I’ve driven both those motors here in Colorado, and for a crawler, sure. Pulling long grades in the mountains, wouldn’t be my choice, but to each their own. Either way, being way over tired isn’t helping the setup.
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Why do you want a more narrow 35? I hope going to 35s will help with the rubbing, but if not ill get some spacers for the front.
@changingground its. 22re, the 5spd and 5.29s do alright but i think 35s will be perfect.
I never regeared mine, but I’m sure it would make a radical difference.
ntsqd
technerd
I drove 33-10.50's for literally decades and had one set of 33-9.50's. I have never felt like I needed a 12.5" wide tire under such a light truck. Not even on our CTD do I need a 12.5" wide tire, but it is geared to operate correctly with a 35" tall tire. As is my FSB.
My 3.0L pulls long grades just fine, I geared it for 235/85R16's. One thing to note is that I've not pulled long grades at very high altitude (12k'-14k'), just Sierra's class altitudes (8k'-10k'). As I said, it's not a hot-rod, but as long as I can go fast enough to keep the converter locked it pulls the grades just fine. As soon as the converter unlocks because the road is too curvy (Towne Pass, 5k', CA190) it drives up the trans temp, which shortly starts to drive up the engine temp and then I have to back off even more.
If the vehicle hasn't been re-geared to operate at the correct RPM with a different tire size, then it's hardly the engine's fault.
Somewhere West of Ely, NV on the old 31's, 4.56's & ARB's, Spring 2019's "Guy Trip":
My 3.0L pulls long grades just fine, I geared it for 235/85R16's. One thing to note is that I've not pulled long grades at very high altitude (12k'-14k'), just Sierra's class altitudes (8k'-10k'). As I said, it's not a hot-rod, but as long as I can go fast enough to keep the converter locked it pulls the grades just fine. As soon as the converter unlocks because the road is too curvy (Towne Pass, 5k', CA190) it drives up the trans temp, which shortly starts to drive up the engine temp and then I have to back off even more.
If the vehicle hasn't been re-geared to operate at the correct RPM with a different tire size, then it's hardly the engine's fault.
Somewhere West of Ely, NV on the old 31's, 4.56's & ARB's, Spring 2019's "Guy Trip":
Well, I posted on here, eBay, & CL, back in Oct. wanting to sell my 1985 Toyota truck. It appeared that nobody wanted to buy it, so my wife gave me a challenge to fix it up with a budget of 5 grand. I am a welder by trade and woodworking type person not a vehicle interior or body person at all. But during this 5-month period I learned a lot. Here is the result, and a best guess at what was done, because I can't remember it all.Like the subjects says, post a picture of your truck or 4Runner, and tell us about it. If you have a lot of pics and mods, and feel up to it, sign up for the rig of the biweek, and you'll get a whole thread to yourself!
Lets keep the chat to a minimum (That means none!) If you have a question about someones truck, start a new thread, or PM them, so we don't clutter this up.
Power windows and new registers
Power locks
8 switch Rocker panel on the center console for all and future accessories
New Carpet replaced the rubber flooring
New vinyl upholstered dash and HD foam (stripped to bare metal)
Custom center console made of wood and wrapped in foam and vinyl and hidden 20 slot secondary fuse box for all the accessories under a 100amp fuse and relay
Did the Ford Bronco relay for the starter.
Complete upholstery wrapped interior cab (repurposed back cab panel wrapped in diamond vinyl, side cab walls by molding ABS plastic & 1” foam, wrapped in vinyl diamond vinyl on 1/4" inch wood panels for the doors, headliner, mirror/dome light, interior visors made with ABS plastic, real wood door handles and lower door
Racing seats (I used part of the original seat frame, welded old to new, and repurposed the Toyota plastic side frame cover, added ABS plastic then wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl). The racing seats are narrower by 2-3”.
In dash LED clock added to new climate control panel
Filled cigarette lighter with voltage regulator, where the ash tray went molded some ABS plastic to fill
LED Speakers
Shifter boots and knobs
Wood Steering wheel, adapter hub, and working horn in steering wheel hub (previous owner had a button under the dash)
Backup camera
All new weather stripping and felt
Replaced regular rear window with Sliding 4 panel rear window/new weather stripping
New windshield-eliminated rust causing windshield trim BS, used universal rubber for trim and urethane’d in.
Hood bug shield
New side mirrors
Door window sun visors
Custom bumpers, grill and sidesteps
New LED headlights, new buckets with harness/relays and fuse to lower from 54” to 49”/ this is allowing the coming additional 2" and more if needed. Texas law restricts headlights to 54'
L-shaped LED (eyebrows above headlights) arriving Feb 4-10… I can send a follow up on eyebrows. I wanted to fill the void on the grill, where previous halogen lights were and add some fun
2 LED license plate lights
New exterior drive lights and LED lighting to include additional taillight, turn and reverse
Cab LED clearance lights
Exterior fiberglass sun visor and fiberglass smoothie cowl. I had to take off the front fenders, clean out cowl cavity and repair wire harness grommets letting water into cab and undercoated the cavity. It’s why I bought the smoothie cowl.
BUSHWHACKER fender flares, I didn’t like the way the bushwhacker fender flare fit where the gas tank filler was so I altered it by welding ABS plastic and made it bigger and better at fuel access door.
Bed rails
Tailgate guard
Fake hood induction scoops
Custom mud flaps
Exterior handles to aid entry
2k polyurethane primer base (that stuff is FANTASTIC!!!)
Bed liner black
Bed liner desert tan on the body (some people don’t like the bed liner paint job, but I think it’s killer on these trucks) and it’s mine anyway. Love it or hate it…
The interior was completely gutted, all undercoated. All wiring was organized in looms and boots, in doors to cab, under dash and the console.
All exterior rust was cut out, areas treated, and new metal added body work was completed with All-Metal filler, surface glazed to finish. All whiskey dents fixed.
I added 3” to the front spring hanger, with 3x3x1/4 square tubing. This actually repositioned the front axle angle to a more natural/neutral position from the spring lift affording 2 more inches of lift for better clearance. So, I am about 98% complete. I had to be very creative because parts and accessories are not made for these trucks anymore.
My first reaction is this should be a separate build thread. Did you document the work along the way? If so, start a new thread, please.
Very sweet, awesome!
‘85 4 runner. Only mods are flow master muffler, KO2’s and OME suspension as the stocks were flat when I bought her.
I also swapped out the leaky intake gasket for an upgraded Teflon one (if I remember correctly) and I had the AC rebuilt. My wife wants me to sell her.
I also swapped out the leaky intake gasket for an upgraded Teflon one (if I remember correctly) and I had the AC rebuilt. My wife wants me to sell her.
Bud, you walked into this one. Sell the wife.
I'm saying that as a 1985 4Runner owner. Damn things are getting hard to find in good condition. And they are expensive when you do find one. Plus, the 1985 is the Holy Grail of 4Runners. Only year with EFI and solid front axle.
No, no, no... Pappy has it all wrong. You LOVE your wife... 
As a single guy, I'll make the sacrifice and take the 4Runner off your hands!
As a single guy, I'll make the sacrifice and take the 4Runner off your hands!
Hey, wait a minute. I think I was in line first.No, no, no... Pappy has it all wrong. You LOVE your wife...
As a single guy, I'll make the sacrifice and take the 4Runner off your hands!
Nah... You said he had to keep it!
I did a lot of dream sacrificing when I was married. Being married is great, and I look forward to finding a new partner, but be careful what you give up to keep your wife happy. You get to have your passions, too.
Wives come and go. Toyotas are forever.
While not as extreme as some other on here I'll throw my hate in.
1993 4Runner, 5vz swap, OME Tbars/Coils, and a ton of maintenance items
Have two fully assemebled thirds ordered from marlin with ARB lockers that are 8-10 weeks out.
Need to build some adjustable rear UCA's to replace the one I broke and to get both sides to match sometime this spring
5vz Swap pretty much complete
Glamour shot washed, super clean truck minor rust in the dog log behind the rear doors
With the new 33x10.5x15's
1993 4Runner, 5vz swap, OME Tbars/Coils, and a ton of maintenance items
Have two fully assemebled thirds ordered from marlin with ARB lockers that are 8-10 weeks out.
Need to build some adjustable rear UCA's to replace the one I broke and to get both sides to match sometime this spring
5vz Swap pretty much complete
Glamour shot washed, super clean truck minor rust in the dog log behind the rear doors
With the new 33x10.5x15's
Should be hat not hate....not sure why it wouldn't let me edit the post
That 3.4 looks like it belongs. I actually considered getting a Gen2 4R just so I could do the 3.4 swap. Why? Because it's the last generation with a tailgate. Yes, it's a big deal.
I can't agree more with the tailgate, I use it more than most things in the truck. Thanks for the compliment. I ordered the DIY swap from toyonlyswaps, cannot recommend them enough if you don't want to put it all together yourself. I had them do all the maintenance possible to the motor except the injector o-rings so naturally I had to replace those to fix a vacuum leak once I got it up and running but the install and setup was a breeze. Then it was just lots of slow cleanup and tidying up that engine bay.
87 sas 3.4L
37x14.50
37x14.50
Looks great, what's the hood scoop from? Mustang?
