Builds Previously known as the 'One Week Resto' now Pathetically keeping it alive... 500k

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@tlc762

I have been down that rabbit hole many times :)

My door bow is actually a 1" solid stock that we put into the door tinwork ... It's not exactly to oem ... But... It works and is one of those pieces I'll eventually replace with oem LOL yeah right :)

Are your lower door weatherstripping channel shot?

I redid those on mine as well
 
@Living in the Past

I should probably one day move it in... I had it in ... Along with the high lift jack... spare, and a ton other stuff

As the kids multiplied my space incab shrunk :)

There is no production ... This is a one off lol

I promised to sew up a top for @BigRedFJ40 aka big daddy Chris

Neither of us have complete oem bows and would be Leary to sell any that could be wrong... I'd possibly do another one off different design another day as my mind is full of ideas :)
 
@tlc762

Oh forgot to add the thread used to be a 'one week resto' and we used the word 'resto' in a very loose and non restoration way lol

I had retitled it as "Previously known as the 'One Week Resto' now Pathetically keeping it alive... 500k"

It was a play on the words before the death of the artist formally known as Prince
 
Yep Johhny,
My lower weather strip channels are shot, also the right door square tube is rusted through/broken right above the bend at the bottom. Also missing the passenger side window and metal base support/catch. I was able to get the door weatherstrips and the window catch for $OR when I originally bought the truck 7-8 years ago... I got the truck from the rear yard of a J**p shop that lost it's lease, filled up a 5 gallon bucket with the compost I shoveled out of the rusted out rear floor(it was parked under a tree). I got the windshield channel and upper jamb and main bow with the truck but the vertical jamb tin work has some perforation rust... Nothing like you have in New York tho.. Some PO (prior to junkyard then J**p shop) welded some flat steel extension pieces to the jambs to work as strikers with the fst doors so they would stay closed. I never measured to see if it was a tub/cowl issue or windshield tilt/rear shift to the main bow since I removed the parts to use on my '74 someday... Need to take some digital picks of them (used film camera back then) or learn to use a scanner.
Will.
 
Johnny,
It was just a jest... I have enjoyed your posts and the knowledge and insight shared in them for years as I trolled around the sight(been following this thread since it started and enjoyed the ride all the way). My first date in high school was to see the movie "Purple Rain" starring the now deceased artist formerly known as Prince. RIP.

I started my first "resto" in May 1987 after getting the #1 74 as a high school graduation present from my dad and it is still ongoing. I had always wanted a land rover after seeing them in africa on tv growing up in the 70's, your remember Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom... He said one day there's a Land Cruiser for sale in the classifieds, I know it's not a land rover but it's a Toyota and I think we should go look at it. $1500 and a tow truck later and down the rabbit hole I went...
Regards,
Will.
 
@Weber Sarge

This is what I was going to use for my 'guide'

It is a guide from an fj60... Fits the hand crank really well

However thank you for the offer !!!

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Keeping to my need to not leave well enough alone... I was cleaning the garage (since wife and two kids are away for a few days :) )

I went to move the sewing box of fabric scraps when I heard "sew it"

"If you sew it ... It will look nice"

:)

Sew away I went to use several pieces of scrap into a winch cover

:)




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Johnny I have a FJ62 with that guide and a couple of Fox's repo guides from years ago. Besides not being as tight a fit the metal is much thinner. If you ever plan on using I would go with the heavier repo. The 60 series guide is only designed to lower the spare tire not start engine.
 
Basically I am not using any :)

I just need it as a guide to cut out a large enough hole for the crank to fit in the front... In a guide pattern... And don't think an actual guide will fit unless I try and fab something that will attach under the roller fair lead

I (since we started discussing this) took a few measurements and eyeballing and it looks like the plate we used to mount the winch that goes between the frame horns may be too thick and will not be able to line up

I will probably need to take a 1/4" off groove along the plate

The plate is 1/2" thick

I may even lob off a good chunk in the center and save 10lbs lol

There is actually quite a bit of metal I am wanting to lob off as it serves no structural purpose
 
I. you don't get around to it for a few years won't it just rust away and save you the work?:rolleyes: Sorry Johnny couldn't help myself.
 
Too funny John lol

Of all the things on the truck the whole front frame horn area ... Winch and all have very little rust

It would have made life easier however so I totally agree LOL

torrential downpour right now... So it's a good test for new winch cover and storm test for the new soft top .... Mmmmm rain LOL

Even have a river forming in the front yard... Should have made my snorkel idea years ago ... Think it may be too late :meh:

:hillbilly:

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No leaks or drops ... Nothing

Very dry inside!!

Only by the doors lol

But my doors are pretty whooped at this point... The weld broke and it's running down the window

This I'll have to do today... However the canvas doors will be going back on as soon as I get the uninterrupted time to do so

Pic of Sunbrella synthetic marine canvas beading... Since we like pics :)

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Johnny when you make my top please sure to include enough material to cover the doors. A few covers that fit the factory PTO winch while your at It. Thought about putting a tailgate on my 68 for years (picked the tailgate and hardware up over twenty five years ago) but with your top it works better with barn doors. As for your rain please send some to Phoenix. Over a 110 by the end of the week.:bang: Have to figure out a couple issues before we can head to the cool country.:(
 
@Living in the Past

So I recall you were saying how you didn't know what this rust stuff was... I think the connection is winter salts AND water :)

I think you may have a lack of it in Az? Are you able to shower?

Lol :lol:

Well a buddy needed a set of 33" tires to throw on his brothers scout ... I got those ... My old pretty beat toyo m55's ... Was going to chuck them this week SOOO it's a win win for both of us

I had one toyo still on a split rim... Been on there for 11 years?

Well it was the first time a rim almost got the best of me... Tyreplyers weren't breaking the bead... Tried using a high lift and compressing still no good

Tried driving over the rubber to break the bread ... No go

I was going to tell him ... Sorry can't have the last tire I am cutting it off :mad:

Finally tired the tyreplyers one more time and the bead was finally moving

Rust ... Very bad... You can't see really in the pics but it's clean thru the rim... Rot holes... Ring had a lot of material lost on the ring seat

First time I had to ditch a split rim ... Wasn't too happy about that... But... Buddy was happy and I was happy to get a free lunch :)

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A milestone day

This is the way I ran my top when it is 'off' for many years ... Until I had a heavy material canvas... Since I used a lighter material it had made it just as easy as when I was running the oem FST kayline replacement top

I haven't run this way in 12 years? Wow time goes by fast

I use the 4 hardtop screw holes for mounting the straps that go inside and then are used to hold the top

Happy!!

Much easier than having to pull it out and get it back in :)

Pics

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If I recall correctly you have some aluminum rods that slide in the channels above the door for the soft top. How do you get the loop in the soft top into the channel enough to slide the rods in or is that just not an issue? What diameter rod did you use?

I got fabric and windows and everything but I don't have a machine or more importantly time! But my factory top is hanging in there and once I get over this big transition in my business I'm going to give it a shot. Though that might take a couple more years at least.


I'd say you do it a little bit better than a "pathetic" job keeping this thing running good. Keep it up Johnny!

Pete
 
@peteinjp The rods are 1/4" just shy of the length of the horizontal door bow

It just replaced the welt 'rope' that is in there ... I am posting some pics of the rod and it in the bow as well as inside my old kayline

Also here is a webpage that may come in handy when you make your own top :)

Link to Canvas Makers Quild: Canvas Makers Guild

Explore and PM me with any questions

Pics:

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A few more pictures... Kayline threads were falling apart lol

You kinda just slide in the material into the channel and then slide the rod in... It will draw in the material tighter ... So you don't have to push it very far in ... Just really at the start side

Best part is .... No removing the door header horizontal bow for those who might not know

Thanks for the complements @peteinjp

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