Pulling just the engine (1 Viewer)

[astr]

I've want to pull the engine on my '94 FZJ80 without pulling the transmission and transfer case. The FSM only talks about removing the engine, transmission and transfercase as an assembly. Can I pull just the engine and leave the transmission and transfer case in place? Any catches in doing so? Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[4LowandSlow]

You can, You have to drop the cross member to get the upper bell housing bolts. and have to make sure you disconnect the main harness to the transmission harness. Make sure you support the bell housing where it meets the engine. You'll have to take the 6 torque converter bolts out and spin the motor over by hand to get them all, you can get them out through the access plate on the bottom front of the transmission. the catch is just lining everything up when putting the motor back in and making sure the torque converter stays seated in the trans. ive done it both ways pulling the motor with trans and transfer case and pulling the motor and also just pulling the motor only. both are a lot of work, most prefer to pull all at once and others prefer just the motor.

 

[lumbee1]

You can, You have to drop the cross member to get the upper bell housing bolts. and have to make sure you disconnect the main harness to the transmission harness. Make sure you support the bell housing where it meets the engine. You'll have to take the 6 torque converter bolts out and spin the motor over by hand to get them all, you can get them out through the access plate on the bottom front of the transmission. the catch is just lining everything up when putting the motor back in and making sure the torque converter stays seated in the trans. ive done it both ways pulling the motor with trans and transfer case and pulling the motor and also just pulling the motor only. both are a lot of work, most prefer to pull all at once and others prefer just the motor.

This guy knows what he is a talking about.

 

[mjosoba]

4HE1 going in?

 

[alia176]

If you don't want to open up your A/C system, you can remove the front radiator top support, then lay the A/C condenser down while leaving the connections tight. The A/C compressor can just rest on the passenger fender well.

Regarding the tranny cross member, only drop it just so you can tilt the tranny down which gives you room to access the bolts that are on top of the bell housing. Once you remove all bell housing bolts, you can put the cross member back in which will support the tranny once again. Pro tip: remove the radiator fan first so that when you tilt the s*** out of the engine/tranny, it won't hit the top of the fan shroud

I'm assuming you will also disconnect the ECU harness, pull it through the firewall then rest it on top of the engine so that it goes with the engine? I think that's the best way vs separating all the connectors from the ECU harness.

HTH.

 

[slow95z]

no way in hell i will ever try to pull just the engine again. the top bellhousing bolts require you to drop the trans down a bit anyways and if i have it that far i might as well just pull it all but thats just me.

 

[alia176]

I read OP's other thread and he pulled the head already so this one should be a snap!

 

[Pin_Head]

Tip: To get to the upper bellhousing bolts with minimum grief, pull back the carpet and cut two 1.5 inch diameter holes in the firewall with a bimetal hole saw right over the bolt heads. After you are done R&Ring the bolts, plug the holes with Dorman firewall plugs or use a piece of sheet metal with glue and sheet metal screws.

 

[ajax1]

I am fan of just pulling the engine. Drop the cross member slightly then use wobble socket on a long extension for the top tranny bolts.

 

[1972FJ55]

I am fan of just pulling the engine. Drop the cross member slightly then use wobble socket on a long extension for the top tranny bolts.

That's how I pulled mine.

 

[alia176]

That's how I pulled mine.

Yup, same here. With an impact wobbly socket + two 1/2" extensions = 10 min of zipping action and DONE!

 

[nemoblackdog]

It's been years since I did this operation, but for me having two 1/2" extensions, a wobbly socket and my impact had too much flex for the impact to have enough, well, impact, to break those bolts free. (I've got pretty beefy impact gun, too.) I had to do it with muscle alone and it was a bitch. But I eventually got them done.

Glad to hear others had less drama with that approach.

I swore if I ever had to do this again, I'd either pull it with the tranny or put the holes into my firewall to get to those bolts.

 

[TurboDennis]

It's possible to remove the upper bellhousing bolts without lowering the transmission. You need a special extension that is designed specifically for this job and is made by most major tool brands. It's a 1/2" extension, about 36" long, and has 3/8" drive on the bellhousing end, which will allow you to use a flex 3/8 drive 17mm socket. 3/8 socket is much skinnier than a 1/2 one, so it fits the bolts on the bellhousing perfectly without interfering with the bellhousing. With this setup you can get both upper bolts on the bellhousing without lowering the tranny (although it might take some wiggling to get the socket onto the bolts. Easier if you have someone helping you guide the socket from the top)

 

[astr]

Thanks for all the advice. By dropping the cross member, I was able to reach and break loose the top two bell housing bolts. I'm going to delay pulling the engine until after I pull and disassemble the donor engine. I only have one engine stand so donor first then the engine I'm going to put back in.

4HE1 going in?

I'm tempted but my 4HE1 is still destined for the FJ62. Maybe some day a 4HK1 that I have could go in FZJ80. Right now I have to get the 80 back running as the FZJ80 DD is quickly rusting away. I need to lift my feet every time I go through a water puddle if I want stay dry

 

[TurboDennis]

I actually just had to do this a couple of days ago, and the top two bolts were a breeze with the right tools. Again, no need to lower the transmission at all. In fact, you can actually see both bolts when you look from the bottom of the transfer case (first pic).
Took me a total of maybe 5 minutes to remove those 2 bolts. The bolt just bellow the top bolt on the passenger side was actually more difficult.

 

[mjosoba]

Thanks for all the advice. By dropping the cross member, I was able to reach and break loose the top two bell housing bolts. I'm going to delay pulling the engine until after I pull and disassemble the donor engine. I only have one engine stand so donor first then the engine I'm going to put back in.



I'm tempted but my 4HE1 is still destined for the FJ62. Maybe some day a 4HK1 that I have could go in FZJ80. Right now I have to get the 80 back running as the FZJ80 DD is quickly rusting away. I need to lift my feet every time I go through a water puddle if I want stay dry

If it ever comes to it, Compushift told me they make a controller for the AW450. That would be pretty sweet.

 

[TossYoda]

I'm pulling an engine now, first time, and wow is this thread helpful, thanks to all who contributed. One question, how do you turn the motor by hand, what is the process?

 

[TurboDennis]

I'm pulling an engine now, first time, and wow is this thread helpful, thanks to all who contributed. One question, how do you turn the motor by hand, what is the process?

You put a 30mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn it with a ratchet. Only turn the engine clockwise

 

[36brua]

Socket / ratchet on front crank bolt. Removing spark plugs makes it easier
GL HOpe it goes well

 

[36brua]

HA @TurboDennis is on it !1