Replacement 1GR for my 2007 FJC

[BMThiker]

This thread will document my engine replacement journey. The convo started in another thread, so I'll copy those posts here for clarity.

Hit a milestone on my commute home yesterday.

WOW! That's awesome! How about a recap of the past 350k miles? What needed to be replaced due to age? What failed miserably? What surprises you that it’s made it this far with no signs of failing? And any other info you feel like sharing?

I'm on the precipice of repairing/replacing the engine. I have been nursing an oil leak on the front of the engine, likely front main seal. It's been slowly eating coolant with no obvious escape evidence. It needs a timing service, I found plastic guide pieces in the oil pan last year. So I've been doing mental math on rebuilding versus engine swap. Right now the scale leans towards buying a junkyard engine and rebuilding as needed (heads, timing, seals).

My biggest repair in the last 19+ years was the A750F a couple years ago. I replaced the radiator just before that. There are some other things I've fixed that are documented in this tech section.

I'll start a new thread to document the process, but found an engine out of FL with 107K on it. It arrives at the end of the week. Observation #1: junk yards add core charges for the block now? I never knew. They also offer parts & labor warranties?! I went for the lowest cost option available which was no added warranty, it comes with a 6mo basic warranty. I'm going to eat the core charge to have spares on hand and save packing a shipping a block. My plan is to give it a thorough evaluation, then likely go ahead and rebuild heads, timing, water pump. So any kind of warranty seemed kind of unnecessary. I'm at $5,150 OTD.

5150 is better than a new truck payment!! But I do wonder about something. The YouTube channel car care guy has a video on the 5.7 blowing a head gasket, in that video he argues that new engines normally cannot be rebuilt (machined) due to their casting design. He argued even head machining is a problem. Just something to think about. Not being negative. Just provoking thought.

I've wavered back and forth on whether to just stab the new engine in and run it for another 250K I'll save judgement until it gets a thorough inspection upon arrival. I have no record of previous maintenance, so prepared mentally for anything.

 

[BMThiker]

Arrived yesterday and I was sent these pics. No bueno...gonna do a full assessment tomorrow morning and file for reimbursement of what's needed to make it right. Most obvious is air intake, water pump and tensioner pulley assembly. Was told that part of the radiator was still attached to a coolant hose like they snatched this out with a backhoe!

 

[BMThiker]

Got it transferred to a stand. Will need new intake manifold, tensioner assembly, but mostly looks solid. Not as bad as I was picturing in my mind. Whoever pulled it from the truck did a sloppy job and broke the alternator off (bending a bolt), smashed the radiator cap/neck with a BFH to free the hose from the radiator instead of just undoing the hose clamp. Then they creased the top of the oil filter and oil filler cap. Couple of small wires snipped that I think went to the PS pump and the AC compressor, but the wiring harness is surprisingly intact. Checked the timing chain inspection plate and looks good in there.

The broken tensioner pulley assembly.

 

[BMThiker]

Went through my stash of spare parts yesterday and I have an (intake) air surge tank (17109-31012) as well as the tensioner pulley bracket assembly (16620-31012). I bought the pulley assembly a few years ago to replace a squeaky pulley, but then discovered that I would need to remove the AC compressor to get to all those bolts. I ended up just removing the pulley from the new assembly and bolting it onto my existing bracket. Not sure why Teq doesn't sell this pulley separately. I got the extra air intake from ACC after they did another customer's supercharger swap years ago. I've kept it bagged and boxed up since then.

My rebuild parts list so far:

1. Idler pulley No. 1, 16603-31040
2. Idler pulley No. 2, 16604-31010 x2
3. Water pump assembly, 16100-39405
4. Fan clutch coupling, 16210-31020
5. Head gaskets, 11115-31031 & 11116-31011
6. Cylinder head bolts?
7. Air surge tank to intake gasket, 17176-31010
8. Air intake to head gaskets, 17177-31010 & 17178-31010
9. Valve cover gaskets, 11213-31030 & 11214-31010
10. Rear main seal, 90311-99010
11. Front oil seal for timing case, 90311-42037
12. Exhaust manifold gaskets, 17173-31010 (x2)
13. Vacuum lines, 90999-92002 (length is cut for 3-4 runs on intake)
14. Vent hoses, 12261-31030 & 12262-31030
15. Vent valve, 12204-31030
16. Vapor fuel hose, 23826-31010
17. Vacuum valve switch, 25860-31010
18. Oil filler cap, 12180-28021

I'm not sure of the condition of this electrical plug that seems to be some kind of oil temp/pressure sensor. It's cracked and I've not been able to track it down on Toyodiy.

 

[fjc-man]

Your last item is the crank position sensor. Chain related items based on inspection?

 

[BMThiker]

Thank you, confirmed. 90919-05057

 

[svsisu]

@BMThiker any chance you know the thread size/pitch of the head bolts for this engine? I've found conflicting information on the long bolts (143 mm) and would like to know if they are M11x1.25 or M11x1.5.

Thanks

 

[BMThiker]

@BMThiker any chance you know the thread size/pitch of the head bolts for this engine? I've found conflicting information on the long bolts (143 mm) and would like to know if they are M11x1.25 or M11x1.5.

Thanks

No, I haven't dug into it yet. New bolts are on my list but it looks like there are a couple different sizes and my digging into part numbers is inconclusive at this point.

 

[svsisu]

No, I haven't dug into it yet. New bolts are on my list but it looks like there are a couple different sizes and my digging into part numbers is inconclusive at this point.

Well, when you get there I would sure like to know if they are 1.5 vs 1.25 (like nearly every other toyota bolt). Thanks!

 

[fjc-man]

The old bolt part number 90910-02162 in the photograph on the Partsouq site looks to be a 1.5mm thread pitch. The dealers in the US say the part number is now 90910-A2006.

 

[BMThiker]

6 hours at the garage yesterday to tear down the donor engine. Scoped the bores and they look fine for a 100K motor. Decision is made, not going to pull the heads. Sorry for the guys above wanting to know thread pitch, but not un-torquing any of these bolts. If my parts order still has the bolts in it, I can check. but I don't have a full list of what was ordered right now. I gave them a list and they pulled previous work orders from other 1GR customer builds to develop a more complete list. Will post up once I have a copy.

Coil packs and plugs were factory original. The tech at ACC showed me where the ends of the plugs have a laser etching to indicate original. The plugs looked great and the tech said I could probably still run them - but I won't obviously. Valve covers appeared to have never been removed and the gaskets were brittle.

Pulled surge tank and air intake manifold, cleaned up the alum intake from the buildup in it. Will get new gaskets between it and the heads. I took this pic before realizing that I need to cover up all these openings and clean the debris from the intake and valley. Applied some engine degreaser, let it soak, then "rinsed" with brake cleaner. Wiped away the remains with shop towel. Once it came off it went into the parts cleaner and scrubbed with brass & plastic tooth brushes. 5 of the 6 injectors looked fine. Driver side front (cyl2) had a little discoloration at the filter tip. I'm sending them to a local injector specialist for reman and testing.

Water pump showed signs of weeping at the input bearing. But it is getting replaced. Junkyard really banged up the fan clutch assembly and when I went to remove the water pump the pulley assembly was pushed into the water pump housing. The 4 studs were pushed into the tailhousing.

Upper oil pan bolt pattern. The 2 smaller bolts are up behind the flywheel. Nothing surprising found in the oil pans!

Timing cover off and all looks pretty good, but chains will be replaced. We'll inspect the guides a bit closer, but will be replacing all the wearable parts.

Bottom end looks great too

All the parts organized and bolts/nuts bagged/tagged.

Next up will be to clean up these removed pieces. I want to powder coat the valve covers. Also need to remove the fly wheel so I can replace the rear main seal. The lower block also has a lot of surface oxidation (Florida truck), so I want to clean that up as well.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I am curious why you didn't do a new block and heads.
Are you planning on sleeving the cylinders for a BC stroker kit or something like that?

 

[1911]

I want to powder coat the valve covers. …. The lower block also has a lot of surface oxidation (Florida truck), so I want to clean that up as well.

You should totally do a “big gay” 1GR build, and powder coat all the engine bits in different rainbow colors!

 

[gnob]

so....make sure your cam reluctor rings are the same.

 

[BMThiker]

I am curious why you didn't do a new block and heads.
Are you planning on sleeving the cylinders for a BC stroker kit or something like that?

New shortblock and heads from Toyota was a lot more expensive option. And off the shelf reman engines are like playing the lottery. No head work in the plans.

 

[BMThiker]

You should totally do a “big gay” 1GR build, and powder coat all the engine bits in different rainbow colors!

For those that don't know their MUD lore:

Thread 'The Big Gay 2F Build'

Jul 24, 2007

Gehn will probably not like this idea but hey no one ever said I wasn't crazy.

I purchased the 2f out of Gehns 60 he just drove from out west. As I was towing it home last night I was trying to figure out what color to paint it. Blue or red or maybe black. TheN I got a crazy idea. I'm going to go for the gay look. Thats right. Plan on painting every piece of it a different color. So when someone asks me if that thing has a v-8 I can just say "nah, It's just a big gay 2f") Pics and the rebuild to follow.


+ since I plan on keeping it a Clemson color the big gay engine...

• Trollhole
• Replies: 173
• Forum: SC- Upstate Cruisers

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Not a lot of pics left on that thread, so I'll drop this one. No pic of the engine bay but that Big Gay 2F had some chutzpah!

 

[BMThiker]

Found one!

 

[BMThiker]

4 hours of cleaning up valve covers, oil filter cup, oil filler neck, timing cover, upper oil pan and lower oil pan. I was gloved up but still managed to get kersone burns on my forearms. Aloe and Eucerin applied
Kinda before and after shots. The oxidation is really hard to remove by hand. Not sure I want to sandblast these parts though.

 

[gnob]

cleaning that oxide is a slippery slope

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Paint or powder coat?
My trucks never been north of Alabama Tenn boarder and still has that type of corrosion from the years passing. Always annoys me things don’t stay perfect