Purchased a new radiator for my FJ60 with operational air conditioning. I am being quoted 3.2 hours labor because the ac condendsor needs to be removed and ac service work. My question is: Does the condensor need to come out or can it stay in with lines intact?
FJ60 Radiator removal/replacement
- Thread starter ndcruizer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the input. Been so busy I did not look at it first. Just went out to the vehicle at lunch and I don't know where they get that flat rate. If all the hardware comes off nice it can be in and out in 2 hours MAX.
Keep in mind that if a shop is doing the work, then they're most likely quoting the time based on a Flat Rate book. This is regardless of how long it actually takes to do the job.
you have to remove the condensor, but you don't have to disconnect the A/C hoses. Headlight trim has to come off, grill off, condensor unbolts...then you can get to the bolts that hold the radiator. Fan shroud is a pain in the @$$ to deal with, but it unbolts. A little time consuming on your first attempt.
I replaced my radiator in my 62 about 2 months ago and it was easy for me with no previous car experience. Consider installing a trany cooler, it is easier than you think.
-Randy
-Randy
Flat book rate is how mechanics get pay raises. The fast you are at something the more money you make. The job is usually billed on book rate no mater how long it takes. If a rookie mechanic takes 5 hours you only pay the 3 hours. If it takes an old pro 1 hour, then he makes better money.
Its not a bad job to do yourself, just have a good system for laying out the bolts. I replaced a waterpump and radiator over two weekends and when it was going back in I had little memory lapses on which bolt went where. Its a gift I have in that, I can always re-engineer something with less parts than the original designers needed to do the same job.
Its not a bad job to do yourself, just have a good system for laying out the bolts. I replaced a waterpump and radiator over two weekends and when it was going back in I had little memory lapses on which bolt went where. Its a gift I have in that, I can always re-engineer something with less parts than the original designers needed to do the same job.
Here’s my dollar two ninety-eight:
I’m a slowpoke mechanic. I look, study, look at the FSM, squint, study some more, peer at it sideways, eyeball it again up and down, sip some coffee, take a break, look it all over again once more, consult MUD, and then slowly start removing fasteners. To keep track of the fasteners, I try to thread the bolts back into the holes they came out of just as soon as the removed part is clear. That helps me to keep track of things.
It took me a good long time to remove my ’62 radiator, but I know I could do the job faster now. I was advised to replace the water pump at the same time. I did not heed the advice. Two months later, I was back in there replacing the water pump!
I’m with the guys here who advise cutting the fan shroud in half horizontally. I did do that and it is good advice. I’d also recommend that you replace as many hoses as you can, plus the thermostat and the water pump while you have everything all pulled apart. I’ll go one further; flush out your heater core, too.
I’m a slowpoke mechanic. I look, study, look at the FSM, squint, study some more, peer at it sideways, eyeball it again up and down, sip some coffee, take a break, look it all over again once more, consult MUD, and then slowly start removing fasteners. To keep track of the fasteners, I try to thread the bolts back into the holes they came out of just as soon as the removed part is clear. That helps me to keep track of things.
It took me a good long time to remove my ’62 radiator, but I know I could do the job faster now. I was advised to replace the water pump at the same time. I did not heed the advice. Two months later, I was back in there replacing the water pump!
I’m with the guys here who advise cutting the fan shroud in half horizontally. I did do that and it is good advice. I’d also recommend that you replace as many hoses as you can, plus the thermostat and the water pump while you have everything all pulled apart. I’ll go one further; flush out your heater core, too.
Big Bump...
...so I searched and this seems like the right thread to bump for my radiator replacement question.
I had my mechanic buy the Performance radiator so he could install it and some new hoses (thermostat is less than 2 yrs old so I'm not replacing that). Well, now that my truck is in their garage I get a call that they will have to remove the ac condenser at 3 hours shop rate like the OP was quoted...and they will need to drain and recharge with new coolant (R12 is still in there) with 2 lbs at $80/lb.
My costs doubled with that phone call but they couldn't come up with any alternatives so I would like to hear from Mudders or mechanics who have replaced the radiator themselves to understand how to avoid the ac work.
I don't have my FSM with me so I haven't consulted that yet. Thaks for your help.
...so I searched and this seems like the right thread to bump for my radiator replacement question.
I had my mechanic buy the Performance radiator so he could install it and some new hoses (thermostat is less than 2 yrs old so I'm not replacing that). Well, now that my truck is in their garage I get a call that they will have to remove the ac condenser at 3 hours shop rate like the OP was quoted...and they will need to drain and recharge with new coolant (R12 is still in there) with 2 lbs at $80/lb.
My costs doubled with that phone call but they couldn't come up with any alternatives so I would like to hear from Mudders or mechanics who have replaced the radiator themselves to understand how to avoid the ac work.
I don't have my FSM with me so I haven't consulted that yet. Thaks for your help.
like it has been said: no need to pull any AC equipment.
Ac does not have to be drained! The worst part is the fan shroud. Mike
Where are you guys getting the radiators? I looked high and low and never found a deal for less than $250. My last unit came from Performance Radiator and lasted five years. The original went twenty years. I gave up and bought a universal aluminum unit from Summit Racing for $159. It's going to require some bracket fabbing, but overall, I'm pleased thus far. The real test will be keeping the new and improved 350 cool during the summer months.
That's a lot of scratch for a radiator. I should probably be nice and document my swap to the aluminum thing I bought.
- Joined
- May 28, 2009
- Threads
- 106
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Monument, Colorado
- Website
- www.sigfridsandsons.com
Removing Radiator on 87' FJ60
Just ordered an all metal radiator from radiator.com for $280 w/free delivery the same day I called (which was a Saturday). Called Toyota and was quoted $550 for an OEM radiator. CoolCruisers.com has one for $305 (I'm sure shipping is like $30). Sor.com has it for around $375 (shipping is probably $30). The guy at Radiator.com said the radiator should fit perfefctly without any modification. It arrives in a couple hours...we'll see if that's the case.
Here are the steps I took to remove the radiator on y 1987 FJ60:
1) Place a tray under your cruiser to catch your coolant. I used one of those pans you can buy at Home Depot that you place your washer on top of in case it floods. Next, remove fan shroud. 4 bolts (I think they were either 12mm or 14mm)
2) Remove the top metal thing that covers the a/c condenser (it's connected to the hood release) and swing it out to the side.
3) Remove battery and battery tray and set aside
4) Disconnect the top large radiator hose (on the right side). You only need to disconnect the side of the hose connected to the radiator).
5) Disconnect the overflow hose that comes out near the radiator cap and goes to the coolant reservoir (set aside).
5) Remove coolant reservoir and set aside (it's not bolted down...you just lift it out and it comes right out)
6) Time to go underneath the Cruiser. Unfasten the clamps around the large/straight radiator hose that's coming out of the bottom. Twist to break the seal on the hose. This one can be tough to get off. You essentially twist, grab, and push the hose up further on the metal "L" shaped pipe. I used a blow dryer to warm up the hose and make it a bit more pliable.
7) Back up top. Remove the "L" brackets on each side of the radiator. They have 4 bolts on each side. Also remove the bolt on the circular part of the L bracket. It's the one you see when you look straight down at the L bracket. Give the L bracket a whack with a rubber mallet to loosen it and it should come off.
8) Remove the a/c silver freon tank hoilder housing thing.
9) This is where things got tricky for me. You need to get the a/c condensor pulled away from the radiator because there are 6 bolts in there that you need to get to. I have a large bull bar on the front of my Cruiser, so I couldn't get the grill off (which is supposed to come off in order to get the a/c condensor off). My a/c is out of commission, so I disconnected just the large a/c hose line on the left side of the a/c condensor. I then disconnected the a/c line going into that freon tank thing. I then unbolted the a/c condensor (4 bolts) and pulled it away from the radiator as much as I could. I then swung it up and to the left which allowed me to get to the 6 bolts that hold the radiator in place. Now - if you're using your a/c, you shouldn't do this (unless you want to throw another $100-150 into recharging your a/c and getting the oxygen nd moisture out of your a/c unit. If you don;t have a bull bar you should be able to remove your grill, unbolt the a/c condensor, pull it away and then have access to the 6 radiator bolts. Since I have a bull bar I was forced to let out the freon and do it the "Pivot" way instead.
10) After you pull those 6 bolts, you should be able to pull the radiator out.
Just ordered an all metal radiator from radiator.com for $280 w/free delivery the same day I called (which was a Saturday). Called Toyota and was quoted $550 for an OEM radiator. CoolCruisers.com has one for $305 (I'm sure shipping is like $30). Sor.com has it for around $375 (shipping is probably $30). The guy at Radiator.com said the radiator should fit perfefctly without any modification. It arrives in a couple hours...we'll see if that's the case.
Here are the steps I took to remove the radiator on y 1987 FJ60:
1) Place a tray under your cruiser to catch your coolant. I used one of those pans you can buy at Home Depot that you place your washer on top of in case it floods. Next, remove fan shroud. 4 bolts (I think they were either 12mm or 14mm)
2) Remove the top metal thing that covers the a/c condenser (it's connected to the hood release) and swing it out to the side.
3) Remove battery and battery tray and set aside
4) Disconnect the top large radiator hose (on the right side). You only need to disconnect the side of the hose connected to the radiator).
5) Disconnect the overflow hose that comes out near the radiator cap and goes to the coolant reservoir (set aside).
5) Remove coolant reservoir and set aside (it's not bolted down...you just lift it out and it comes right out)
6) Time to go underneath the Cruiser. Unfasten the clamps around the large/straight radiator hose that's coming out of the bottom. Twist to break the seal on the hose. This one can be tough to get off. You essentially twist, grab, and push the hose up further on the metal "L" shaped pipe. I used a blow dryer to warm up the hose and make it a bit more pliable.
7) Back up top. Remove the "L" brackets on each side of the radiator. They have 4 bolts on each side. Also remove the bolt on the circular part of the L bracket. It's the one you see when you look straight down at the L bracket. Give the L bracket a whack with a rubber mallet to loosen it and it should come off.
8) Remove the a/c silver freon tank hoilder housing thing.
9) This is where things got tricky for me. You need to get the a/c condensor pulled away from the radiator because there are 6 bolts in there that you need to get to. I have a large bull bar on the front of my Cruiser, so I couldn't get the grill off (which is supposed to come off in order to get the a/c condensor off). My a/c is out of commission, so I disconnected just the large a/c hose line on the left side of the a/c condensor. I then disconnected the a/c line going into that freon tank thing. I then unbolted the a/c condensor (4 bolts) and pulled it away from the radiator as much as I could. I then swung it up and to the left which allowed me to get to the 6 bolts that hold the radiator in place. Now - if you're using your a/c, you shouldn't do this (unless you want to throw another $100-150 into recharging your a/c and getting the oxygen nd moisture out of your a/c unit. If you don;t have a bull bar you should be able to remove your grill, unbolt the a/c condensor, pull it away and then have access to the 6 radiator bolts. Since I have a bull bar I was forced to let out the freon and do it the "Pivot" way instead.
10) After you pull those 6 bolts, you should be able to pull the radiator out.
pull grill, bat. and it's tray also the fan so you can pull shrould then you are home free, drain into bucket and pull rad.
View attachment 490775
the next pic has white arrows pointing to the mounting holes that you have to unbolt to move cond out of your way to pull fount rad bolts but you don't have to disconnect A/C line to move out of way. Hope pics help
View attachment 490775
the next pic has white arrows pointing to the mounting holes that you have to unbolt to move cond out of your way to pull fount rad bolts but you don't have to disconnect A/C line to move out of way. Hope pics help
Last edited:
After the grill is removed, leave the side brackets on the radiator, remove the two bottom securing bolts. When you pull the radiator out the brackets stay on the radiator. They are reattached to the NEW radiator.
The condenser can stay in place if you wedge a big screwdriver against the bolt heads from the outside, loosen the nuts securing the radiator from the inside. I've removed mine three times and haven't ever removed the condenser.
The condenser can stay in place if you wedge a big screwdriver against the bolt heads from the outside, loosen the nuts securing the radiator from the inside. I've removed mine three times and haven't ever removed the condenser.