Quick FJ62 auto trans removal question (edit: removal steps/list) (1 Viewer)

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About to drop the auto trans out of a 62, have everything stripped out and ready to raise the jack and tackle the bell housing bolt removal.

Question: How necessary is it to remove the exhaust down pipes from the exh manifolds? (...so the motor/trans assembly can tilt down).
With a u-joint and some extensions, looks like I can access all the bolts from below and above through the trans hump cover hole without the tilt. Do I need the motor tilt for any other clearance issues, etc?

Thanks for any pro tips here in the final steps, trying to be efficient as possible.


EDIT: There is no need to loosen and release the exhaust for the transmission removal....as answered later in this thread by those more in the know than me, and now from my own experience detailed below.
 
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I didn't take off the down pipes or tilt the motor. Lowered the jack slowly as the tranny rolled back if I remember correctly it came right out.
 

cruisermatt

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It's not bad it just unbolts and falls out. make sure to remove the torque converter bolts before the bellhousing bolts and separate it from the flexplate before dropping the transmission so you don't ruin the converter for the next guy
 

Godwin

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It's not bad it just unbolts and falls out. make sure to remove the torque converter bolts before the bellhousing bolts and separate it from the flexplate before dropping the transmission so you don't ruin the converter for the next guy

To rephrase - gravity will be both your friend and nemesis in this endeavor.
 

cruisermatt

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To rephrase - gravity will be both your friend and nemesis in this endeavor.

gravity isn't a problem if the auto isn't going back in :lol:

I actually find the automatics easier to install then the H42's because of the flat transmission pans and lack of input shaft
 
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Good reminder!...I keep trying to forget about those TC/flex plate bolts. And this POS is NOT going back in.

@EscapeWagon62 Wasn't able to get a crack at this weekend after all. Will let you know how it goes and any steps that may help you later.

Good news is the original ex.manifold nuts broke free without too much argument. I'll probably remove the exhaust anyway once the cross member and trans are out.
 

EscapeWagon62

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It's not bad it just unbolts and falls out. make sure to remove the torque converter bolts before the bellhousing bolts and separate it from the flexplate before dropping the transmission so you don't ruin the converter for the next guy
@cruisermatt
I‘m having trouble finding that procedure in the FSM and Im sure it would be clear once I get in under the truck.
Looking st the diagram I would remove the 6 bolts via the inspection plate underneath the flywheel To separate the torque converter from the drive olate?
 

cruisermatt

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@cruisermatt
I‘m having trouble finding that procedure in the FSM and Im sure it would be clear once I get in under the truck.
Looking st the diagram I would remove the 6 bolts via the inspection plate underneath the flywheel To separate the torque converter from the drive olate?

yes just like every automatic transmission
 
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@cruisermatt
I‘m having trouble finding that procedure in the FSM and Im sure it would be clear once I get in under the truck.
Looking st the diagram I would remove the 6 bolts via the inspection plate underneath the flywheel To separate the torque converter from the drive olate?

IIRC there's not a procedure described in the FSM, it's an exploded diagram that basically says "remove ALL this sh*t".
 
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@cruisermatt
I‘m having trouble finding that procedure in the FSM and Im sure it would be clear once I get in under the truck.
Looking st the diagram I would remove the 6 bolts via the inspection plate underneath the flywheel To separate the torque converter from the drive olate?

It’s not the lower inspection cover to remove the bolts, it’s the one above the lower cover on the driver side. You can see it in this pic, upper right. Mine was buried under 30 years of schmoo.

CCC89234-48B2-4BCB-801C-261B391C118C.jpeg
 
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Success!! Got the transmission and t-case chunk dropped this weekend. First time I’ve dropped a transmission, did it solo...fun stuff, not overly difficult just lots of layers to peel back before the final pull. The 800lb adjustable trans Jack is a must!...Harbor Freight jack in this case.
I imagine you guys that have done this a few times times can knock this job out pretty quickly.

The chunk...
908998E7-9785-4A88-9A3F-5C6C4440B52F.jpeg


The separation, it pulls away super easy...

B62BEC3F-68AA-4AF4-A0E6-2D0AA2BF707B.jpeg


View from the bomb bay door, the upper bellhousing bolts are easily accessed through the trans hump cover....

1A22CD05-C4FE-4B65-A7C8-9CA047523282.jpeg
 
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For posterity’s sake, I’ll list the items that need to be removed/released in order to pull the automatic transmission and transfer case out of an FJ62. I never found a “list” on Mud, but did use a few tips from others that made my removal much easier and damage free. Hopefully this is useful for someone else down the road....

Keep in mind, I did this based on the auto trans NOT going back in, I’m converting to a 5 speed manual, and this was my first transmission drop so may or may not be the most efficient way, but it worked for me...and nothin’ broke! :hillbilly:

Not entirely in order, but you get the idea, YMMV....
- disconnect battery
- drain transmission and transfer case
- remove F & R driveshafts
- remove trans cooler lines and associated brackets (good riddance!!)
- remove starter ( +cable, ground strap, small connector)
- remove trans dipstick tube (two bolts, one connection is the upper BH bolt, so maybe do this later)
- disconnect speedo cable and ground strap at back of transfer case
- disconnect trans kick down cable from the throttle cam
- disconnect the two soft lines going to tcase vacuum shift module
- remove tcase shift lever pin/cotter pin, remove large pivot nut, remove shifter boot/cover screws inside, wiggle tcase shift lever off and out. Good idea to soak the big shifter pivot ahead of time with penetrating oil.
- Remove both front seats, center console, and front carpet. I removed the pain in the a$$ lower heater duct, but realized it’s not necessary.
- remove plastic cover on transmission shifter and remove shifter pivot nut on d-side, let linkage fall through floor
- remove trans hump cover...
....***this is a good time to separate the O2 sensor connection that runs over the top of the transmission, the O2 sensor wiring can get ripped apart when the trans drops. Careful these wires are still not trapped under the shift linkage, mine were.
- remove two inspection covers on lower BH, remove 6 flexplate/flywheel bolts through driver side inspec. cover to separate from torque converter, use a large flat blade screwdriver to advance the flex plate through lower cover to reach each bolt.
- disconnect the 3-4 electrical connectors from main wiring harness (I did this after dropping it, but made sure there was plenty of slack in wires and nothing was going to get ripped apart)
- position the jack under the trans pan, run a ratchet strap around trans and jack plate, the jack is about to hold EVERYTHING.
- remove the 8 large BH bolts, top 2 bolts are longer
- Remove the 8 crossmember to frame bolts. I left the crossmember attached to trans in order to have a large handle to control things if needed, and put a floor jack under the heavier passenger side.
- start to wiggle things loose and backwards and lower the jack. Done.
- enjoy victory beer:beer::beer:

Didn’t really need the floor jack under the heavy side, the HF jack is pretty stout, but was solo and didn’t want that thing flopping over.
Also I didn’t jack up the truck (yet), the OME suspension gave me plenty of room to work and liked not having things so high, much easier to work on. The truck will have to be jacked up significantly to get the trans chunk and jack out from under it.
 
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Got a chance to bust loose the flexplate (“flywheel”) bolts. Without an impact gun to spin them off, the flex plate has to be blocked from turning with the wrench.

A large universal socket wrench (crescent) makes a great flex plate locking instrument. These were easier to loosen than I expected.

FB3B6C2F-BAA5-449B-99B0-0A8673FC8C8E.jpeg


48FB6BF5-34AE-4073-926F-DFE5634683F1.jpeg
 
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3FE flywheel bolt size:
(this info is mentioned in other threads but the info is very sporadic and not very detailed, just throwing out another detail on this issue for later model 3FE trans conversions)

This is the confirmation I was awaiting. My later build 3FE does in fact require the larger diameter flywheel bolts. Sometime around 10/‘89 Toyota increased the flex plate/flywheel bolt diameter, my FJ62 is dated 12/’89.
The 2F bolts and earlier 3FE bolts will not work with the later 3FE crank flange...and the later 3FE bolts won’t fit through the standard Toyota flywheel. (Don’t know exact bolt diameter differences)

For a manual trans conversion, the bolt holes on the flywheel will have to be drilled to enlarge, and I didn’t want to reuse the 3FE flex plate bolts so I sourced new larger Toyota flywheel bolts, found these on Amayama. Although looking at the old vs new bolts side by side they are pretty damn similar. The hex head on the new bolts is shorter/thinner.
(photo below)

Old (larger) 3FE bolts on right, won’t slide through flywheel, new bolt on left with thread lock & part# :

6ACE15A6-7009-4BC7-BA87-4E7B1368BC5F.jpeg
 

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