Re-gearing in progress

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Romer

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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I tore down my axles to pull the diffs. I am having them re-geared to 4.88's.

After 25,000 miles, the Bearing grease was still pinkish-red (Mobil 1) and the birf grease looked like it just came out of the tube. Although one knuckle looked like it could have used more. I'll have to remember to squirt some in ocassionaly.

Not tearing the knucle or the trunion bearings because I am going after the diffs. I will change the inner axle seal and clean and repack the bearings and use solvent on the birfs to get the old grease out. I plan on swapping the rear axles for the hradned one Christo sells. Then I will use the short side when I install a rear locker in Sarah's truck.

Man those locked diffs are heavy (Cdan says 100 lbs). Going to need to use a jack to get them back in place.

Can't wait to drive it after it's re-geared.
 
100 lbs for the rear and about 90 for the front.

Do excercise caution regarding the gaskets. Have them seated against the axle housing mounting surface before installing the diffs. The gaskets tend to catch and tear-out around the stud holes if they get the least bit cock-eyed going on.
 
You recommending that spray on crap to hold the gasket in place so it doesn't move?
 
It is probably best to have a second pair of hands helping you out, to keep it nice and steady and cuz of the weight, that and a floor jack of course..
 
Supercharger and 4.88's huh.. I don't think I've seen that combination too often..Usually see 4.56's with supercharged 80's..Your cruiser's lower gears is definitly going to compliament all that extra power/boost created by supercharger, and should by a sight to see when wheeling or slow speeds, hope to see your cruiser in Moab 07.
 
Very interesting

Romer said:
I tore down my axles to pull the diffs. I am having them re-geared to 4.88's.

After 25,000 miles, the Bearing grease was still pinkish-red (Mobil 1) and the birf grease looked like it just came out of the tube. Although one knuckle looked like it could have used more. I'll have to remember to squirt some in ocassionaly.

Not tearing the knucle or the trunion bearings because I am going after the diffs. I will change the inner axle seal and clean and repack the bearings and use solvent on the birfs to get the old grease out. I plan on swapping the rear axles for the hradned one Christo sells. Then I will use the short side when I install a rear locker in Sarah's truck.

Man those locked diffs are heavy (Cdan says 100 lbs). Going to need to use a jack to get them back in place.

Can't wait to drive it after it's re-geared.
Click to expand...

Romer,

I have seen other threads on this mod. What is the benefit? It seems a high expense for a small difference in low end torque.
 
cruiserdan said:
Do excercise caution regarding the gaskets. Have them seated against the axle housing mounting surface before installing the diffs. The gaskets tend to catch and tear-out around the stud holes if they get the least bit cock-eyed going on.
Click to expand...

This is the truth. When I regeared my FJ60, I tore one of the paper gaskets on re-install. It leaked a tiny drip starting day 1. By day 7 I was going crazy and tore it all down and redid it. PIA. If you cut the gaskets out of gasket paper, it doesn't tend to break like the Toyota gasket.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
This is the truth. When I regeared my FJ60, I tore one of the paper gaskets on re-install. It leaked a tiny drip starting day 1. By day 7 I was going crazy and tore it all down and redid it. PIA. If you cut the gaskets out of gasket paper, it doesn't tend to break like the Toyota gasket.
Click to expand...

You can make your own gaskets like cruiserdrew has noted, or another alternative too is to just plain and simply use that red gasket sealer (forgot the exact name of it>c-dan most know) that Toyota sells..I actually didn't use any gaskets last time I put my 3rd's back on the differential housing when installing my arb's on the 40.. I also didn't use it on my front differential on my 80 when regearing to 4.88's..Both have been over a year, no leaks whatsoever..Here is a pic of that Red Toyota gasket sealer/maker, although I think I used a tad too much..;) :
2mgmvfa.jpg
 
nuclearlemon said:
that just looks like permatex.
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Nope..It is a product that toyota sells...If you take a look at your transfer case on your 80, you can see what I am taking about.. I think the label said trans axle sealant :confused:...cdan, where u at?
 
medtro said:
It is 00295-01281 from Toyota.
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Correct. The orange is used on transmissions and gear boxes.

The black, 00295-00103, is used on engines.



The only reservation I have about using sealer instead of a gasket for the diffs is the fact that the alignment of the diff vs the axle housing would be slightly off from the intended orientation. IE the diff will sit further inside the housing, thus "tipping" the axle shafts.
This would be a very slight difference and could easily not be a problem but I would prefer to use the gasket as designed.
 
I always use both. Thin 1/8" bead of Permatex/RTV on the axle housing, carefully put the gasket on, the RTV will hold it in place, then another 1/8" bead on the gasket face. They never leak. Makes getting the gasket off next time much easier too.

Last time I shipped a hi-pinion e-locker, it made it under the 70 lb limit with USPS.
 
cruiserdan said:
The only reservation I have about using sealer instead of a gasket for the diffs is the fact that the alignment of the diff vs the axle housing would be slightly off from the intended orientation. IE the diff will sit further inside the housing, thus "tipping" the axle shafts.
This would be a very slight difference and could easily not be a problem but I would prefer to use the gasket as designed.
Click to expand...

Good point, didn't think of that...To tell u the truth, the only reason why I didn't use the paper gasket while installing my 3rd's back in was because I forgot to order them..I was so anxious to get my cruiser up in running again and play with the lockers, that I just used the sealent I had lying around I had purchased from toyota earlier..Couldn't wait any longer..:grinpimp:
 
Re-gearing Now Complete

Just finished up and took it for a quick spin in the ice and snow. You could definitly feel the low end gearing improvement as I tested my lockers to make sure they worked. Hopefully tomorrow the roads will clear off I bet so I can test it.

Oleg (IRBIS) came over last night to help and the two of us lifted the front diff in.

Ben (Lexusben) brought the rear diff after he finished the re-gear tonight and didn't want my help. He got on the crawler, put the diff on his chest, wheeled under the rig and slapped that baby in there. Man, I'm going to need to work out more.

Thanks Ben and Oleg for you help.
 
I want to do my gears too as one of my next projects. When I did the limited slip on my 4Runner it was pretty straight forward. I had a buddy set my backlash and stuff for me. Even though I'd already purchased a new gasket, he told me not to use it. He said he never uses them and had me use the factory FIPG. Since I don't know anything about doing gears and he's done hundreds, I took his advice.

Here's the funny part: the FSM says to torque the nuts holding the third member to about 55 lbs. This REALLY didn't seem right to me. It's like a 6mm stud. I went down to the dealer and asked to talk to a tech. and he looked it up on his computer. It listed the same torque spec. and he told me it must be right so I went home and started wrenching. Clik, clik, clik, SNAP:mad: Just as I suspected. The really great news was that the dealer didn't have a replacement in stock...... So after driving a couple hours in rush hour traffic to another dealer and back I had my shiny new stud in hand and torqued them all to 25 lbs. or so. So far, so good.
 
That must be a misprint. As I recall, the spec for the 8mm studs that hold the front diff on the 80 is 22 ft/pounds and the rear is something close to 40, but the rear studs are 10mm. I do use the Toyota paper gaskets coated with a super thin coat of gray permatex.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
That must be a misprint. As I recall, the spec for the 8mm studs that hold the front diff on the 80 is 22 ft/pounds and the rear is something close to 40, but the rear studs are 10mm. I do use the Toyota paper gaskets coated with a super thin coat of gray permatex.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, I knew it was a misprint from the start. I blame myself.
 
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