Repaint question... prep

Discussion in 'Paint and Body' started by gregnash, Aug 9, 2018.

  1. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

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    So going to be repainting the exterior of my FJ60 in the next month hopefully. I have been in the process of replacing all rusted out EXTERIOR metal and am down to one last location before I do the swap (well and swapping one more door out).

    Question is....
    At this point when I am ready to prep for paint, should I;
    A.) just rough surface of all currently painted/primed surfaces and then spray the single-stage over it, or
    B.) rough all surfaces, lay down a layer of new primer over all surfaces and then spray single-stage?

    If I go with option B.) I take that as meaning that I should really wetsand the primed surface down with 320grit to come up with a smooth surface, then proceed to the single-stage. I do not plan to take anything down to bare metal other than those locations needed to correct/repair rust.

    This will be my first go at auto painting and will be an adventure/experiment.
     
  2. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

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    Note I will be doing this in my garage/driveway so not expecting a show car finish. This is why I am going with a single-stage enamel (NASON) paint that is mainly meant for farm implements. I have been debating back and forth on whether there truly is a benefit to priming the entire vehicle and the only thing I can come up with is that I would then have a uniform coat under the vehicles main paint color. If that is the case I am also thinking of investing in a HF oscillating orbital compressor fed sander (about $40 currently) instead of using my small handheld electrical orbital sander.

    This will be painted with the HF Purple gun, that I have watched all the videos on and cleaned up as most everyone has complained/stated is the main problem with the gun. It comes with a 1.4mm tip so that should be good for thinned primer and the base coat as well.
     
  3. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    If you welded in new steel, you’re going to want to clean and rough it up and apply an epoxy primer. If you put all that work into the sheet metal, you’re probably going to also need some filler to smooth things out. Then apply a high build surfacer primer and block smooth.
     
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  4. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

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    So basically you are saying that at that point it is worthwhile to prime the entire vehicle.
     
  5. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    Yeah, unless it’s a trail rig, I wouldn’t bother painting a car without prepping, body working, and blocking the whole thing.
     
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  6. PAToyota

    PAToyota Keystone Cruisers SILVER Star

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    A paintjob is only as good as the prep work. If you've gone to all the time and trouble to take out the rust, you should do a proper prep so that rust doesn't come back.
     
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  7. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

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    Ok thanks for confirming guys. Now to pick up a little HF DA sander for the compressor so I can hit everything easily.
    Was planning on just using my HF Purple gun for primer and paint but seems like I may have to rethink that seeing at it only has a 1.4mm tip. Debating if I want to spend the money on a nicer set or see if I can borrow a primer gun from someone. Have also seen vids of people modding the HF Purple gun to shoot primer better.
     
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