Red Bomb gets 2fe, need a few answers (1 Viewer)

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Davis County, UT
Planning for my 2fe right now, yes i've spent a lot of time with the search and found incredibly valuable information, i just need some clarification and opinion. i have an 84 fj60 in a smog area, ready to buy a tip-top shape and complete (minus harness and maybe ecu) 3fe and exhaust. first questions:

1) i already have a good unused HG for a 2f, this should work, right?
2) everything from the muffler to the end of my 2f exhaust is new, will i be able to mate it to the 62 exhaust fairly easily? (is the routing identical after the Y?)
3) my idea is an external pump with 60 tank, good or bad idea? recommended pumps?
4) what to do with 2f pump, just use a block off plate i assume?
5) harnesses

  1. i will need a cowel and engine harness, and '88 differs from '89 and '90, correct?
  2. am i going to need to tear the dash apart and switch out harnesses and such?
  3. can i go with the 60's fuse box?
  4. how much is a new harness recommended over a used?
6) i have done 2 HG jobs on a 2f before and am familiar with the job. that said, what's my time frame?
7) what is involved with the plumming for the PCV and heating
8) many people mill the head and block. if neither are warped, i won't be doing that unless mud thinks i should. my compression is good for me.
9) delta cam. i've heard a lot of rave about this, but my block had an excellent rebuild not too long ago and i don't plan on diving in there.
10) speed sensor...what does that mean to this conversion?
11) the 3fe distributor is a bolt on, correct? do spark plugs differ between 60 and 62?
12) am i correct that either 60 or 62 pushrods and valve trains will work so long as they're from the same engine type? i'm probable going to use the 60's.

i think thats all the questions i have, thank you for reading and helping out, i wouldn't have the cruiser still without mud.
Drew
 
Subscribed. I'm looking into this route as well. Good questions.

I will answer what I can with what I've found.

3FE exhaust manifold would need a custom down pipe to mate to your current exhaust.

I've seen external pumps. Looks like a good option to me.

Fuel pump block off plate on 2F block is a must.

The harnesses are different between 88 an 89-90. Something about the 88 having 2 connectors for 7 wires (5 and 2) while the later harnesses have one connector for 7 wires.

I found this PDF very informative:

http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/3FEconversion.pdf
 
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Can't comment on some since I did mine in a 62... might be helping do one in a 60 soon and hope to swap a 2/3FE into a 55 soon as well, so I'm learning from this too.

Planning for my 2fe right now, yes i've spent a lot of time with the search and found incredibly valuable information, i just need some clarification and opinion. i have an 84 fj60 in a smog area, ready to buy a tip-top shape and complete (minus harness and maybe ecu) 3fe and exhaust. first questions:

1) i already have a good unused HG for a 2f, this should work, right? Not sure, but don't see why not.
2) everything from the muffler to the end of my 2f exhaust is new, will i be able to mate it to the 62 exhaust fairly easily? (is the routing identical after the Y?)
Stock a 62 has one downpipe inside the framerail, one outside. easiest route would be to wye them together post O2 sensor, pre-cat I would think, then mate with what you have
.
3) my idea is an external pump with 60 tank, good or bad idea? recommended pumps?
Not sure, perhaps some ideas in Pappy's thread, or MattMcInnes's?
4) what to do with 2f pump, just use a block off plate i assume?
The 3FE has a plate you can steal and use.
5) harnesses

  1. i will need a cowel and engine harness, and '88 differs from '89 and '90, correct?
  2. am i going to need to tear the dash apart and switch out harnesses and such?
  3. can i go with the 60's fuse box?
  4. how much is a new harness recommended over a used?
6) i have done 2 HG jobs on a 2f before and am familiar with the job. that said, what's my time frame?
7) what is involved with the plumming for the PCV and heating
Your choice for PVC, I went with 2F valve in sidecover and used a 2F valve cover... From what I've seen, 2Fs don't get sludge like 3FEs do, so I wonder if it is related to the PVC layout....
8) many people mill the head and block. if neither are warped, i won't be doing that unless mud thinks i should. my compression is good for me.
I believe you get a bit of a bump with a "stock" bolt up. Combined with a stock camshaft you should be fine. If you want to do either camshaft or milling, I would do both in concert.
9) delta cam. i've heard a lot of rave about this, but my block had an excellent rebuild not too long ago and i don't plan on diving in there.
10) speed sensor...what does that mean to this conversion?
11) the 3fe distributor is a bolt on, correct? do spark plugs differ between 60 and 62?
Bolt in, yes, I assume plugs are the same.
12) am i correct that either 60 or 62 pushrods and valve trains will work so long as they're from the same engine type? i'm probable going to use the 60's. 2F pushrods (3FE will be too short). The rocker assembly must match the valves used, so stick with 3FE...

i think thats all the questions i have, thank you for reading and helping out, i wouldn't have the cruiser still without mud.
Drew
 
3FE exhaust manifold would need a custom down pipe to mate to your current exhaust.
The harnesses are different between 88 an 89-90. Something about the 88 having 2 connectors for 7 wires (5 and 2) while the later harnesses have one connector for 7 wires.

I found this PDF very informative:

http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/3FEconversion.pdf
i came across that as well, very informative but i can't tell what things are and aren't applicable, it being a 40.
i will have the full exhaust setup from a 62, and both it and my current exhaust are in good condition, so i don't care what stays or goes except that i just replaced the muffler and tail pipe less than half a year ago and want to keep it. i think it would be easier to have 3fe exhaust mate with the 2f exhaust at the muffler. i just need to know that the 62's exhaust routes the same as the 60's somewhere after the cats.
 
I ended up buying all of Bob's stuff after he sold his 60. It seems like you only need to havest the EFI items out of the harness for the 60. You end up with your original harness and a "EFI" harness. The reason I have not pushed forward with mine besides time, (3 kids and the wife that regards LC as a swear word.....) is the EFI harness.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/388123-bob-s-2fe-build.html
 
awesome responses guys, thanks. can someone tell me what makes the harness so difficult? to me it seems like 99% of the harness is going to be independent of the 60's and plug the engine into the ecu, and once the engine and exhaust is put together the only things that aren't plug and play are gauges, ignition, and a few others.
 
Good answers by all. My take on the install.

1) i already have a good unused HG for a 2f, this should work, right?
2) everything from the muffler to the end of my 2f exhaust is new, will i be able to mate it to the 62 exhaust fairly easily? (is the routing identical after the Y?) Routing is not the same as mentioned. No reason why it can't be.
3) my idea is an external pump with 60 tank, good or bad idea? recommended pumps? If it were me I would bust a gut finding an FJ62 tank.
4) what to do with 2f pump, just use a block off plate i assume? If you can't find a 3FE block off plate you can make one easily from 1/8" steel. Stupid easy using the gasket as a template.
5) harnesses

  1. i will need a cowl and engine harness, and '88 differs from '89 and '90, correct? Correct. As long as the two match you are fine. Heck, even if they don't match it can be fixed.
  2. am i going to need to tear the dash apart and switch out harnesses and such? Not necessary. Just make the engine stand alone. You can mate the necessary connection to what you already have (oil sender, temp sender, etc).
  3. can i go with the 60's fuse box? Yes, but. I would add accessory fuses for the two you need keeping the engine stand alone.
  4. how much is a new harness recommended over a used? Depends on the condition of your boneyard harness. The 89/90 engine harness was still available from Toyota a few years ago. Better get a crow bar in your wallet, though.
6) i have done 2 HG jobs on a 2f before and am familiar with the job. that said, what's my time frame? Took me six months.
7) what is involved with the plumming for the PCV and heating. Way easy if you use the 3FE PCV. Valve on the rocker arm cover, up to the manifold.
8) many people mill the head and block. if neither are warped, i won't be doing that unless mud thinks i should. my compression is good for me. The 3FE head on a 2F block will give you about 9:1 compression.
9) delta cam. i've heard a lot of rave about this, but my block had an excellent rebuild not too long ago and i don't plan on diving in there.
10) speed sensor...what does that mean to this conversion? In theory the ECU needs the speed sensor signal. Not a big deal. FJ60s have the necessary speed sensor already built into the speedometer.
11) the 3fe distributor is a bolt on, correct? do spark plugs differ between 60 and 62? Dizzy, yes. The plugs are different heat ranges 2F and 3FE. I was having issues with the 3FE plugs so I'm currently running 2F. I don't have enough miles on them yet to tell you if they look better or not.
12) am i correct that either 60 or 62 pushrods and valve trains will work so long as they're from the same engine type? i'm probable going to use the 60's. You need to use the longer 2F push rods. Keep everything on the 3FE head ... though as I recall the rocker assy is the same 2F and 3FE.

i think thats all the questions i have, thank you for reading and helping out, i wouldn't have the cruiser still without mud.
Drew

awesome responses guys, thanks. can someone tell me what makes the harness so difficult? to me it seems like 99% of the harness is going to be independent of the 60's and plug the engine into the ecu, and once the engine and exhaust is put together the only things that aren't plug and play are gauges, ignition, and a few others.

The harness is not that hard. The engine harness is used with no modification. The cowl harness needs to be teased down to the efi bits. It takes time, but not hard.
 
It seems like you only need to havest the EFI items out of the harness for the 60. You end up with your original harness and a "EFI" harness.

The engine harness is used with no modification. The cowl harness needs to be teased down to the efi bits. It takes time, but not hard.

I really, really don't want to tear into the dash to install a cowl harness. what kind of:banana:are we looking at here? how much interaction will there be between the EFI harness and the rest of my 60?
 
What kind of:banana:are we looking at here?

:banana: It takes me a couple of hours while watching TV. Just label all the EFI bits before you start and go slow. Tedious. Not hard. Use small zip ties to keep things from getting tangled as you work.


How much interaction will there be between the EFI harness and the rest of my 60?

EFI fuse, hot. Use add on fuse block, or inline fuse.
Ignition fuse, switched. Use add on fuse block or inline fuse.

Bits that need to be spliced in, or maybe even use existing.

  • Speed sensor, located on speedo in dash. Or use stand alone 4-pulse reed switch on TC.
  • 4WD switch. Run to TC and splice. Or not use?
  • Brake light switch. Probably easiest to run to switch under dash. Or not use?
  • A/C. Splice under dash, or at compressor. Or just not use?
  • Check engine light. Will need to fab this one.
  • Tachometer.
  • Water temperature gauge, use existing?

None of this is hard. Don't over analyze.
 
getting somewhere

ok! I promise i didn't abandon the project, i've been waiting for a weekend to pick up the 3fe. got hold of a great engine from Alaska60's cool new shop (Thanks tom!), and its now in my garage waiting in line behind the bumper for the 80 :clap: pics to follow.
 
here it is

thanks to max powerzz and alaska 60 for the 3fe, and to my surprise, transmission. 170k and very strong.
1 and 2: just because
3: after hauling it 60 miles, with 1 turn and maybe 2 miles left, the engine (which is strapped) falls over. :bang: damage isn't terrible, but i lost the EGR valve. the egr valve on my 2f is pretty much new, i wonder if i can use it??
IMG_0071.jpg
IMG_0072.jpg
IMG_0073.jpg
 
1: exhaust came with the deal as well as smog and air cleaner stuff...is this all i need for the project (minus ecu and harness) in an emissions-tested area?
2:found this on the driveway. anybody know what it is?
3: to scale
IMG_0074.jpg
IMG_0075.jpg
IMG_0076.jpg
 
It may be an rubber isolator for the silencer, the can with the tube.
Thanks, could you tell me what in the world the silencer is? Appearantly there's more to the 3fe then I thought.
 
It's a rubber isolator.
 
thanks, got it figured out
 
Ill trade you the starter off the 3f for a fj62 fuel tank with working pump.


I forgot to take it off. I do have a fj62 tank for you though..if you want or need it.
Let me know.
 
I do have a fj62 tank for you though..if you want or need it.
Let me know.

Is this an original tank or a recall? we were planning on using an external pump with our tank to avoid having to replace the dreaded internal pump.
 
does anybody know if an 80's 3fe wiring harness will work without much modification for this project? i'm thinking no, but...
 
I would strongly suggest sourcing all the parts you can from the same vintage of 3FE.
 

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