Builds Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40 (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

Good idea.

 

[wngrog]

So I'm just now trying to get my wipers alive. I unplugged the 4 prong clip and tried to jump start my wiper motor to see if it works or if I need to buy one.

A single hot jump to any of the posts did not make it move.

Do I need to run a ground too?

 

[MScruiser]

Yes, you'll need a ground.

Careful though, if you put power through the ground, while the power is grounded, you can eff that motor up. Best bet will be to find a wiring diagram with the appropriate wire colors/tracers.

 

[wngrog]

I plugged a direct hot into one post at a time that the diagram says is a power then I used my test light on the 4th post and the light lit up but the motor did not switch even when the test lamp lit up.

 

[MScruiser]

Then your motor is bad. Disassemble it, and spray everything down with some Kroil. Make sure the brushes are making contact, and that the bushings are free.

Does the motor turn freely?

 

[fountainhead]

The motor is ground triggered. One of the four pins is constant power and the other three are ground connections - one for low speed, one for high speed, and one for wiper blade park.

If you're planning to get them working using a simple toggle switch, then run the hot wire through a toggle switch to pin connected to the solid blue wire in the connector and ground out the pin connected to the blue wire with a red stripe. Toggling the switch should activate high speed, but you'll have to 'time' when you flip the switch off in order to manually park the wiper blades.

 

[wngrog]

I pulled the motor out and it actually looks good in there but these two tiny clips were loose inside. That can't be good.

 

[MScruiser]

Make sure that the end of these spring loaded arms is making positive contact with the motor shaft.

No idea what those clips are; probably important though.

 

[wngrog]

Clips are in the fins. Figured that out.

 

[wngrog]

I'm going to source a new (working ) motor and hot wire the existing switch to work.

 

[under_psi]

I need to figure mine out too. no action on mine either....

can't pull a hot signal at the connector either....

does not having a washer pump motor inline with it affect it? I see on my diagram that it is supposed to have one and the hot line splits off to it....

 

[wngrog]

No pump should not matter.

 

[wngrog]

So excited. I got my brake lights working.

 

[wngrog]

Everything is getting wired outside of the factory harness so far so I realized quickly that everything I am wiring up needs a hot wire so I decided to relocate the new fuse box I got under the hood so it's easier to deal with.

I've got the brake lights on one fuse. Running and headlights on the other. As I said I will loom it all after I get everything I want to work working.

I'm in search of a wiper motor now. That's all I need to hit the road anytime now.

 

[under_psi]

get it boy!

figure that wiper motor out....ill let you bang on mine next.....

 

[wngrog]

I carved out the switch and will run wires directly from it to the harness that goes up into the windshield.

Once I get a good motor I will use the OEM switch and just wire heat directly to it.

 

[ntsaint]

Nice work.

 

[wngrog]

Tech questions tend to get lost in here but I've got one.

I've decided that it's dumb not to use the factory gauges for this. Of course new wires are in order but I'm good with that.

I've got 3-4 clusters. I can farm gauges from all to find 4 that work.

I have no idea how to test them to see if they work though. Hell, the ones I have in there may work.

Tips appreciated.

 

[Texican]

One the biggest "little" job I ever took in was customer, that bought a late cluster ( round plug on back) to replace a custom cluster in an old era 40. I wound up with a wiring diagram to match the cluster, and ran each wire from cluster to sender, or source (fuse box etc)... several hours.

 

[wngrog]

Yeah that's what I was wanting to do. Any way to test these little gauges? Beno told me they are still available new $$$$$