1MOA
SILVER Star
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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Just ordered a new coolant temperature sensor for the fj62. Any tips on removing or installing the old one?
The sensor is brass and threads into the aluminum thermostat housing. A little bit of anti-seize in the new one or should it be straight forward out and new one in? It looks pretty crusty.
The sensor is brass and threads into the aluminum thermostat housing. A little bit of anti-seize in the new one or should it be straight forward out and new one in? It looks pretty crusty.
1MOA
SILVER Star
that would be a good candidate for a induction heater. You can’t put too much moxie on brass before it starts bending.
iptman
SILVER Star
Did you see what you have to do to get to the body side hinge bolts? I looked at those for about 30 seconds and decided it was going to be a PITA before nixing those as an option.
iptman
SILVER Star
LMK if you want to borrow my induction heater.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Yeah the only one that really concerns me is the upper drivers side one because of all the electrical stuff right there and no room.
Have you guys seen Project Wrong Way on YouTube? Ben is documenting his garage resto of a 40. He installed a set of those on a recent episode. They did look like a pita but he got there. I forget if there were any specific tips he ended up having.
Perfect for your restoration project, Haynes service manual for sale:
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Induction heater only works on ferrous metals 
Induction heater only works on ferrous metals
you’re right...damn science
The AC in my GX has been pretty meh this summer and was blowing lukewarm in traffic. A little foil duct tape to seal the 1" gap between the condenser and radiator on all sides and now its a refrigerator at idle. This is a super common trick people do on drift cars and autocross too apparently. If your fan shroud has a gap between the radiator, taping that up can also help with lowering coolant temps
iptman
SILVER Star
Pulled the 40 in to the garage today to look at a leak i suspect is the speedo housing to parking brake seal. I think I have more leaks forward of that too. The parking brake backing plate has some oil on it but not as bad as I've seen on mud. No groove on the drum sealing surface so that's a bonus. I think the seam between the oil pan and oil pan skid is starting to leak as well. When I changed the oil pan gasket a couple years ago I should have just replaced the pan then. Hopefully I can reuse the gasket.
Do I have to get a new 27mm nut for the output shaft or can I reuse it and restake it? Also, can I remove the backing plate without disassembling the brake shoes, etc?
Do I have to get a new 27mm nut for the output shaft or can I reuse it and restake it? Also, can I remove the backing plate without disassembling the brake shoes, etc?
1MOA
SILVER Star
I don't know about the 27mm nut reuse but I remember watching the ebrake being taken off complete and they put a new cable on it off the truck then reassembled it back so I would say yes to that.
The E brake pads actually look like they are in good shape and not oil soaked. Is the filler cap in the 2nd pic just sitting there after you loosened it because it looks way crooked.
No , reuse existing nut and restake to original OEM location stakes , don’t over tighten it this way
You don’t kill your preload
Yes , shoes need to come off to access the four #7
12mm hex bolts ...
the tan chassis FSM is better details then the old grey one I believe
You don’t kill your preload
Yes , shoes need to come off to access the four #7
12mm hex bolts ...
the tan chassis FSM is better details then the old grey one I believe
Dabbling in more decals ....
wanted to put my fire-extinguisher out of sight yet quickly reachable, and the base of the a-pillar roll cage was just too near my shins... ah, the B-Pillar worked out fine. I bought a river-nut tool last year, works great for stuff like this, no hose clamps in sight...
iptman
SILVER Star
Thanks @ToyotaMatt and @1MOA. I was doing some reading and saw that gear oil should have poured out of the transfer case when I pulled the drum, it did not for me. I just drained the transfer case and less than a quart poured out. I then remembered about a hose kit someone sells that goes between the transmission fill plug and transfer fill plug, the former being higher, so that any gear oil push from transfer to transmission will drain back. So I pulled the transmission fill plug and a ton of oil came out of that (it was in straight and secure so it must have been the camera angle that made it look off kilter). So I think that means the seal between the transfer case and transmission is shot pushing oil back up to the transmission? I assume the right fix is to drop the transfer case and install a new seal and this greater than the aforementioned hose kit?
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I always remove the cast iron speedo drive gear housing and have my machine shop bore out the seal recess 1 seal deeper in depth
then I install the 2nd outer seal upside down
hence I have created 2 doors to block anything a front and a rear
this is the exact engineering detail
Yamaha outboards use on the lower units
a double lip seal
I have never had this design I read about years ago
Fail or leak after the fact
it’s a Rock Solid set up and the machine bore extra depth and a Mod free Mod
in other words has zero counter issues or flaws in any way that I have discovered
I have applied this on 3 past cruisers with solid success
then I install the 2nd outer seal upside down
hence I have created 2 doors to block anything a front and a rear
this is the exact engineering detail
Yamaha outboards use on the lower units
a double lip seal
I have never had this design I read about years ago
Fail or leak after the fact
it’s a Rock Solid set up and the machine bore extra depth and a Mod free Mod
in other words has zero counter issues or flaws in any way that I have discovered
I have applied this on 3 past cruisers with solid success
iptman
SILVER Star
I was just reading about Cruiser Brothers' housing like that. $100 for a machined housing with both seals preinstalled. Definitely seems worth it. Not OEM seals though.
