Rear Doors Tearing at Door Stops? (1 Viewer)

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PabloCruise

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The :princess: said the DS rear door was making a weird clunk noise.

Pictures to follow, but the metal around the door stop has torn through!

Anyone else have this?

WTF?

Not sure how you fix this w/o replacing doors?

This rig is a '99 w/ 167k, not worth finding and painting rear doors...
 
What the heck? I know the wife and kid are hard on things, but seriously?

Anyone else seeing this?

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My take, is that the internal rollers stopped moving freely, flexing the sheet metal.
 
Mine did that before I bought the truck. Didn't notice when I initially looked over the truck. To fix mine, I bought a new stop (expensive) and cut a small piece of sheet metal to place behind the tear inside the door. Then bolted the new stop to that and the plate to the part of the door that wasn't torn. Pain to do, but worked pretty well. I do hear a clunk when that window is rolled down, so maybe one of my bolts is a bit too long.
 
Mine did that before I bought the truck. Didn't notice when I initially looked over the truck. To fix mine, I bought a new stop (expensive) and cut a small piece of sheet metal to place behind the tear inside the door. Then bolted the new stop to that and the plate to the part of the door that wasn't torn. Pain to do, but worked pretty well. I do hear a clunk when that window is rolled down, so maybe one of my bolts is a bit too long.
Did you epoxy or weld the plates in?
 
Just curious, my LC is a 99.....what years does everybody have?
Did toyota figure this out and fix it? If so how did they fix it? New type door check design? Better door attachment design?
 
Hmmm... We have 2 1998's, mine with 245,000 and my wife's with 280,000 miles. Neither of them have ever had this issue.
Do you have kids that over stress the doors? Open too far, hang on them or...??? First time I've ever seen that.

Now for a fix: I personally would go to a body shop, because you're going to have to weld in new panels. They will also make sure the doors hand correctly. It only takes a small fraction of an inch (read: less than .0625") for a door not to close correctly. It may be nice if before the new panels were welded in that a .25" plate could be tacked behind to reinforce it. Just my 2 pennies worth.

Hopefully you can find a cheaper and easier fix! Good luck!
 
Hmmm... We have 2 1998's, mine with 245,000 and my wife's with 280,000 miles. Neither of them have ever had this issue.
Do you have kids that over stress the doors? Open too far, hang on them or...??? First time I've ever seen that.

Now for a fix: I personally would go to a body shop, because you're going to have to weld in new panels. They will also make sure the doors hand correctly. It only takes a small fraction of an inch (read: less than .0625") for a door not to close correctly. It may be nice if before the new panels were welded in that a .25" plate could be tacked behind to reinforce it. Just my 2 pennies worth.

Hopefully you can find a cheaper and easier fix! Good luck!

Interesting to know! We have one kid who rides in the back b/c he is too small to ride in the front. My first thought is that maybe he was being hard on the doors, but when I look at the pictures, it looks like the metal is tearing as if being pushed IN the door, not OUT. I know he doesn't close the doors in a crazy fashion.

I believe the doors are still hung well (ha), as this tearing is only around the door stop, not at the hinges. The doors open and latch just fine. Now when they close there is some clunking as I am guessing the door stop bumps around.
 
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My rear PS door check was ripped out by the PO backing into a pole or something while the door was open:

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Rear map pocket has the dent to prove it:
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I bought the replacement door check (PN 68630-60051) but haven't yet tackled the sheet metal fab required to install it. I see no tears in the metal around the other three. Subscribed.
 
I have noticed some noises coming from that area on both of my rear doors recently, like a metal on metal rubbing or slight grinding. It seems to make most noise when closing. I will probably try to put some lithium grease in there with a needle point to see if it helps, if not, then I'll have to open it up. I bet that if I were to let this go, it would end up like the pictures above. Good thing the doors are rarely used! I'll respond with what I find out. Will be a few days before I get to it. Anyone have a picture of the mechanism inside the door?
 
I bought the replacement door check (PN 68630-60051) but haven't yet tackled the sheet metal fab required to install it. I see no tears in the metal around the other three. Subscribed.

Can you post a pic of the replacement part? Would like to see if there are any obvious spots that's would benefit from lubing/greasing. Thanks!
 
Anyone have a picture of the mechanism inside the door?

This is the part I have sitting on the shelf, waiting, waiting, waiting. Looks like they're specific for each door. The arm is in its most extended position (door open). It's impossible to move by hand.

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If you pull back the felt you see the inner "squeezing" parts. You could lube in there I suppose, but you want the check to keep 'checking' and not just slide past the indentations and squash the legs of your littlest loved ones (my driveway is inclined :frown:).

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My rear PS door check was ripped out by the PO backing into a pole or something while the door was open:

View attachment 1557682

Rear map pocket has the dent to prove it:
View attachment 1557683

I bought the replacement door check (PN 68630-60051) but haven't yet tackled the sheet metal fab required to install it. I see no tears in the metal around the other three. Subscribed.

That is really useful - thank you! Looks like these go for ~$100/each?!?

The p/n does not "fit' the '99 LX in the amazon parts checker.
 

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