Radiator Misting spray Install

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Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Threads
26
Messages
395
Location
Skippy's Wonderland (OZ)
When everything is in good working order, the 80s standard cooling system is actually very good. But standard is a word that no longer computes with me or my Cruiser. And with a high powered turbo engine, big auto and extra trans coolers up front, she can get a bit warm on hot days with the AC hammering (up to 103degC on the WatchDog gauge) and the going is slow off road. With the AC off, temps sit around mid to high 90's. In the winter, cooling isn't an issue regardless of circumstances, with or without the AC on.

I use to run 2 x 12in thermo fans fitted to the front of the trans and intercooler radiators, but they seemed to do stuff all. So I upgraded to a 16in fan and on hot days with the AC on, the extra cooling from the fan does a decent job controlling engine temps in all but the hardest of low range driving. So with the idea a little more insurance is always a good thing, it was time get creative.

Cue the misting kit. I'd read a bit about them, seen different setups and scoped out my own rig to see what would fit and where. There were 3 main components needed:
1) Water tank
2) Water pump
3) Sprayer jets

So, armed with a length of 100mm PVC and a few bends, it was time to get building.

The tank sits between the slider and underside of the floor on the drivers side. I fitted the pickup at the rear so the pump could scavenge all the water even when low while heading up hill, where I'd need it the most. Total capacity is bang on 10L


How to fill it was another issue to overcome without being a s***-fight all the time. Using a combo of bends, it turns up at the back of the front inner guard and is capped with a screw on lid. It's secured to the sidesteps in two places with 4 stainless steel cable ties and a third spot, shown here, with two screws into M6 riv nuts. Make sure you get a lid with a rubber gasket inside for a water tight seal.


A water pump is mounted in the engine bay. Garden hose connects the tank to the pump, with garden hose out the other side before being reduced, using a combo of brass fittings, to fit the 4mm plastic irrigation line used on drip feed systems etc. The pump is activated via a switch on the dash. Nothing fancy for now.


Removing the support panel in front of the rad, the 4mm line is secured to wiring harness underneath. Using a T and L bends, there are 2 sprayers about 200mm from each end of the rad that hang down about 150mm. I used brass spray jets that give a 360deg spray pattern.


RESULTS:
I've run this setup most of this summer now and it's been awesome. I have the WatchDog temp gauge set to alarm at 95deg. When I run the sprayer for 20-30sec, the temp drops back to high 80s within 1min. I was surprised how quick it works. Sometimes just 10-15sec is enough to take the edge off. The sprayer really pumps the water out so if you leave it on by accident, you'll run out of water pretty quickly, as I've done a couple of times.

Filling the tank is easy enough at home with a hose. When away in the scrub I use a 1.5L water bottle filled from my main water tank. Clean creek water will also work. Most weekends away 10L is heaps, but that can vary greatly on how hard the terrain, ambient temps and engine temps. On a 2 week trip in the VIC high country at Xmas, I filled it once after the original fill, and it was used pretty regularly.

FUTURE:
Now I'm happy it works I'll tidy everything up. At some point I'll do flow testing to work out just how long 10L lasts, and I'll wire the pump up to a relay via the WatchDog to switch on and off automatically. An adjustable time on/off relay will be best, I think.

Anyway, I hope this helps out a few of you who might get a little hot under the bonnet on occasion during hard slogging, and want a little back up plan :wink:
 
And to add to what the others have said, do you have all the weather stripping around the rad?

Cool project (no pun intended); I wanted to do this on another vehicle I had.
 
How funny. You beat me to it. I've getting the pieces together to do the exact same thing. During summer and with the SC my temps tend to go 220+. Right now I'm having radiator issues so I will remedy that but here are some of the components of my setup. Everything is Parker cept for the nozzles, they don't make em.

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Seems odd that you're running that hot. I know this works and the OP's will cool his intake air slightly because of misting the heat exchanger, but for NLXTACY, this won't do anything for intake temps.... If the supercharger is the only thing that changed why not act on the cause of the problem? Cooler intake air temps will both cool motor temps and create happier cylinders. You could very easily convert this system to water or meth injection.

Guzzla you're using a A/W system right? How hot are your IAT's? you can pull them off your Haltech logs. I am sure they are being used for MAP. How hot does the water in your reservoir get? If your IAT's are high but water temp is low the intercooler core isn't dissipating heat and you might look at a larger core. I just went through this.



...via IH8MUD app
 
I'm not trying to reduce air intake temps....yet. I'm just using evaporative cooling to bring the engine temps down a little when it's 125deg out. Since I didn't have the SC on during last summer I don't assume my engine temps will get any cooler this summer ;)
 
Like I mentioned in the first post, the only issue is when the air con is on on really hot days while driving steep inclines off road. The heat generated across the condensor is huge and has a compound effect on the radiator's ability to shed heat, made worse when ambient temps are into the high 30s/40s degC. If you have any idea about how hot it gets here in OZ, you can appreciate that it can be taxing on man and machine under the right circumstances.

iats are fine, as is my cooling system. Round town driving temps are perfect. Its only when off road in really taxing conditions. I hope this clears up any confusion.
 
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I only have one issue with my rad which I just tracked down. I will be going with a Ron Davis most likely. But even with that, as GUZZLA says, with AC on in the heat of summer, climbing a grade or slow wheeling, the temps go way up. Like a bump of coke, just something to get the edge off. :flipoff2:
 
Tank capacity is 10L. I don't see why you couldn't use a smaller pump, that's just what I had kicking around and I didn't want to waste money on something I wasn't sure would work. But its water volume you need to cool things quickly so a smaller pump might need to be on longer to to achieve the same result, just a guess. I know the spray jets flow a fair bit but I've not done any volume testing yet. That's to be done very soon know I'm keeping it.

Ps. They're good fittings you're using, very reliable. I might have to upgrade :)
 
Well the sprayers I got aren't sprayers. I chose misters in order to get maximum coverage and get more of the water atomized. I could go with actual sprayers but curious to see what would work better. Also, I was thinking ALOT of using methanol instead of just water because I could also use it for the IC when I'm ready to install that. Is methanol a good idea to just spray into the open air in front of the radiator? I mean it IS flammable and all. But I also now have the JDM washer tank in the fender now which could be just fine.

And yeah Parker fittings are a tad pricey but they are ROCK SOLID and I did find a place with good pricing (roughly half the price of getting Parker fittings from a Parker store):
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=85258&catid=1000&clickid=searchresults

Here is where I got the nozzles:
http://www.aeromist.com/mist-nozzles/stainless-steel-nozzles/stainless-steel-hex-series-nozzle.html
http://www.aeromist.com/fitting/push-lock-fittings/1-4-push-lock/1-4-push-lock-nozzle-union.html
 
Well the sprayers I got aren't sprayers. I chose misters in order to get maximum coverage and get more of the water atomized. I could go with actual sprayers but curious to see what would work better. Also, I was thinking ALOT of using methanol instead of just water because I could also use it for the IC when I'm ready to install that. Is methanol a good idea to just spray into the open air in front of the radiator? I mean it IS flammable and all. But I also now have the JDM washer tank in the fender now which could be just fine.

And yeah Parker fittings are a tad pricey but they are ROCK SOLID and I did find a place with good pricing (roughly half the price of getting Parker fittings from a Parker store):
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=85258&catid=1000&clickid=searchresults

Here is where I got the nozzles:
http://www.aeromist.com/mist-nozzles/stainless-steel-nozzles/stainless-steel-hex-series-nozzle.html
http://www.aeromist.com/fitting/push-lock-fittings/1-4-push-lock/1-4-push-lock-nozzle-union.html

Your fittings are rated for 300 psi and your nozzles recommend 500 psi and provide flow rates at 1000 psi. You will need a good filtering systems as nozzles of only a few thou will clog with a speck of dust.

Methyl alcohol has a auto ignition temp of about 850F, a flash point below 70F and a boiling point of about 150F. This is considered a IB flammable liquid the same a gasoline. You might want to consider a full gas suppression system and a ejection seat when misting your engine :confused:
 
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Ok just offering another opinion, I live in southern Texas and we have been in a drought for the last 5 years, last year we had 70 days straight over 100f/37.7c and days over 115f/45c. I have never seen temps over 212f except when my rad was plugged. Like I said it is a great looking system very nicely executed, it will work very well I am sure.
 
Your fittings are rated for 250 psi and your nozzles recommend 500 psi and provide flow rates at 1000 psi. You will need a good filtering systems as nozzles of only a few thou will clog with a speck of dust.

The fittings are for UP TO 250psi. The nozzles I actually selected are for much lower PSI and a flow rate of .066 gpm. Highest this company makes. I've already considered the filtering exactly because I don't want to clog the nozzles ;)

Methyl alcohol has a auto ignition temp of about 850F, a flash point below 70F and a boiling point of about 150F. You might want to consider a full gas suppression system and a ejection seat when misting your engine :confused:

I was going to just go with windshield washer fluid without the dye. If its good enough for the windshield and being held in the engine bay, its good enough for spraying on the radiator.

And as an aside, I DO have this waiting to be installed as well:
http://www.smileysracing.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=19524&c=0

Although I may be upgrading to the unit that does auto/manual. Ejector seats...not so much :flipoff2:
 
Ok just offering another opinion, I live in southern Texas and we have been in a drought for the last 5 years, last year we had 70 days straight over 100f/37.7c and days over 115f/45c. I have never seen temps over 212f except when my rad was plugged. Like I said it is a great looking system very nicely executed, it will work very well I am sure.

I hear ya but I have ALWAYS been plagued with high temps. And I have literally replaced EVERY component of the cooling system at one point in time or another. I've given up trying to chase that dragon. Now I concentrate on just keeping temps down. JDM fan and modded clutch are already in.
 
Oh yeah I agree it is a good system for cooling the rad, I am just saying especially in CA with their poor fuel you should be more interested in cooling intake charge than anyone. It will surely make the A/C extra frosty though. lol

As for fire, with washer fluid I wouldn't be too worried about it, the import guys have been spraying intercoolers for years with it. Just know that methanol is bad for aluminum.
 
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