Quote for wheel bearings reasonable?

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Joined
Sep 23, 2020
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Location
Seattle
Greetings,

My LX470 has 270k on it and runs like a top but recently I discovered the front drivers side wheel bearing is toast and needs replacement. So I figure it makes sense to do them both.
I took it to my local auto shop who I like, but they don't specialize for in Toyotas or cruisers ect, but the quote I received seems pretty high imo.. what's everyone's thoughts?

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They don't specify the brand of bearings that they will be using. I would only use Toyota, Koyo which is what Toyota uses, or Timken which is Koyo in a Timken box. As for the estimate, it seems high, but all automotive repair shops have gotten out of hand. Not only with labor rates and book time, but also with the increase that they tack onto their parts cost.
 
Are you 100% positive they are toast, and don't just need a retorque?

I went in for an alignment and they said I needed ball joints... after inspecting myself, it was a loose wheel bearing. For the price of a grease cap and a 55mm socket I was back in business. I check them every 5000 miles now.
 
Op, a good recommendation is that if your front rotors are also nearing the time for a replacement, now is the time to do it. Our front bearings are a little bit more complicated in that they are located inside the front rotors. And as stated above, if they are not adjusted perfectly either by the FSM standard, or by another known standard that people successfully use, they will loosen relatively quickly in 10-20k or less.
 
As for the estimate, it seems high, but all automotive repair shops have gotten out of hand. Not only with labor rates and book time, but also with the increase that they tack onto their parts cost.

So true. Last I checked my local Toyota dealership was charging about $180-$200/hr. And that's book time so actual tech labor time is usually less. These days especially you can save some serious cash by learning and doing things yourself.
 
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Denver Toyota/Lexus dealerships, are running in 2025 range of $140 to $240 hrly.

More important than cost est., is a good job. One that last, reducing long term cost and increasing reliability.
You've not disclosed year or anything other than "runs like a top" Yet est. states "Traced concern to". Hum.... What was concern?

I don't see some of the required parts and procedure cost. They're small, but required, which do add to total cost.
Perhaps they including without disclosing or will show-up in actually bill.
2-lube, axle bearing & bushing.
2-Locking washers
2-Hub flange gaskets.

2-Snap ring (axle to hub flange).
2-Grease caps.

Very likely, these should be replaced:
2-Claw washer, for sure loose side, but both side will likely need replacing.

Should be noted:
1-Wheel bearings set for RH side, also. Likely at 270K both LH & RH side wheel bearings will be past useful life. Looseness itself, doesn't indicate bad wheel bearings. It indicates, improper wheel bearing PM and or service.
2-Possibly new hub flanges. At 270K, excessive wear of HF splines are common When wheel bearings found excessive loose. Or they been beat on, wrapping seat for cone washers and of faces to hub. Very common when HF damaged, when INDY shop uses improper procedure to pop cone washers.
12- cone washer if replacing hub flange or they excessively scored or beat on damage.
2-Restoring face of wheel hubs, at hub flange and wheel mounting face., if needed. Common to find damaged, on these mounting surface. When tech using wrong procedure removing hub flange and or brake rotor.

 
It also appears they're quoting you for three bearings, when only two are required. There is also a paper gasket that should be replaced behind the drive flange whenever removed, in addition to the grease seals on the inside of each hub. Some of this is easily overlooked if they aren't familiar with cruisers, so I'm not trying to be too hard on them. That extra bearing is adding $156.98 to your parts total.

The main point made earlier in this thread is this forum has learned the key number to hit is the FSM specified breakaway preload as measured with a fish scale, not the torque value given for the adjusting nut. It takes quite a bit more torque on that nut than most techs are likely to apply, and that is when it can loosen quickly.
 
The quote above is to replace the driver side bearings and only clean and re-pack the passenger side. Replacing the passenger side bearings will cost you another $400+ based on their quote for the driver side, and as others have said, this is the time to do both rotors (and pads), which will add substantially more to the bill. I'm thinking their bill will look more like $2k with all parts replaced.

Do this job yourself and do it right for $750 or less in parts or pay this shop $2k and hope they do it right. The choice is yours.
 
Ouch! That’s motivation for one to do it on their own. I would also think about replacing brake rotors/pads if it’s time, since the wheel bearings outer race are inside the rotors.
 
You can do it!!!! It’s so rewarding after only paying for parts and bad jokes with your pals. It’s very doable, not that complicated. Messy, yes. Get a friend who know mostly what they’re doing and follow the fsm.

The slee bearing grease tool thing is great. Gets the grease in the back there.
 
Greetings,

My LX470 has 270k on it and runs like a top but recently I discovered the front drivers side wheel bearing is toast and needs replacement. So I figure it makes sense to do them both.
I took it to my local auto shop who I like, but they don't specialize for in Toyotas or cruisers ect, but the quote I received seems pretty high imo..
Do you have any maintenance history on this 100? You can verify loose bearing by jacking up that wheel and trying to move the tire with hands at 12 and 6.
If you trust the shop, have them check your rotors and ball joints too, but at those prices I wouldn’t hire them on for any more work than is necessary. Also would not replace the other wheel bearing, just lube as they recommend. And yes, absolutely pay extra if necessary for good quality bearings.
 
As a reference, a front bearing kit from Cruiser Outfitters is just under $100 per wheel (Koyo bearings) and includes virtually everything you need except grease and a set of the circlips for the CV axle end. But, for over-the-counter Toyota purchase, the parts prices shown here may be about right (was shocked to see that MSRP on the seal is nearly $50). For someone who is somewhat handy and has the tools but had never done it before (me), it took a solid day to remove and replace both front wheels' bearings, so the labor is probably about right at today's rates. The biggest issue for me would be knowing that the shop did it correctly and torqued the hubs to the proper torque. I did it myself because I had zero confidence any of my local shops would do it correctly.
 
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