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Just received this:
This way I can listen and charge my phone. Before plugging it in, I completely disconnected both the audio and phone (Bluetooth) from my phone and deleted the pairing connection on my phone before plugging the 3.5 mm jack in. I just got back from an 1.5 hour drive and it worked perfectly! I just use the AUX on the head unit.
The only functions on the steering wheel that works are the Up/Down volume on the lift spoke of the steering wheel, as expected.
The phone, nor anything else worked, as expected since the 3.5 mm jack is only audio and not data. But at least I have good music coming through the head unit! :D
Not ideal, but considering we're thinking about going up to my sister's for Thanksgiving, up in San Francisco, about 8 hour drive, we at least have music.

After getting home, just now, I did reconnect my phones Bluetooth, just the phone, not audio, to see if that works for the long term. Trying to eliminate one component at a time. If the phone still works, GREAT! If it also freezes the head unit, I'll disconnect the pairing of phone and ONLY pair the Bluetooth audio and keep the phone unpaired.
My expectations are that they will still lock the head unit, even though it is only one of the components at a time.

I'll keep you all posted.
 
UPDATE:
Regarding the new lithium battery and cold weather effect on lithium batteries that's been discussed above, I'm now in Tahoe and it's been pretty chilly for up here. It's been getting down into the mid/low 20's° F, well below freezing.
It's been a couple days of not driving, with the car just sitting. Yesterday, the wife and I went to do a couple of errand's. Feeling a little anxious, I pulled the door handle, and it unlocked! That's a good sign. We both hopped in, pushed the button, it started right up, very strong start. I'm happy... So far the temp's have had no effect.

UPDATE:
Now, this is for Acrad regarding the head unit locking up. As you suggested (thanks!), I did the diagnostics via OBDLink, cleared them all, except the AFS and rear airbag codes. While driving up here, we went a couple hours before it locked. That's good enough to get us between potty stops and gas, so I'm pleased. Although, I do clear the codes often. But for now, I'm good with it.
Also, I called BeatSonic, since they're near me and spoke to them about the issue. They said if it has anything to do with the USB, their BeatSonic unit may not solve the issue.
 
Well, I have another clue to what is causing the display screen to go dead.
A quick recap: When driving, it will on occasion just top playing music. whether it's streaming from my phone or FM. The screen is still showing the song, station, etc. and the timer of how long the song or whatever still continuing to count, but no music and none of the controls work, e.g. steering wheel volume, controls on the screen and it will not turn off. It stays this way until I turn off the motor and restart, which I'm not always in the position to do, especially if I'm on the freeway.

So driving to do my Army reservist training this morning, it did it again on the freeway. I had the OBDLink MX running on my phone with the usually meters running: trans temp and trans oil temp, speed, battery voltage, etc., and I noticed the red battery light turn on, on my dash binnacle. I looked at my phone and it showed that my battery voltage dropped from the usual 14.7 - 14.8 volts to 13.5 - 13.6 volts.
Very interesting...
Any thoughts? I do have that chip to increase battery voltage (VoltageBoosterPRO - https://voltageboosterpro.com/), 240 amp (2020 Lexus GX460 4.6L V8 Alternator | Tucson Alternator - https://www.tucsonalternator.com/product/822832/2020-Lexus-GX460-4.6L-V8-Alternator/3-ORG/) alternator and LiPo battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DTYRJV6Y?tag=ihco-20).
 
I would inspect you vbb pro. Maybe remove it and clean it if its corroded.

Its a pretty simple component. I could be wrong but it though it used forward bias from a diode to bump the voltage output from the alternator up.

Let me know if you need me to remove one of mine and take some measurements with my fluke.
 
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You could also just remove the VB pro for a few weeks, reinstall a normal fuse, and see if the bug goes away. I ran my AGM battery without a VB pro for several years, it was (in retrospect) just never 100% charged, but it had no problem starting the rig.
 
I would inspect you vbb pro. Maybe remove it and clean it if its corroded.

Its a pretty simple component. I could be wrong but it though it used forward bias from a diode to bump the voltage output from the alternator up.

Let me know if you need me to remove one of mine and take some measurements with my fluke.
You could also just remove the VB pro for a few weeks, reinstall a normal fuse, and see if the bug goes away. I ran my AGM battery without a VB pro for several years, it was (in retrospect) just never 100% charged, but it had no problem starting the rig.
My concerns with removing the VB Pro is if I remember correctly, the LiPo needs a lot of juice for charging, and don't want to compromise and 6 month old battery so soon. Although I may try it for a couple days.
Problem is, it's so sporadic. Wife and I traveled almost the entire trip to Lake Tahoe without any issues. I hop in my rig for a 40 minute drive to my Army base and it happens within 10 minutes of driving. I can go weeks or longer without it happening. So even if I do remove the VB Pro, I'd probably have to drive around for month's to know if it actually fixed the issue.

Thank you for the offer Hiluxforever!
 
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