Rear Window wiring question (1 Viewer)

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Right, like not wanting to drive that current through the switch. Crispy contacts...

Please look at the schematic you posted and help me understand how that relay will prevent "Crispy switch contacts"
fj55-rear-window-wiring-diagram-jpg.363148
 
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Yeah it looks like both switches are powered by the relay circuit so nothing really gets turned off. If it got turned off with the key then the rear window could only be activated with the key on.
 
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Yeah it looks like both switches are powered by the relay circuit so nothing really gets turned off. If it got turned off with the key then the rear window could only be activated with the key on.





Like I’ve been saying, it appears that Toyota added a relay to lockout one of the rear window switches unless the key is in the ignition and turned on.

Both the Gary and Haynes schematics show a relay before the switch so it’s doing nothing to change switching current at the switch itself, the difference between the two is the Haynes shows the relay interrupting only one of the two switches and the Gary shows interrupting both. Not sure why you would want to carry two sets of keys to use the tailgate switch so I’m assuming I’m missing something on Gary’s or there is a mistake in this area.
 
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At the risk of sounding like an armchair internet prick I’ll try one more time to post accurate information about the fj55 rear window relay that appears in my Haynes manual in the fj55’s after 1972.

This is the 1976 schematic page with the relay.

Relay.jpg


If you look at the tailgate relay it is powered from circuit breaker but it is ENERGIZED by the “Turn Fuse 15A” and that fuse is energized when the ignition switch is in the “IG” position, that relay is interrupting the power to the “Tailgate Remote Control Switch” that I’m assuming is the dash switch “ONLY”. If you follow the path the “Tailgate Gate Control Switch” is powered by the same circuit breaker all the time.

The relay is only to isolate the rear window switching current from the ignition switch via the 15A turn fuse circuit.

If we can get a few guys to test this theory and go press their rear window switch on the dash without the key in the ignition and let us know if the window works then we can put this to bed and get back to arguing about Three Links.

I rewired mine to have power at both switches all the time and obviously quite a few of these 55’s have been molested and the relay could have been bypassed at some point so it would be nice to have a few of the guys that own later 55’s test for us.
 
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Ahhh... yes indeed when we have a more accurate schematic I believe you're correct. It appears to disable the dash switch with the key off.

The purpose of my post is done, I'm going to have power to both so it doesn't matter. I also learned that this is low torque motor so it will stall before any damage.
Keep safe out there... avoid Covid-19 and try to avoid cabin fever by getting into the garage to work on those pigs.
 
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I believe you're correct

Until someone pops in and says a single relay before a single switch electromagically turns into a motor reversing, switch protecting circuit that you can’t live without.

I was reluctant to try to Help/Answer your question when you originally asked it because it takes so much time and effort to prove you are correct that often times I rather just sit back and wait for the inevitable train wreck and think wow I didn’t see that coming while sipping my Beer.

With that said I received so much bad advice when building my Pig that cost me way more time and money than it should have I believe we should let it play out and if a few guys go out and press their switches with the key in the off position and report back then we can ask @wngrog with his new super mod powers to go fix the sticky’s with some accurate information for the next group of pig owners looking to save one of these things.

Bottom line this is a giant pain in my A$$ to get into an internet argument every time I ask someone to help me verify the information they are giving to make sure we can all agree we aren’t posting bad info costing everyone that reads it time and money blindly believing it to be true.
 
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I apologize @NikP if my rant came across as directed at you.
I am more than happy to help anyway I can with anything you need.
I didn't take it personally at all... You helped with what I needed. The rest of the chat in this post causes me to chuckle and feel guilty that my question caused such a rabbit chase to ensue. I thought I was asking something simple but realized we often don't know how it really works... it just works sometimes and as long as it works we don't need to know any more.

You found a more current wiring diagram that correctly depicts the relay's purpose and gave clarity about the motor's operations. I'm in great shape.

From the diagram posted in the tailgate sticky, it showed the relay but it didn't make any sense because it shown incorrectly wired. Since it didn't make any sense, it caused me to wonder how the damn thing really worked. When you see the wiring harness I had and all the screwy hand-twisted and taped connections, I was worried I was missing something.


All is good with me... now off to put the rest of the pig together.
 
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You found a more current wiring diagram that correctly depicts the relay's purpose and gave clarity about the motor's operations. I'm in great shape.





From the diagram posted in the tailgate sticky, it showed the relay but it didn't make any sense because it shown incorrectly wired. Since it didn't make any sense, it caused me to wonder how the damn thing really worked. When you see the wiring harness I had and all the screwy hand-twisted and taped connections, I was worried I was missing something.

That addresses why trying to answer a simple question becomes more work than it’s worth, I answered your question five times on the first page with the exact same answer with pictures of schematics, then on page two there still appears to be some debate if you’ll burn the switch contacts up if you don’t use the relay so I needed to give my same answer to your question two more times. I only stuck with it as long as I did because you seem like a good guy that’s put a lot of work into your pig and I didn’t want to see you struggle needlessly with bad advice.

I don’t know where Gary got the info he put in the sticky but if by having conversations like we’re having and if we can correct that info based on something we can all agree on we should petition @wngrog with his super mod powers and ask him to make the stickys current and correct.
 

PabloCruise

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Jinkees, life moves pretty fast around here!

If I had taken the time to read what I posted in the main Rear Window thread, I would have realized that relay does not divert the current from going through the dash switch:

pig-tailgate-12-38-jpg.368244



And yes, I can confirm, you can't operate the rear window w/o the key being in position 2 (run).
 

PabloCruise

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There's a Reason 🤔😉🙄
There's a Reason for that 🤔😉🙂🤣😂🤨🙄
Super Mod! Window goes up, window goes down, window goes up, window goes down!!!

There's a Reason for that 😅😂🤣🙄🤨🙂🤔🤔😉😢😆🐷💩

I am with you sir! Maybe security? You need the key to move that rear window? Who knows.

I wish I was there at Toyota when they were designing Pigs, I would have spec'd some additional coatings and seam sealer!
 
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If I had taken the time to read what I posted in the main Rear Window thread, I would have realized that relay does not divert the current from going through the dash switch:


And yes, I can confirm, you can't operate the rear window w/o the key being in position 2 (run).
Great Info TJ, can we find a way to make this information permanently available and remove the inaccurate information to avoid future confusion?
 

Ming89FJ62

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Keep in mind that the tailgate key switch is the primary switch and is always hot. The relay provides power to the dash switch only with the ignition key is turned to the “On” position
 

fj55-100

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I was reluctant to try to Help/Answer your question when you originally asked it because it takes so much time and effort to prove you are correct that often times I rather just sit back and wait for the inevitable train wreck and think wow I didn’t see that coming while sipping my Beer.
This is the reason i seldom post .. . to not have the current flow through the switch to make it crispy a additional relay must be added to the tailgate and bolth switches must control the relay to send power to the motor .
 
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This is the reason i seldom post .. . to not have the current flow through the switch to make it crispy a additional relay must be added to the tailgate and bolth switches must control the relay to send power to the motor .
You tried to warn me and I should have listened.

I promise I’ll do a better job of sitting back and watching it happen next time.



tenor.gif
 

PabloCruise

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Great Info TJ, can we find a way to make this information permanently available and remove the inaccurate information to avoid future confusion?

Heck yeah man, We can link these in the Gary S sticky. I don't think there is any new content here, other than gifs of crashing choo-choo trains...
 
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