Rear Doors Tearing at Door Stops?

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PabloCruise said:
That is really useful - thank you! Looks like these go for ~$100/each?!?
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I bought it from eBay seller partsouq (partsouq on eBay) for $79.34 including shipping. He's got good prices and very reasonable shipping from U.A.E. for hard-to-find parts that my dealer wants a high premium for. Shipping is quick, I would not hesitate to purchase from him. I've done about four transactions with him.
 
Ayune said:
I bought it from eBay seller partsouq (partsouq on eBay) for $79.34 including shipping. He's got good prices and very reasonable shipping from U.A.E. for hard-to-find parts that my dealer wants a high premium for. Shipping is quick, I would not hesitate to purchase from him. I've done about four transactions with him.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that is the right hand side (passenger?),

6863060051 Genuine Toyota CHECK ASSY, REAR DOOR, RH 68630-60051 | eBay

I think the left hand side is: 6864060050 Genuine Toyota CHECK ASSY, REAR DOOR, LH 68640-60050 | eBay
 
I am wondering if instead of welding, one could get some sheet metal cut with openings for the door stops that would fit inside the door, epoxy it in place, replace door stops and call it good? That would remove the need for paint work...
 
Before I drop somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 to $200 on rear door check assemblies, why do these tear the door sheet metal out?

Do they seize up? Has anyone taken one apart? Can they be cleaned and lubed?

Still angry about this, but I am moving towards acceptance. Just want to know if it is necessary to buy new check assemblies...
 
cmck said:
Did you epoxy or weld the plates in?
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Neither, but epoxy would have been a good idea. I made the patch a bit larger and the tear and drilled holes through the patch plate and the door and bolted them together. Then used a bunch of silicone to seal it up. In the attached pic, you can see the new bolts and the old bolts are in the silicone mess.

DSC_0011.webp
 
That this is happening is baffling - I need more info as to why...
 
Luckily, I was able to make some progress on this.

The guy I bought the LX from only had it for a short time. Long story, but he got it from a customer of his and then sold it to me less than a month later. He said the PO had 3 kids and they used the 3rd row seating a lot. So probably more then 3 kids using the rear doors a lot. Same guy I got the LX from has a '99 LC with over 340k on his, 2 kids, no tearing at the rear door stops. interesting...

Step one: get the rear door cards off. This is not bad, but the plastic that holds the window switches is tough to remove on the rear doors.

This seems to be the best thread on removing the door cards. Pictures are for the front, but the process is similar: Door panel removal process
 
Once you get the door cards off, it is pretty easy to remove the door checks. 2 x 10mm nuts hold them to the door, 1 x 10mm bolt holds it to the B pillar.

Assess the condition of your metal. My driver side was torn much worse than my passenger side. It looks like I didn't take a picture of the passenger side...

4 Nov 2017 001.webp
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Having friends who are smarter/more skilled comes in handy. Lucky for me, a friend of mine thought this was not so bad as I thought it was. He had some 10 gauge steel lying around and we figured that was thick enough to spread the load from the door checks over a broad area, but skinny enough to fit under the threads of the door checks.

We cut out a pattern that would fit the flat area around the rear door checks:

4 Nov 2017 009.webp
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For the passenger door, the reinforcement plate let the door check pull the metal back together.

We opted to simply clean and lube the door check and bolt this side in.

We used some brake clean and silicon lube on the door checks and they work very smoothly now!

4 Nov 2017 003.webp
 
Since the driver side was torn up pretty bad, we opted to weld the plate to the perimeter.

Again, smart and skilled friends comes in handy. Since I know nothing about welding, my friend thought he could run a slow stitch around the perimeter to keep the heat down.

First we cleaned the metal to get a nice clean weld.

Then we bolted the door check back in to get the location of the plate right where we wanted it. We measured the passenger side bolt holes from the top of the door and ran the same measurement on the driver side. We tested the door check operation for binding. Finally we tacked the plate with the door check installed. When I say "we tacked the plate", I mean my friend did. I supervised...

After the tacks were in, we removed the door check and my friend welded small stitches all the way around. He stopped and cooled the metal with a wet cloth to keep heat from building up.

Grind, and then we covered the bare metal with some satin black rattle can. I did not get a picture of that, but with the door cards back on, and the front seats in normal position, you cannot see this area unless you put your head in the door opening and look down. I doubt I will do any additional paint in this area. I may get some factory color touch-up paint and work on it, but the area is not very visible for day-to-day operation.

Hope this helps!

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Mine are making a terrible rubbing noise.
At least I know what to do, before it gets to bad.
Good post guys.
 
Well this was one of my first repairs on my LC. Cutting and welding with the door on is a major PITA. This is not done yet, buy you can get the idea from the pictures.

First, remove the door covering and unbolt the limiter from the door
Next, with a body saw, or small cut-off wheel clean up the opening, removing all torn or rusted metal
Then, use some cardboard from inside the door and trace a template
Cut some 16ga sheet metal to match the template and test fit.
Use a magnet to hold the metal in place and begin to weld a couple spots, making sure to move around the metal giving is a chance to cool so you don't warp the door or patch.
Clean it up, fill with putty or light bondo, then paint.

Mine is not filled or painted yet, but so far i have about 2.5 hours into the fix.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/O81ECGw1sqcGRjMd2
 
KiteOregon said:
Well this was one of my first repairs on my LC. Cutting and welding with the door on is a major PITA. This is not done yet, buy you can get the idea from the pictures.

First, remove the door covering and unbolt the limiter from the door
Next, with a body saw, or small cut-off wheel clean up the opening, removing all torn or rusted metal
Then, use some cardboard from inside the door and trace a template
Cut some 16ga sheet metal to match the template and test fit.
Use a magnet to hold the metal in place and begin to weld a couple spots, making sure to move around the metal giving is a chance to cool so you don't warp the door or patch.
Clean it up, fill with putty or light bondo, then paint.

Mine is not filled or painted yet, but so far i have about 2.5 hours into the fix.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/O81ECGw1sqcGRjMd2
Click to expand...

Looks great to me, good work!

Did you remove the door? Did you use heavier gauge metal or back it up with a second piece?
 
I should have removed the door, would have been much faster. I used 16ga metal, so it's maybe a bit thicker. I also used some thick washers inside the door to distribute the force. Figure it lasted 16 years, this fix should last another 16 years.;
 
Lube. Lube. LUBE!!!
The door slides MUST be lubed at least twice a year, more often if you drive in dusty conditions.
i use bicycle chain lube, it does not attract dirt, lube all latches and hinges too. If it moves it needs lube.
If it squeaks it needs lube now.
Spray, open/close several times, lube again..
Latches, lube, close/open several times, lube again.
Hinges...
Keyholes...
The safety latch on the hood release, it will stick in the "open" position, if your hood were to come unlatched your hood would fly open instead of stopping at the safety latch.
Lube your hood release, keep it working smoothly instead of waiting until the cable is hard to pull from the inside and then the handle breaks off and you cannot open the hood any more.
 
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