Repaint question... prep

gregnash

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So going to be repainting the exterior of my FJ60 in the next month hopefully. I have been in the process of replacing all rusted out EXTERIOR metal and am down to one last location before I do the swap (well and swapping one more door out).

Question is....
At this point when I am ready to prep for paint, should I;
A.) just rough surface of all currently painted/primed surfaces and then spray the single-stage over it, or
B.) rough all surfaces, lay down a layer of new primer over all surfaces and then spray single-stage?

If I go with option B.) I take that as meaning that I should really wetsand the primed surface down with 320grit to come up with a smooth surface, then proceed to the single-stage. I do not plan to take anything down to bare metal other than those locations needed to correct/repair rust.

This will be my first go at auto painting and will be an adventure/experiment.
 

gregnash

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Note I will be doing this in my garage/driveway so not expecting a show car finish. This is why I am going with a single-stage enamel (NASON) paint that is mainly meant for farm implements. I have been debating back and forth on whether there truly is a benefit to priming the entire vehicle and the only thing I can come up with is that I would then have a uniform coat under the vehicles main paint color. If that is the case I am also thinking of investing in a HF oscillating orbital compressor fed sander (about $40 currently) instead of using my small handheld electrical orbital sander.

This will be painted with the HF Purple gun, that I have watched all the videos on and cleaned up as most everyone has complained/stated is the main problem with the gun. It comes with a 1.4mm tip so that should be good for thinned primer and the base coat as well.
 

Splangy

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If you welded in new steel, you’re going to want to clean and rough it up and apply an epoxy primer. If you put all that work into the sheet metal, you’re probably going to also need some filler to smooth things out. Then apply a high build surfacer primer and block smooth.
 

gregnash

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If you welded in new steel, you’re going to want to clean and rough it up and apply an epoxy primer. If you put all that work into the sheet metal, you’re probably going to also need some filler to smooth things out. Then apply a high build surfacer primer and block smooth.
So basically you are saying that at that point it is worthwhile to prime the entire vehicle.
 

PAToyota

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A paintjob is only as good as the prep work. If you've gone to all the time and trouble to take out the rust, you should do a proper prep so that rust doesn't come back.
 

gregnash

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Ok thanks for confirming guys. Now to pick up a little HF DA sander for the compressor so I can hit everything easily.
Was planning on just using my HF Purple gun for primer and paint but seems like I may have to rethink that seeing at it only has a 1.4mm tip. Debating if I want to spend the money on a nicer set or see if I can borrow a primer gun from someone. Have also seen vids of people modding the HF Purple gun to shoot primer better.
 

gregnash

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Spent last week working on the rear corner that I had replaced over the last year or so and trying my hand at body filler to fix some of the cavities due to puckered metal or warpage. Didn't come out too bad and learned a few things, main thing was that using a small, electric orbital sander IS NOT the way to go. Seemed to take forever so yesterday I went and picked up that HF DA sander and how that makes quick work of everything.

Also decided to pull out the HF Purple gun and try it with some primer I had in the garage. Definitely did not like the straight primer but once I thinned it a bit with some lacquer thinner it did better. The 1.4mm tip on the purple gun clogged easily so after I was all said and done (only doing a small portion to test) I modded like the videos and will try that later this week/weekend. Going to go talk with the local paint supply place this week to see how much primer I would need for the entire truck and then same for paint. Have decided that I am going to go with a single-stage, non-metallic version of the TOYOTA Magnetic Gray (1g3 I believe) that is the darker gray for the Tundra/Tacoma/4Runner/Sequoia. Also like the PreDawn Gray Mica but think that has a bit more of a metallic in it than the Magnetic Gray.
 

rghouse

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Hey, another solid gray re-paint, nice! I am going with Audi "nardo gray" for my 80 series. It is solid, not sparkly, and is lighter in color than the base for the metallic gray common on 80s. I am also going with a 1 part aircraft paint, supposedly super durable. $400 shipped for 1 gallon kit (there is a minimum charge if less than 4 gallons).

Builds - Project 'Fresh Start' RestoMod

^^ he has lots of pics of this color (on a 40 series). The sample is pretty light in the sun and pretty dark in the shade, I really like it.
 

gregnash

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Nice dude!! Yeah I was looking at the Audi gray and really liked it but figured I would go with something that is more Toyota OEM. Crappy part is the PO did a bad respray from the original 8B4 Midnight Metallic to some random gray color (did with doors closed. So I am contemplating doing the respray and hitting the door jambs as well. Seeing as I have a completely different colored lower tailgate (standard FJ60 beige) I am going to have to pull that to spray it to match, so this is kinda becoming a "while your in there" scenario"... LOL.

You know what... looking at his build, that Nardo Gray actually looks like a slightly darker version of Toyota's new Cement Gray. Same color depth with lack of metallic. That aerospace paint is sick stuff but WAAAAAYYYYY too rich for my blood. Hell I am having a hard time paying the $60/gallon for the Nason Farm implement paint that my local shop can pretty much color match to whatever I want.
 
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rghouse

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Ya, I am going with a similar color to stock so I dont have to do door jambs, but now i'm thinking about doing the whole thing--save for under the hood. we'll see. Our spare car is a ford f-250 V10 so I want be able to realistically commute in that too long while im dinking around with the cruiser.

I have a post going entitled "cement gray 80" because that is actually the color I was going after before I landed on the Nardo. There are some other gray ideas to look at in the post. I haven't sprung for the aircraft paint yet but I think it is worth it to save up, still so much cheaper than a body shop and hell I plan on keeping the 80 for a long time. If I had a garage to park it in I would probably go for cheaper stuff.
 

gregnash

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Ya, I am going with a similar color to stock so I dont have to do door jambs, but now i'm thinking about doing the whole thing--save for under the hood. we'll see. Our spare car is a ford f-250 V10 so I want be able to realistically commute in that too long while im dinking around with the cruiser.

I have a post going entitled "cement gray 80" because that is actually the color I was going after before I landed on the Nardo. There are some other gray ideas to look at in the post. I haven't sprung for the aircraft paint yet but I think it is worth it to save up, still so much cheaper than a body shop and hell I plan on keeping the 80 for a long time. If I had a garage to park it in I would probably go for cheaper stuff.
Added link to your post.
Yeah, you and I are pretty much in the same boat. While I agree that the springing for the extra protection of the aircraft paint would be nice, my first question would be "What special things/tools/etc. are needed to spray that paint?" Remember, not all paints play well with your standard, run of the mill HVLP gun (for instance the purple HF gun does not like latex paints from everything I have read).
 

gregnash

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Here is the link to the paint they spec'd for the cruiser:

aerospace paint info
Yeah seems pretty standard other than the fact that they want you to wipe down the surface with MEK. If you haven't worked with that stuff before, it is SUPER NASTY stuff. Long time ago when I worked at a truck accessories shop, we used that to prep metal for spray in bedliners. You could literally put a small splash on a cloth and leave it on CURED bedliner and it would soften it to the point that you could wipe it off the surface within minutes. When handling, absolutely wear a painting mask with particulate filters, open air location and wear THICK gloves. This is not stuff to mess around with.
 

rghouse

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what primer are you going with? local shop wants $100 for a gallon kit...seems high

Get anything done last weekend?
 

gregnash

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what primer are you going with? local shop wants $100 for a gallon kit...seems high

Get anything done last weekend?
Don't remember brand off the top of my head. Whatever they sell off their shelf, but sounds about right if you think that I paid $55 for quart of prime plus hardner and activator. But really, talking with the shop guy, if your current paint is in good condition you should not need to prime over everything unless you are using a completely different color. Sticking with grays here so I should be good.

Look at my build thread (in sig), got some stuff done last weekend and then started up again last night. Hoping to be priming everything that needs it this weekend. Got small chips down to metal or primer all over the hood lip and then other small areas I want to take care of as well. So when I go to prime I will be hitting everything that needs it.
 

Splangy

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Yeah seems pretty standard other than the fact that they want you to wipe down the surface with MEK. If you haven't worked with that stuff before, it is SUPER NASTY stuff. Long time ago when I worked at a truck accessories shop, we used that to prep metal for spray in bedliners. You could literally put a small splash on a cloth and leave it on CURED bedliner and it would soften it to the point that you could wipe it off the surface within minutes. When handling, absolutely wear a painting mask with particulate filters, open air location and wear THICK gloves. This is not stuff to mess around with.
Not unusual at all for a commercial/industrial coating manufacturer to specify MEK for solvent washing prior to blasting or coating application. In fact, it’s the industry standard.
 

gregnash

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Not unusual at all for a commercial/industrial coating manufacturer to specify MEK for solvent washing prior to blasting or coating application. In fact, it’s the industry standard.
Interesting... I thought it might be a given for heavier materials like the spray in bedliners but for paint it just seemed overkill. Like I said, it is NASTY stuff. Definitely use in a well ventilated area with plenty of protection..

As for getting work done, well getting there as I get time. Weekends have had other obligations so I am throwing down welds and working body panels as I get time/availability. Threw on the first bit of primer last night on the drivers side rear quarter where I had previously done some work.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

What it was covering up that had only been rattle canned over...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
IMG_2638 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
IMG_2645 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
 
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