Project - Building back in reliability (1 Viewer)

FJ Silver

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238
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New Harmony, Utah
Hey Guys,

I'm trying to build some reliability back into my FJ62 for summer Utah adventures.

Replacing some accessories, gaskets, filters, fluids, knuckles job, dynamating, cleaning etc.

I ran into a couple of questions and would love your input as I progress.

1. The air intake chamber gasket, where it meets with the intake manifold, seemed to have a soft paper/cardboard to the metal side when I took it off, see image below.
Searching around on MUD I just can't find a consensus around which gasket is best to use here? 1 or 2 and or with any gasket maker permatex stuff?

2. My Smog Pump seems to work fine, however when I spin it, the bearing sounds super dry...
What is normal here, since it mentioned on the pump to not lubricate it? Just don't want it to seize up at the worst time possible.

3. What would the downside be to adding sound proofing material on top of the factory sound proofing material?

Thanks!

gasket2.jpg

intkae.jpg

Indoor.jpg
 
Joined
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1. You can get that gasket from Toyota, an aftermarket gasket should be fine. Do not use gasket goop here. Get a gasket, only one.

2. All smog pumps are old now, many have failed/seized. Eliminate it, or ship yours off to have it quality rebuilt. Search around, I forget the name of the rebuilder many here have used.

3. No need to remove the original sound material. Clean well and lay over the top of it. Also no need to wallpaper every square inch of your truck with that sh*t, the overkill of sound deadener application on this site is crazy. Think about trapped moisture under all that stuff with no way to breathe.
 

FJ Silver

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
New Harmony, Utah
1. You can get that gasket from Toyota, an aftermarket gasket should be fine. Do not use gasket goop here. Get a gasket, only one.

2. All smog pumps are old now, many have failed/seized. Eliminate it, or ship yours off to have it quality rebuilt. Search around, I forget the name of the rebuilder many here have used.

3. No need to remove the original sound material. Clean well and lay over the top of it. Also no need to wallpaper every square inch of your truck with that sh*t, the overkill of sound deadener application on this site is crazy. Think about trapped moisture under all that stuff with no way to breathe.
Great feedback, thank you
 
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@FJ Silver Read through this smog pump fail thread, the rebuilder I mentioned is listed in here....

 

FJ Silver

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New Harmony, Utah
Thanks! @Skniper, Appreciate it.
Below is definitely worth the peace of mind. Seems cheap.


I'm still cleaning, taking apart, preparing for sound proofing.
Debating taking off the interior roof liner... mine is in great shape and don't wanna mess it up. I do know I've had mice in there though and at least some sound deadening up there would help.

Creating a big list for Cruiser Outfitters...
 

FJ Silver

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New Harmony, Utah
Hey guys,
I'm tearing into my knuckels.
Following OTRAMM his videos he is also centering the knuckles to not prematurely wear out the inner axle seal. How important is this? I don't see this in any write ups here on MUD.
Thanks

 
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Southern Colorado
No need to remove the original sound material. Clean well and lay over the top of it. Also no need to wallpaper every square inch of your truck with that sh*t, the overkill of sound deadener application on this site is crazy. Think about trapped moisture under all that stuff with no way to breathe.

Thank you! The point of sound deadener is to change or reduce resonant frequencies of panels. Toyota's thick tar mat does just that, and so do aftermarket versions. Use 'em all, but pay attention (as mentioned) to areas (perhaps near door seals) where water can get trapped under it. A bigger problem in wet climates and with un-garaged vehicles.
 

mattressking

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San Diego, Calif.
Hey guys,
I'm tearing into my knuckels.
Following OTRAMM his videos he is also centering the knuckles to not prematurely wear out the inner axle seal. How important is this? I don't see this in any write ups here on MUD.
Thanks

It's important as they need to be shimmed correctly so the axle seal doesn't wear and leak prematurely. If you kept the original orientation of the shims, you should be good. Generally it's one thick shim on the bottom and a thick/thin on top. Bottom shims the height, top shims the preload. If you question the orientation or condition generally, then yes, it would be wise to get the centering tool and make sure it is setup correctly.
 
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No need to remove the original sound material. Clean well and lay over the top of it. Also no need to wallpaper every square inch of your truck with that sh*t, the overkill of sound deadener application on this site is crazy. Think about trapped moisture under all that stuff with no way to breathe.

Thank you! The point of sound deadener is to change or reduce resonant frequencies of panels. Toyota's thick tar mat does just that, and so do aftermarket versions. Use 'em all, but pay attention (as mentioned) to areas (perhaps near door seals) where water can get trapped under it. A bigger problem in wet climates and with un-garaged vehicles.
I forget what the % of coverage should be for the tar mat/Dynamat/quietcrap type deadeners but it’s not much relative to a given panel. I did my inner doors and used 3 separate smaller patches on top, middle, and bottom door sections...doors sound like a bank vault. And there’s lots of open sheet metal left to “breathe”, no seams, no trapped air pockets to sweat, etc.
 
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I read 10% coverage in large areas for Dynamat.

The doors of my 1976 FJ55 sounded like a oil drum when you slammed them (the sheet metal rang like a bell), and I stuck a 10"x10" piece of ice-and-water shield (roofing material) in the middle of the unsupported front door skin, and after that, the doors shut with a nice 'clunk'. Ice and water shield is the poor man's Dynamat - and hey, I had some in my barn that was paid for, as it were.
 

g-man

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Keep your shims in the correct order and you shouldn't have to worry about centering the knuckle. An exception to this would be if you had some kind of carnage/damage from everything coming loose and chewing up other parts. Don't ask me how I know.
 

FJ Silver

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New Harmony, Utah
Noted on the shims @g-man thank you.
I'm stuck on the cone washers.. will buy a brass driver today when picking up my kid from school and try again.

I know weight is what dampens the most sounds. I'm not so worried about the cargo area floor, but I'll slap some on the cargo side paneling inside and whatever sounds super hollow, tin can. I'm not gonna line the whole cruiser for sure...

I'm keeping the factory deadening in there and mostly put some heavy closed-cell foam sound deadening mats on the floor and the aluminum stuff in the doors, firewall.

Thanks guys!

Endless death valley dust in there......

Interior.jpg
 

MoaByte

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Moab
Noted on the shims @g-man thank you.
I'm stuck on the cone washers.. will buy a brass driver today when picking up my kid from school and try again.

I know weight is what dampens the most sounds. I'm not so worried about the cargo area floor, but I'll slap some on the cargo side paneling inside and whatever sounds super hollow, tin can. I'm not gonna line the whole cruiser for sure...

I'm keeping the factory deadening in there and mostly put some heavy closed-cell foam sound deadening mats on the floor and the aluminum stuff in the doors, firewall.

Thanks guys!

Endless death valley dust in there......

View attachment 2550572
I'm about to put in sound deadening myself. I noticed that I get a lot of noise from the tranny tunnel and rear wheel wells. I'll likely go overboard in those areas and on the firewall. It might not hurt to put some foam on the inside of the door cards or on the vapor barrier and rear quarter boards. I haven't found any stories of the sound deadener wicking moisture, but use your common sense. It's essentially ice and water shield so might actually prevent rust in some areas. Definitely wanna put some on the rear quarters but thinking maybe some under the hood as I'm appalled at the noise from closing it. I'm sure I'll still hear all those LandCruiser sounds anyhow, but reducing the tinny resonance is the goal. Thinking I may put a few patches of it in the tailgate as well.
 
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If your hood sounds like a junkyard when you close it, check the glue joints between the inner and outer hood (behind the fabric hood silencer pad). Mine had mostly failed on my FJ62 and my FJ55. In both cases, I used polyurethane sealer/adhesive (the PL product line from Home Depot) and massively glued the inner and outer hoods back together. To 'clamp' the hood, I closed the hood on some 2x4s on end, to put pressure on the inner hood to hold the inner and outer panels together. The weight of the hood trying to close itself was enough to compress the panels together.

When all done, the hood was much less flexible/floppy when opened, and quieter when slammed.
 

FJ Silver

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Location
New Harmony, Utah
Hey guys,

Do I use these old shims or the new ones that came with the kit, making sure I'm using the same amount top & bottom?

Thanks

shims.jpg
 

FJ Silver

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Jul 8, 2012
Messages
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Location
New Harmony, Utah
Hey guys,
I'm replacing the shoes in the back.
I've not had any leaking issues from the rear brakes, however when I was trying to put the new shoes back on, the brake cylinder squirted me right in the face... I know, I know, that's what she said.

But from the end of the little boot, when I was trying to push the cylinder push rods back a little to create some space, its leaking all over the place from both ends. Should I just buy a couple of new ones from SOR since they're pretty cheap? or is it normal for the seals to leak a little when handling them like this.

Thanks!

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