Overland Tailor
Boltripper
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2012
- Threads
- 81
- Messages
- 1,142
- Location
- Birmingham, AL
- Website
- www.overlandtailor.com
I was thinking about some type of aluminum block... Appreciate that tip and agree.. Amazing rack ...
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I've done over 1000 miles of dirt road driving in the past 2 months using this rack and it's still solid as a rock. No screws are loose and it's been fantastic.Hi to all.....
I would like to buy one roof rack, I like the design of this RR ...but I have a little doubs about the screw.....
How is this RR after 200 Ml on unpavent road? vibrations can loosen all?
My expirience on RR is from South Africa Outback.. and overthere all is weld...
I wait your impression after to make a long trip with it....
Thanks
Not sure that's even necessary. I highly doubt that Toyota had much variance in roof contours.Very cool design. Is there a built-in adjustment to compensate for manufacturing tolerances of the roof contour?
Saw it.There is a photo of the raw aluminum on one of their sponsor pages... I think it's Mountain State Overland? It's on a Tacoma.
Number 2, if your sliding a canoe up in the rack the crossbars are raw anodized aluminium not plastic coated like thule or yakiama cross bars. So what sliding the boat up any screws in the gunwales will catch on the raw aluminum crowbars making it harder to solo load a boat. Not a big deal though I just need to come up with a plastic bar that I can bolt to the t-slot on a couple of the crossbars.
Would a coat of black plastidip on the rear crossbar help you slide it up there?
UHMW Rectangular Bar | U.S. Plastic Corp.I have about 1000km on my 80 with the rack mounted and every bolt seems tight. I like it but I have 2 issues. Number 1 is that my deflector was susposed to be cut/notched for a light bar but was delivered not cut. Prinsu never answered my emails about it. Lame. Number 2, if your sliding a canoe up in the rack the crossbars are raw anodized aluminium not plastic coated like thule or yakiama cross bars. So what sliding the boat up any screws in the gunwales will catch on the raw aluminum crowbars making it harder to solo load a boat. Not a big deal though I just need to come up with a plastic bar that I can bolt to the t-slot on a couple of the crossbars.
I have about 1000km on my 80 with the rack mounted and every bolt seems tight. I like it but I have 2 issues. Number 1 is that my deflector was susposed to be cut/notched for a light bar but was delivered not cut. Prinsu never answered my emails about it. Lame. Number 2, if your sliding a canoe up in the rack the crossbars are raw anodized aluminium not plastic coated like thule or yakiama cross bars. So what sliding the boat up any screws in the gunwales will catch on the raw aluminum crowbars making it harder to solo load a boat. Not a big deal though I just need to come up with a plastic bar that I can bolt to the t-slot on a couple of the crossbars.
Those look great! Wow they are expensive though.Mcmaster makes a uhmw strip for t-slotted rails ... A little pricier but made to fit this type of application: http://www.mcmaster.com/#47065t5/=z24sk2
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