rear (third row) speakers - any better way than this?

DirtScaresMe

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So I popped the panel off my 1994 FZJ-80's rear (third row) speakers and it looked like this:



I bought a set of Pioneer TS-T110 speakers. Tiny little guys but too big to fit the grill's circle thing. I couldn't get my new speakers to sit flush and get the grills back on. So I bought some plastic pipe strap.



Screwed the two bigger bronze screws through and sort of jammed the plastic strapping back with the speaker screwed onto it as well. Also, discarded the metal and plastic housings shown in the above picture; only used the speaker, headless bolt, and a nut. Used blue loctite because red is just jinxing yourself.



I know these are the least relevant speakers in the whole mix but at $24/pair I thought it was an okay upgrade since I'm switching out everything else and adding a sub.

Any opinions on ways I could have done this better? A little worried about the plastic straps eventually getting a little soggy. The speakers aren't aimed perfect, but I can live with that if they fit and don't look ghetto with the grills off.
 
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What about using a Dremel or similar tool to modify the opening of the plastic housing? It looks like you could retain the four plastic clips that hold it onto the ceiling and the original screen in the front.

Does the replacement speaker fit in the metal mounting bracket?

What are you doing about a sub? I bought the Whole Hog sub bracket but I haven't done anything with it yet, since my truck is currently radio-delete... Haha!
 
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I would've just disconnected the factory drivers and reinstalled the grilles. Is anyone ever going to sit back there anyway?
 
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I disconnected mine, as I think most people do...because they are in-line with the door speakers. The two other things I considered:

1. Cutting out a wood template and installing a tweeter, then using a component woofer and crossover in the door and aiming the tweeter.
2. Putting in a smaller "full range" speaker like you did and using a bass blocker, so the speakers produce sounds in their intended range.

What you did will probably work for a while. I would try to stick some filling in around it, foam or whatnot, to try to aim it a little better.
 

DirtScaresMe

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I would've just disconnected the factory drivers and reinstalled the grilles. Is anyone ever going to sit back there anyway?
Yeah like I said I know these are the least loved of speakers, but they took 30 minutes to do and it was fun. I find myself with the tailgate open, cooking or just using it as a chips/salsa deck.
 

DirtScaresMe

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What are you doing about a sub? I bought the Whole Hog sub bracket but I haven't done anything with it yet, since my truck is currently radio-delete... Haha!
I went with a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered subwoofer. 75 watts so it's nothing crazy, and the Sony MEXN5100BT receiver I'm putting in has sub amp outputs so I'm hoping it all works well. On the head scratching list is whether the existing wiring can power the receiver and sub without blowing fuses everywhere.

I got 4 speakers for the doors, went with Pioneer TSG1645R. So in short:

Doors: Pioneer TSG1645R
Sub: Kenwood KSC-SW11
Receiver: Sony MEXN5100BT
Little guys: Pioneer TS-T110
AM/FM Antenna: Amazon.com: AM/FM Antenna with 96-Inch Cable: Car Electronics (96", mounting it on the rear bumper).

The only one I'm missing is the ~6" speaker in the back (passenger side, near the tailgate).
 
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No, you'll have to run power wire from the battery to the powered subwoofer. A 75 watt amp will need 10 gauge wire for power. You won't be able to run it off the tiny stock wiring.

The head unit will run fine off stock wiring. Don't forget to unplug the stock amp for the speakers.

The speaker near the tailgate is Toyota's attempt at a subwoofer. Just disconnect it, or take it out altogether since you're putting your own powered sub in.
 

DirtScaresMe

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No, you'll have to run power wire from the battery to the powered subwoofer. A 75 watt amp will need 10 gauge wire for power. You won't be able to run it off the tiny stock wiring.

The head unit will run fine off stock wiring. Don't forget to unplug the stock amp for the speakers.

The speaker near the tailgate is Toyota's attempt at a subwoofer. Just disconnect it, or take it out altogether since you're putting your own powered sub in.
lol @ their "subwoofer", but in their defense it's 23 years old and I didn't buy a LC for the stereo. The wiring diagram shows a woofer speaker amplifier(w6) sitting between the radio and the woofer speaker (w5). Do you know the output on the existing woofer amplifier? I wouldn't mind tossing something else back there since it's wired and powered.

I'm not really a car guy; are there any best practices for getting a wire from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment? I assume there's a firewall with some tight tolerances between existing wire bundles and the firewall. I bought some of these for running a CB cable out (eBoot Plastic Waterproof Adjustable 3.5 - 13mm Cable Glands Joints, PG7, PG9, PG11, PG13.5, PG16, Pack of 20 - - Amazon.com ) but drilling through the firewall seems ... like something I'd rather avoid.
 
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The amplifier would probably suck for a full range speaker, but feel free to give it a try. I would recommend a 6" speaker if you can find it. I think the stock sub had some kind of weird ohm rating, so prepare to not be too impressed with the sound. Bear in mind, if you disconnect the amplifier plug to run the speakers off your aftermarket head unit (which you want to), I believe it also cuts the signal to the rear amp. Might want to double check the EWD to make sure.

I used a small amp and put in a dual voice coil sub. It's okay. I just wanted something with a little bass and it works.

It isn't terribly hard to run the wire. I would recommend running it through the firewall grommet behind the pedals (don't need to cut metal), then under the door sills on the driver's side, behind the driver's side rear storage (i.e. jack) panel, then under the rear hatch door sill. That's how I did mine at least and it went very easily and hides well. I ran the sub-out RCA cable and amp turn-on wire down the passenger side to reduce interference.
 

DirtScaresMe

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Cool, thanks for all that. My head unit is delayed in getting here so I'm popping the speakers in now, 3/6 of the way through. Stoked to know that running the power from the engine compartment won't be too horrible.

One more dumb question: doesn't the sub draw some kind of current non-stop? Any issues with that since it's going to the battery directly?
 
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Even though it's wired directly to your battery, the sub amp has a "remote turn-on wire" - the blue wire that tells the amp to turn on. It does not constantly draw power.
 
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