Project Stitch: FJ40 2UZ swap, link, stretch

[EWheeler]

No criticism, just curiosity. What were the pros of the split case vs. an HF2a in your decision making process?

Cool to see some new tech and builds going on, thanks for taking the time to share.

 

[cruisermatt]

Neat stuff. Good work on the adapter other then -1 point for 1.5 thread pitch hardware on a all-Toyota build

I can think of a bunch of reasons to keep the splitcase, lower gears available, already part-time, significantly shorter rear output length. The only drawback (was) lack of adapter to this trans.

 

[aztoyman]

Wow! That's some serious problem solving combined with some serious skills and resourcefulness. NICE job!

 

[Toyoland66]

@cruisermatt The bolts that attach the tail housing to the trans are 1.5 pitch. It makes sense for something threading into aluminum. I could have done a dual thread stud but didn’t find any the length I needed.

The shorter output is definitely an advantage. Photo of a a750/hf2a for comparison @ThreeEyedBandit posted this in another thread

Cost probably isn’t an advantage if I add everything up the AA adapters were about $350. The custom adapters were about $430. The spud shaft was about $150 and the bearing $30 so just shy of $1k in adapter parts.

 

[Bripars40]

@cruisermatt The bolts that attach the tail housing to the trans are 1.5 pitch. It makes sense for something threading into aluminum. I could have done a dual thread stud but didn’t find any the length I needed.

The shorter output is definitely an advantage. Photo of a a750/hf2a for comparison @ThreeEyedBandit posted this in another thread

Cost probably isn’t an advantage if I add everything up the AA adapters were about $350. The custom adapters were about $430. The spud shaft was about $150 and the bearing $30 so just shy of $1k in adapter parts.

Man, that does save a ton of length! I have a 1998 100 series drivetrain in my 40 and we had to shift the motor forward a bunch to keep a reasonable rear driveshaft. I also pushed the rear axle back 3” to help too.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Not sure how I have missed this, awesome work! For reference can you measure from the OAL from the rear output to the front of the transmission? And to the front of the bellhousing?

Should be shorter than the HF2AV on the back of the A750 which will be great. I'll go measure my A750 with HF2AV later today.

 

[Toyoland66]

Not sure how I have missed this, awesome work! For reference can you measure from the OAL from the rear output to the front of the transmission? And to the front of the bellhousing?

Should be shorter than the HF2AV on the back of the A750 which will be great. I'll go measure my A750 with HF2AV later today.

Hard to measure and photo but confirmed with straight edge:

37 1/16” from face of bellhousing to output flange

Bellhousing is 5 5/8” thick

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Approximately 37-1/2"(I'll get a more accurate number later) from rear output to front of transmission, so the non LC A750 with your split case adapter is a huge advantage for shorter wheel base rigs.

Plus later if you decide, you have a few more doubler/t-case options.

Great work with this!

 

[Toyoland66]

Progress is expected to be slow over the next handful of weeks, my plan is to get the engine baselined and re-sealed. Not having the maintenance history I am planning on getting all of the standard 90k stuff plus some extras replaced, and replacing all of the seals that can leak, all while trying to avoid the "while I'm in there" mentality as much as practical.

Step 1: Replacing the cam, front and rear main seals. This requires pulling the cams, so "while I'm in there" I am also going to replace the valve stem seals. Following this tutorial: How to Replace Toyota and Lexus Valve Seals – Lextreme - https://www.lextreme.com/how-to-replace-toyota-and-lexus-valve-seals/ With this I am also replacing the valve cover gaskets and VVTI solenoid screens. Replacing the front and rear mains requires pulling the oil pump which means pulling and re-sealing the oil pans.

Step 2: Re-paint the block. I have been working on cleaning up and degreasing and will need to do this several more times before the block is ready to paint. I will be using eastwood 2k engine paint.

Step 3: 90k service+. I will be replacing the water pump (had an ITM pump), timing belt, idlers and tensioner, thermostat, pcv valve, drive belt tensioner, idler, spark plugs, fan bracket, fan clutch, and cooling fan (was bent in wreck). I will also be replacing the rear coolant crossover tube with a non VVTI version, I will be eliminating the SAIS as part of the swap - rewiring and reflash of the ECU.

I will also be rebuilding the starter and resealing the intake manifold but will wait to do that until I have the wiring harness reworked.

Next steps after that will be building the engine mounts and getting the engine and transmission mounted which will require stripping down the 40 and removing the 2F. I also still need to get rid of 4runner chassis to make room in my shop. More to come...

 

[klip]

Let me say that Send Cut Send is awesome and an absolute game changer for building stuff like this with precision. If you are able to draw something in CAD it opens up a bunch of options for custom parts.

Such an awesome service! Great work, looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.