a coil of ni-copp hanging on a hook.
^^^ Ni-Copp/Cunifer is great stuff. So easy to work with even I can do it. I have a write-up on making brake lines here somewhere. I probably made it harder than I needed to at the time but those lines have held up for 10 years now…
+1 to a roll of nickel-copper line, a flaring tool, and a simple bender. The more elaborate benders and flare tools are nice for big jobs, but the little ones actually work well for these small lines:
www.summitracing.com
Performance Tool W704C Performance Tool Tubing Benders | Summit Racing
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- Thread starter
- #20
Who is "Mark"? I'll follow up with whomever you suggest.