Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

Stumpalama

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Went from this:

IMG_0146.jpg
IMG_0149.jpg

To this:

IMG_0153.jpg
IMG_0226.jpg

Now I just have to do some wrapping and figure out the Neutral Safety switch, ignition wiring and grafting it to the 40's painless harness. The head should be off the FJ62 by the end of the week and to the machine shop soon.
 

bkfj40

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Impressive work! I am always amazed by someone who can work on a wiring harness....I was too worried on my vortec and subbed it out for the standalone engine/tranny witing
 

Stumpalama

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Fortunately, there are a lot of people smarter than me who have documented their experiences regarding this swap. It is by far the most daunting task on this endeavor. It took about 5hrs total working time over 2 days to get it to this stage. It was slow going at first just because I had to familiarize myself with the harness itself, compare it to the schematics and digest it all before going back to the harness. Comprehending how everything was interlinked and what was truly unnecessary became elementary after awhile.. Towards the end, it really started to flow and went quite quickly.
If I had to build one again, it would probably only take a few hours, including stripping off the wrapping.

I am excited that it will require only a handful of splices into my existing wiring to make it work.
 

Stumpalama

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Whatup Charleton?!

I am using the stock 2F cam shaft, since i don't want to dig that far into the engine at this point... But I'm not ruling anything out. I have read that a 260 cam like Jim C is running is ideal for low end torque and a little more air flow.
I am also going to run the stock 3FE manifolds since another wise Cruiser guy, Mark W, told me rhe 3FE manifolds get good flow and there is not much to be gained by headers. I already have a 2.5" exhaust and Flowmaster Hushpower muffler, so I will retrofit a Flowmaster flow-through spun cat into the exhaust.

I've spent the last 3 hours tonight going over my painless wiring manual (previously rewired the truck with emissions) and figuring out the wiring for direct feed power requirements, extra fuses (2) and ignition relay I will need to adapt the FJ40 ignition to run the 3FE.

Fun, Fun!

By the end of this, I will (hopefully) be a good resource for anyone in the club who decides to do this in the future.
 

RWBeringer4x4

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Started cleaning up those knuckles off your FJ62 stump - they're looking pretty solid, thanks again! It's incredible how much crap these things collect - I've probably pulled out a couple pounds of dirt/grease, 15 dead stink bugs, 5 live stink bugs, a couple spiders, several cocoons - your parts truck has its own ecosystem living in the grease. :lol:

Only issue I'm having is getting the wheel studs out of the hub/rotor. BFH and penetrating oil are not cutting it - I'm thinking I'll need to borrow a shop press somewhere.

Really interested to see how your engine works out - if I was still set up for a 6 cylinder, I'd love to do that swap.
 

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Stumpalama

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Rick,

Looking good! Yeah, I could have cleaned them up, but that costs extra and I figured I'd pass the savings on to you ;)

I think you are on to something with that eco-system thing. I found about a dozen mud dauber nests on the block and transmission.

Are you swapping out the rotors? If you are just going to clean them up and have them turned (my recommendation) I would leave them in. Otherwise, a shop press is the only way to go to handle these. Trying to pound them out (and back in) is a biotch and risks damaging the threads.

I'm having to be careful with my 2FE swap, I have to concentrate on not gettign ahead of myself. I've spent the last 3 days pouring over schematics of the FJ62 and the FJ40 and have to fight the urge to complete the wiring before I have all the parts to swap out the head and other mechanicals. Patience is not one of my virtues.

Good luck with the rest of the swap and keep us posted on the progress.
 
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Got the truck in the garage to address the current header issue- really loud probably due to the cracking...

Took pictures despite the fact there are only 4 vacuum lines to mess up.
Pulled intake, carb, and header..

Have some messed up linkage on the carb- perhaps due to a bad engine mount (hit speed bump and linkage bent- correlation isn't causation but it's a start). Hoping to straighten rather than replace but we will see
Of course I decided my airbox looked horrible and went to work with a wire brush and ospho- now need to finish the bottom and paint.
Going to order some new engine mounts and then piece the exhaust back together.

Keep you guys posted and hopefully I'll drag my happy ass out to a meeting soon enough.
 

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Stumpalama

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Slow road to a 2FE

Pulled the head today. I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at as far as the condition of the valves based on their appearance. Overall, the head looks good with no visible cracks, it is not warped and it does not appear as if the head gasket blew anywhere and all pistons looked OK, if not a little sooty. Yes, those white dots at the 6 o'clock position are the spark plugs. They are all caked with deposits.

For those that are familiar with valves, how do these look? I see an interesting pattern on the intake valves of # 2, 3 and 4 at the 11 to 1 o'clock positions. #'s 1 and 6 intake look the best to me. What's up with the exhaust valves? Some are uniformly white and the coloring varies on others.

Pic of the whole head:
WP_20131227_001.jpg

Pic of cylinders 1-4, a closer look at the "polished"pattern on the intake valves.
WP_20131227_008.jpg

Pic of cylinders 3-6 #5 intake is extra sooty.
WP_20131227_005.jpg
 

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RWBeringer4x4

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Rick,

Looking good! Yeah, I could have cleaned them up, but that costs extra and I figured I'd pass the savings on to you ;)

I think you are on to something with that eco-system thing. I found about a dozen mud dauber nests on the block and transmission.

Are you swapping out the rotors? If you are just going to clean them up and have them turned (my recommendation) I would leave them in. Otherwise, a shop press is the only way to go to handle these. Trying to pound them out (and back in) is a biotch and risks damaging the threads.

I'm having to be careful with my 2FE swap, I have to concentrate on not gettign ahead of myself. I've spent the last 3 days pouring over schematics of the FJ62 and the FJ40 and have to fight the urge to complete the wiring before I have all the parts to swap out the head and other mechanicals. Patience is not one of my virtues.

Good luck with the rest of the swap and keep us posted on the progress.
Ha, yeah, I asked for parts, not CLEAN parts and I wouldn't expect anyone to go through all the effort of cleaning them up prior to sale. It is a ton of grody work...

I was initially going to just have the rotors turned, but seeing how they are so obnoxiously attached to the hub, I think I'm going to replace them with new - it will be that much longer until I have to replace them again!
 

Stumpalama

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Good point. It is a good idea to baseline if you can. The truck did have 248k on it from looking at the odometer. And by the look of the spark plugs, they were in there for 100k of that.
 

RWBeringer4x4

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Good point. It is a good idea to baseline if you can. The truck did have 248k on it from looking at the odometer. And by the look of the spark plugs, they were in there for 100k of that.
Yeah, the brake shoes were toast! Literally 2mm left on the pads. In addition, I plan to get a fresh coat of paint on everything, so I pretty much need everything separated and spotless.
 

Stumpalama

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Got my drive shafts sorted

I will be prepared the next time I bust up a drive shaft.

Before:
From left to right: '85 4Runner hi-angle, '84 FJ60 front, Tom Woods custom
WP_20140109_003.jpg


After:
From left to right: FJ60, 4 Runner, Charleton's spare FJ60 shaft, Tom Woods
WP_20140115_001.jpg


I figured I'd pretty it up for you Charleton;)
 

Stumpalama

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2FE work

Also, got some of the 3FE parts dismantled for clean-up and media blasting.

I'll be taking the head in for machining and chevy valve install.
WP_20131227_017.jpg

The intake manifold and throttle body are a mess.
WP_20140113_012.jpgWP_20140113_009.jpg

The interior of the intake and throttle body are caked with oil. I think I'll need to install an oil separator between the PCV and intake to limit the amount of oil blowing into the intake.
 

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Did you check the coil on the camry. They're famous for shorting through the case and grounding to the distributor shaft.
 
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