Hey everyone, looked at a few threads on this issue and I'm gathering opinions on how I should proceed next.
The other night I had just finished up replacing transmission hoses, took it out for a spin and tested all the features of my triple locked 97 fzj80 checking to see if everything was "road-trip ready" or at least close. Want to hit some trails and don't want anything to surprise me if it doesn't work. Anyway, part of that is testing things such as the low range and all three lockers.
I tried everything three separate times (had to get transmission fluid level right so I took it for a couple laps). Will say the front has never worked, although not high on my list of priorities. On my first attempt the center lock worked flawlessly as well as the rear, I was actually surprised at how quickly it engaged. Second try only the center lock came on. And finally on the third attempt the center worked well and so did the rear... except that when it was time to head back the rear would not disengage. Rolled back and forth, changed it from low to high back to low several times. Nothing worked. I knew it was locked as I could hear the tires slip and feel the rear not want to turn. Ever so carefully got myself and the cruiser home, avoiding any sharp turns and called it a night.
Fast forward to today, I built a makeshift "obstacle". This being a bunch of mulch stacked on top of each other in an attempt to create a situation that would possibly challenge the rear axle, or at least simulate some slippage. Rolled back and forth on this contraption for a solid 20 minutes, using both low range with the center diff lock on as well as just having it in 4H. Nothing changed about my situation, did a few gradual S shaped turns in order to confirm and yep, still binding and skidding. Considering going to my gf's place, she has a field I could try to do some figure 8's in, just worried about damaging the rear as it's a little less than twenty minutes of driving which has some normal turns.
Now I've got the rear jacked up in the garage in an attempt to turn the wheels and see if it'll come loose... and then I realized all four tires need to be jacked up to try and dislodge the rears from each other
. I'm new and have a limited tool set. Considering running down to a harbor freight and grabbing two more jack stands.
Have tried to do my research on this topic, looked at:
The overall consensus I'm gathering is that the actuator is going to have to be opened up and the actual locker is going to need pushing out of position. One note I have is that I can hear clicking whenever I turn the locker dial.
Or @CPACruiser describes an alternative method.
My issue is I'm not too sure how able I'll be to get any of these aforementioned pieces or bolts off. Apprehensive because my lc isn't the cleanest on the underneath (or anywhere, for that matter). So far I've doused everything in some penetrating fluid, letting that sit and work. Would have to buy some way to heat as well or an extractor set and @CPACruiser mentions that
So I'm asking for any help or advice on how I should proceed next.
Risk damage and go do some figure 8's?
Go grab jack stands and try to rotate the tires?
Risk snapping the bolts to the actuator cover? (or could someone explain or photograph where the sensor plate would be).
I'm also aware that the differential oil likely needs to be changed, do I just swap it out and try wiggle the car around again? Worried about this approach as well since the fill bolt looks pretty rounded.
I know I sound like a basket case rambling about the context of the situation and my nervousness of attempting the previous fix but I need this car back on the road soon and can't afford breaking something major/difficult to undo. I'm okay with just disconnecting something and not touching the rear as long as the wheels turn without risk of damaging the diff. Will attach pictures of what actuator is looking like so that someone can either point out the sensor plate or tell me if I'm overreacting about the condition of my undercarriage. What should be on my list? More jack stands? Differential Oil? Bolt extractor set?
Actuator cover
Is this the sensor that was being referred to? Just try and get that out with a spanner?
The refill and drain bolts I'm worried about.
Thank you and sorry for such a long and incoherent post
The other night I had just finished up replacing transmission hoses, took it out for a spin and tested all the features of my triple locked 97 fzj80 checking to see if everything was "road-trip ready" or at least close. Want to hit some trails and don't want anything to surprise me if it doesn't work. Anyway, part of that is testing things such as the low range and all three lockers.
I tried everything three separate times (had to get transmission fluid level right so I took it for a couple laps). Will say the front has never worked, although not high on my list of priorities. On my first attempt the center lock worked flawlessly as well as the rear, I was actually surprised at how quickly it engaged. Second try only the center lock came on. And finally on the third attempt the center worked well and so did the rear... except that when it was time to head back the rear would not disengage. Rolled back and forth, changed it from low to high back to low several times. Nothing worked. I knew it was locked as I could hear the tires slip and feel the rear not want to turn. Ever so carefully got myself and the cruiser home, avoiding any sharp turns and called it a night.
Fast forward to today, I built a makeshift "obstacle". This being a bunch of mulch stacked on top of each other in an attempt to create a situation that would possibly challenge the rear axle, or at least simulate some slippage. Rolled back and forth on this contraption for a solid 20 minutes, using both low range with the center diff lock on as well as just having it in 4H. Nothing changed about my situation, did a few gradual S shaped turns in order to confirm and yep, still binding and skidding. Considering going to my gf's place, she has a field I could try to do some figure 8's in, just worried about damaging the rear as it's a little less than twenty minutes of driving which has some normal turns.
Now I've got the rear jacked up in the garage in an attempt to turn the wheels and see if it'll come loose... and then I realized all four tires need to be jacked up to try and dislodge the rears from each other
. I'm new and have a limited tool set. Considering running down to a harbor freight and grabbing two more jack stands.Have tried to do my research on this topic, looked at:
I did a search and found plenty of "locker won't engage," but unfortunately that not my issue, but maybe it's a similar diagnosis?
I was out snow wheeling last night and had the rear locked a few times and it worked flawlessly....until it was time to go home and it wouldn't disengage. I tried figure 8s, I tried reverse...i tried removing fuses, i tried negative battery terminal removal...
Even when selecting 4hi it doesn't turn off!!
I'm assuming I need to pull the actuator and possibly see if it's all gunked up inside on the gear/pins? Manually push the locking mechanism to off? Then...
I was out snow wheeling last night and had the rear locked a few times and it worked flawlessly....until it was time to go home and it wouldn't disengage. I tried figure 8s, I tried reverse...i tried removing fuses, i tried negative battery terminal removal...
Even when selecting 4hi it doesn't turn off!!
I'm assuming I need to pull the actuator and possibly see if it's all gunked up inside on the gear/pins? Manually push the locking mechanism to off? Then...
The overall consensus I'm gathering is that the actuator is going to have to be opened up and the actual locker is going to need pushing out of position. One note I have is that I can hear clicking whenever I turn the locker dial.
Or @CPACruiser describes an alternative method.
Couldn't really visualize or decipher what they meant by this
My issue is I'm not too sure how able I'll be to get any of these aforementioned pieces or bolts off. Apprehensive because my lc isn't the cleanest on the underneath (or anywhere, for that matter). So far I've doused everything in some penetrating fluid, letting that sit and work. Would have to buy some way to heat as well or an extractor set and @CPACruiser mentions that
Making me wary of using heat.
So I'm asking for any help or advice on how I should proceed next.
Risk damage and go do some figure 8's?
Go grab jack stands and try to rotate the tires?
Risk snapping the bolts to the actuator cover? (or could someone explain or photograph where the sensor plate would be).
I'm also aware that the differential oil likely needs to be changed, do I just swap it out and try wiggle the car around again? Worried about this approach as well since the fill bolt looks pretty rounded.
I know I sound like a basket case rambling about the context of the situation and my nervousness of attempting the previous fix but I need this car back on the road soon and can't afford breaking something major/difficult to undo. I'm okay with just disconnecting something and not touching the rear as long as the wheels turn without risk of damaging the diff. Will attach pictures of what actuator is looking like so that someone can either point out the sensor plate or tell me if I'm overreacting about the condition of my undercarriage. What should be on my list? More jack stands? Differential Oil? Bolt extractor set?
Actuator cover
Is this the sensor that was being referred to? Just try and get that out with a spanner?
The refill and drain bolts I'm worried about.
Thank you and sorry for such a long and incoherent post
