Builds R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build (1 Viewer)

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For those wanting a 4 tire inflation system, below is how I built mine. All the parts can be had on Amazon. Just cut and paste the exact description in the list into Amazon search and you should come up with the part. The total costs should be about half to a third of what it'll cost for a brand name, already built set online.

Note that the most expensive parts are the Haltec tire chucks. You can use whatever chucks you want, but I highly suggest using these.
A big NOTE about the Haltec chucks, make sure you get the Haltec H-5265. When you pull them off, the chuck will shut off so no air is coming out your air hose as you go around to the other tires pulling the chucks off. Keeps the exact same pressure in all your tires.

Below are materials lists for two different size hoses. Of course smaller hose will be a wee bit cheaper and take up less room when coiled. I calculated the CFM differences between the two diameter hoses, so you choose what you want to use. For me with the smaller hose and 35" tires going from ~10 PSI to 40 PSI is less than 15 minutes for all tires at the same time (dual ARB compressor), which is fine for me. If I use my SCUBA tank inflator, that time would be just a few minutes.

This setup really shines when you're using a OBDII dongle, I have the OBDLink MX+ (Amazon product ASIN B07JFRFJG6). I use my Android phone that reads real time tire pressure and temperature. While inflating or deflating, I can sit in my (nice and warm or cool, depending upon weather) rig and watch as the PSI goes up/down equally on all 4 tires at once. No squatting at each tire 5 plus minutes waiting for it to inflate/deflate. When it gets there, just shut off the compressor and pull the valve chucks.

If anyone wants the Excel file or a PDF of the list, PM me and I'll send it out. Unfortuntely Woody doesn't allow PDFs or other file formats to post (yet?).
Maybe someday, so till then, just a screen shot.

1702574112477.webp
 
For the money the MORRflate is a deal! The current 15% off for Christmas is icing on the cake.


Pressures are displayed on my Scan Gauge III.
 
For the money the MORRflate is a deal! The current 15% off for Christmas is icing on the cake.


Pressures are displayed on my Scan Gauge III.
Ahhh, but the satisfaction of building something yourself that's actually functional and useful = priceless!
 
Has anyone used or tired this on their GX?
I didn't think there was any type of "chip" for GX's. It looks very compelling but I'm sure the numbers are a little inflated.
Looking at the installation, it's just an OBDII dongle. That being the case I would need a OBDII splitter so I could still have my MXLink attached also, but my gut feeling is when driving I can have one OR the other, but not both running at the same time. My reasoning is that I can't have two systems on my MXLink running at the same time, like my engine temps AND my tire pressure/temps.
 
The OBD based tuners I have used in the past on other vehicles plug into the OBD port to upload the tune to the ECU and could be used to monitor the engine, but do not need to stay connected all the time unless you want them to do monitoring. Some had pretty sophisticated data logging.
 
Well the saga still continues with my electrical... :(
Still working on getting my rig right again. I can start the engine, but the dash looks like last months Christmas tree in our living room and I can't get it out of Park.
There's a guy (small shop) in town here supposedly good with electrical that's looking at it and it's suggested it may be a computer power management control or brake module. I was able to use the Park defeat button just left of the shift lever if you don't know about it, and drive it to the shop. Drove great! No limp mode or anything else, just a bunch of lights on the dash.
The brake module may cost as much as low 4 figures and the computer power is low 3 figures.

Doing some research for these modules and pricing I found two different part numbers for the same "computer power management control" with them both good for a 2013 GX460. Any idea why two part numbers?? Here are the links to the part numbers:
I gave the actual part numbers in case some time in the future these links go dead.

*** Also I found this site for Lexus parts that is actually cheaper than Bell Lexus! Not sure if they are consistently cheaper but for these they are.
 
Well the saga still continues with my electrical... :(
Still working on getting my rig right again. I can start the engine, but the dash looks like last months Christmas tree in our living room and I can't get it out of Park.
There's a guy (small shop) in town here supposedly good with electrical that's looking at it and it's suggested it may be a computer power management control or brake module. I was able to use the Park defeat button just left of the shift lever if you don't know about it, and drive it to the shop. Drove great! No limp mode or anything else, just a bunch of lights on the dash.
The brake module may cost as much as low 4 figures and the computer power is low 3 figures.

Doing some research for these modules and pricing I found two different part numbers for the same "computer power management control" with them both good for a 2013 GX460. Any idea why two part numbers?? Here are the links to the part numbers:
I gave the actual part numbers in case some time in the future these links go dead.

*** Also I found this site for Lexus parts that is actually cheaper than Bell Lexus! Not sure if they are consistently cheaper but for these they are.
I don't have much to add except encouragement and a silly anecdote. When our daughter was born my wife was driving an '03 IS300. One night I'd taken it out to grab some carryout and as I was returning everything went sour. The whole dash lit up and it tried to die at a stop light. The headlights would dim when I let off the gas and it would try to stall. I kept a foot on the gas and limped it home the last couple of blocks. I let it die in the garage and it wouldn't restart. The battery was flat. This all pointed to an alternator failure in my experience, I'd had something similar happen in a Subaru just a year or two prior.

Feeling handy, and confident in my diagnosis, I ordered a reman' alternator and picked up a fresh battery at the local shop. Spent the next day installing it and felt pretty good about myself.

But the issues persisted. I had to acknowledge my limits and got it towed to my trusted mechanic the following Monday. He was stumped too and validated my suspicion that it seemed like the alternator, but wouldn't rule it out because I'd bought a cheapo rebuild off of Amazon. So he kept the car overnight and installed an OEM alternator the next day. Still bad.

Two more days of testing circuits (all fuses were intact), he found our culprit: a sippy-cup had rolled under the passenger seat and slowly leaked water onto the control module for the power seats. He actually found a Sport Design IS seat at his favorite yard and just swapped the whole thing out. That did the trick. I paid about $50 for the seat (with better looking leather than the original) and only a couple hundred for his labor.

The original seat is still in his garage, I've seen his assistant eating lunch on it. Whenever I come by and have to remind him who I am I just point to the seat and say "I'm the guy with the sippy-cup" and he beams like he just saw an old friend.

I hate troubleshooting electronics. Best of luck on this, I'm glad it's still moving under its own power. Hopefully it's just something dumb like mine and you don't get charged for 40hrs of troubleshooting and testing circuits.
 
I don't have much to add except encouragement and a silly anecdote. When our daughter was born my wife was driving an '03 IS300. One night I'd taken it out to grab some carryout and as I was returning everything went sour. The whole dash lit up and it tried to die at a stop light. The headlights would dim when I let off the gas and it would try to stall. I kept a foot on the gas and limped it home the last couple of blocks. I let it die in the garage and it wouldn't restart. The battery was flat. This all pointed to an alternator failure in my experience, I'd had something similar happen in a Subaru just a year or two prior.

Feeling handy, and confident in my diagnosis, I ordered a reman' alternator and picked up a fresh battery at the local shop. Spent the next day installing it and felt pretty good about myself.

But the issues persisted. I had to acknowledge my limits and got it towed to my trusted mechanic the following Monday. He was stumped too and validated my suspicion that it seemed like the alternator, but wouldn't rule it out because I'd bought a cheapo rebuild off of Amazon. So he kept the car overnight and installed an OEM alternator the next day. Still bad.

Two more days of testing circuits (all fuses were intact), he found our culprit: a sippy-cup had rolled under the passenger seat and slowly leaked water onto the control module for the power seats. He actually found a Sport Design IS seat at his favorite yard and just swapped the whole thing out. That did the trick. I paid about $50 for the seat (with better looking leather than the original) and only a couple hundred for his labor.

The original seat is still in his garage, I've seen his assistant eating lunch on it. Whenever I come by and have to remind him who I am I just point to the seat and say "I'm the guy with the sippy-cup" and he beams like he just saw an old friend.

I hate troubleshooting electronics. Best of luck on this, I'm glad it's still moving under its own power. Hopefully it's just something dumb like mine and you don't get charged for 40hrs of troubleshooting and testing circuits.
Thanks for being empathetic. At what even small shop mechanics charge per hour, I too am hoping for a cheap and easy fix.
From what I've heard this guy is very fair with his work and pricing.
 
I'm inclined to think 8968160060 as parts shows for 12 & 13

Best would be whatever PN is on the actual ECU

Another for parts but they don't do free shipping. There is a 50% off shipping coupon that has expired so I've requested an updated code.


I'm assuming mechanic is looking at the skid control ECU off of the master cylinder..as close to 4 figure cost

Screenshot 2024-01-19 at 12.58.03 PM.webp
 
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Well the saga still continues with my electrical... :(
Still working on getting my rig right again. I can start the engine, but the dash looks like last months Christmas tree in our living room and I can't get it out of Park.
There's a guy (small shop) in town here supposedly good with electrical that's looking at it and it's suggested it may be a computer power management control or brake module. I was able to use the Park defeat button just left of the shift lever if you don't know about it, and drive it to the shop. Drove great! No limp mode or anything else, just a bunch of lights on the dash.
The brake module may cost as much as low 4 figures and the computer power is low 3 figures.

Doing some research for these modules and pricing I found two different part numbers for the same "computer power management control" with them both good for a 2013 GX460. Any idea why two part numbers?? Here are the links to the part numbers:
I gave the actual part numbers in case some time in the future these links go dead.

*** Also I found this site for Lexus parts that is actually cheaper than Bell Lexus! Not sure if they are consistently cheaper but for these they are.
Good luck! Your build is one of my favorites when I envision a dedicated off-road/trail GX.

Sometimes the solutions are simple...but expensive. I remember trying to deny for the longest time that the ignitor in my 1985 Supra was bad because of what the replacement cost then (can't imagine what one would cost now). Hopefully, you won't have to wait long for a fix and will be back to normal driving soon.
 
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GX healing vibes in your direction. Good luck.

(Interested in learning more about chipping if you ever decide to go in this direction)
 
Truly appreciate all the kind thoughts and well wishes from the tribe.
Never really appreciate how much you enjoy your car (assuming your a car guy) until it's out of commission. Than getting back into after not having it a while, it feels like getting a new car again and all my enthusiasm comes back!
 
Okay, this post is going a little off GX topic, but felt I had to post this.

Down here in San Clemente we have an outlet center . But every Saturday they have a "Cars'n'Coffee" with Ruby's diner supplying cheap coffee.
Every weekend there are literally a couple hundred cars, trucks, off road, overlanders, rat rods, hot rods, vintage car's and trucks, exotic's (e.g. Lambo's, McLaren's, Ferrari's over the top Porsches and Bimmers, etc.), motorcycles, everything!
It's only about 1.5 miles from my home and I do go every once in a while if I get up early enough on Saturday. It's only from about 0900 to 1100. My Father-in-Law wanted to go and tried to talk him out of it because it was expected to rain all day Saturday, which it did. I told him very few if anyone wants to bring their precious prized toys out in the rain. But many did, and the one that really caught my eye was a real life, honest to goodness, in-my-face, sitting bold and red as could be...

A genuine Tesla Cyber Truck!! Look at that windshield wiper!! It's MASSIVE! Like about 4 feet long??
20240120_095258.jpg

20240120_095246.jpg


All I can say was I was truly impressed! It was bigger and brawnier than I expected.

I may have to rethink them again.
 
Okay, this post is going a little off GX topic, but felt I had to post this.

Down here in San Clemente we have an outlet center . But every Saturday they have a "Cars'n'Coffee" with Ruby's diner supplying cheap coffee.
Every weekend there are literally a couple hundred cars, trucks, off road, overlanders, rat rods, hot rods, vintage car's and trucks, exotic's (e.g. Lambo's, McLaren's, Ferrari's over the top Porsches and Bimmers, etc.), motorcycles, everything!
It's only about 1.5 miles from my home and I do go every once in a while if I get up early enough on Saturday. It's only from about 0900 to 1100. My Father-in-Law wanted to go and tried to talk him out of it because it was expected to rain all day Saturday, which it did. I told him very few if anyone wants to bring their precious prized toys out in the rain. But many did, and the one that really caught my eye was a real life, honest to goodness, in-my-face, sitting bold and red as could be...

A genuine Tesla Cyber Truck!! Look at that windshield wiper!! It's MASSIVE! Like about 4 feet long??
View attachment 3538899
View attachment 3538900

All I can say was I was truly impressed! It was bigger and brawnier than I expected.

I may have to rethink them again.
I want a Cybertruck but I don't think it's in the cards right now.
 
Was just looking at the GX550 owners manual and saw that it only has a 21.1 gallon fuel tank and must also be 91+ octane.
Truly hoping that MPG is good or the range is really going to suffer.
 
My 2013 GX gets about 14 mpg running on the Texas toll roads close to 80. If I drive 60 it will get 15.5 so 21 is respectable. They sure look awesome. Tesla vehicles I’m very afraid will be like the Studebaker or Duesenburgs. When the Batteries go bad a car with a hydrogen engine will be the way to go. I have friends and relatives that own Teslas and they are amazing vehicles. Frozen cars that won’t charge are not good. Toyota hybrids have out sold all other electric vehicles.
I hope for my friends and relatives who own them I’m wrong.
I think the truck looks so awesome.
 
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Was just looking at the GX550 owners manual and saw that it only has a 21.1 gallon fuel tank and must also be 91+ octane.
Truly hoping that MPG is good or the range is really going to suffer.
No way in the real world that twin turbo V6 will get anywhere near 20mpg with mixed driving. Looking at every other TTV6 on a midsize or large SUV or truck platform tells us this.

I'll take my 23gal tank with 89 octane just fine.
 
Any thoughts on fixing an airbag code?
This is going back to my original problem going back to Post #646 and spending almost $1100.00 on a new master brake control module, the mechanic can't clear the airbag code or other codes.
He had a heck of a time just trying to bleed the brakes because it says that bleeding the brakes requires Techstream (or whatever he has).
Any thought on clearing the air suspension code and other codes?
He's had my rig for over 2 weeks now.
 

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