Nice, I hope that solves all of your cooling issues.
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Builds Poverty packin’: 1992 HZJ80 in Texas (2 Viewers)
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Nice! I recently did the same scenario with my 1FZ. Radiator, water pump, heater valve, etc. Flushed everything out and it flowed great. Still barely any heat, even though the back heater is too hot to touch almost and the heater valve is doing it’s job. I’m worried my blend doors are messed up.
bottombracket
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Looks like it made a difference, folks.
The picture below is driving 75 mph in 95° weather with the air conditioning blasting on maximum.
The picture below is driving 75 mph in 95° weather with the air conditioning blasting on maximum.
bottombracket
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Front panhard bar questions:
Anyone know who makes this? The truck is a ‘92 but the axles are of a ‘96 or ‘97. I found this last night when replacing the radiator. I need to do a little searching and find out where I can source the replacement bushing and nuts/bolts/hardware.
I’ll get a better shot of the entire bar tomorrow.
Anyone know who makes this? The truck is a ‘92 but the axles are of a ‘96 or ‘97. I found this last night when replacing the radiator. I need to do a little searching and find out where I can source the replacement bushing and nuts/bolts/hardware.
I’ll get a better shot of the entire bar tomorrow.
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Hardware: OEM
Panhard bushing will be aftermarket.
I’d s***can it and call @sleeoffroad and get new adjustable front and rear versions that utilize the OEM style press bushings.
Panhard bushing will be aftermarket.
I’d s***can it and call @sleeoffroad and get new adjustable front and rear versions that utilize the OEM style press bushings.
If the threads on the bolt are fine just find the correct nut and go. 
bottombracket
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I ordered some OEM M16 x 1.5 bolts to fit the panhard rod from Toyota, but the local dealer won’t have them for several days. No one in town had a good substitute in metric, not even the local bolt and hardware specialty shop.
Turns out 5/8” is a near perfect match for 16mm....
Thanks to @davegonz for the ratchet strap trick to shift the axle and frame closer together.
Now, the slow speed braking death wobble is gone, but the truck pulls to the right when the brakes are applied. Time to inspect the braking system. Also, it will need a tire rod end refresh. I’ve already called @orangefj45 and parts are on the way.
Cooling system: still in the bottom 20%!
Turns out 5/8” is a near perfect match for 16mm....
Thanks to @davegonz for the ratchet strap trick to shift the axle and frame closer together.
Now, the slow speed braking death wobble is gone, but the truck pulls to the right when the brakes are applied. Time to inspect the braking system. Also, it will need a tire rod end refresh. I’ve already called @orangefj45 and parts are on the way.
Cooling system: still in the bottom 20%!
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Thanks fir the call and Oder! We had everything you needed in stock, shipping out tomorrow.
Thank you for the order, i appreciate you sending business my way.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Thank you for the order, i appreciate you sending business my way.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
bottombracket
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- #149
Georg, wait ‘til the FT for THIS truck arrives...there will be many, many orders....
bottombracket
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I planned all weekend to stop and take a picture when it was 222222. Missed it by THIS MUCH.
xlx
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xlx
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bottombracket
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Door panels in a poverty pack:
So it’s time to think about door panels. I looked around and on eBay Australia found a pretty reasonable set of four masonite door cards. They are laser cut and fit perfectly. Shipping was actually not too bad. The whole thing got here for around $200 USD to my door. I have some gray Schoeller Keprotec Kevlar fabric to use, and I found a local upholsterer who is willing to give the Kevlar fabric a try. His exact quote was: “Hey man, it’s your money, I’ll do anything if you pay me.”
I like him already.
For a simple set of door cards, he thinks it will be no problem. I’m checking out Kevlar shears on Amazon now.
I mocked up one of the new door cards into the driver’s door and found that the rear interior window frame had shared off. Time to order some more parts...
Keprotec fabric. It’s got a really soft hand but reportedly wears like iron.
So it’s time to think about door panels. I looked around and on eBay Australia found a pretty reasonable set of four masonite door cards. They are laser cut and fit perfectly. Shipping was actually not too bad. The whole thing got here for around $200 USD to my door. I have some gray Schoeller Keprotec Kevlar fabric to use, and I found a local upholsterer who is willing to give the Kevlar fabric a try. His exact quote was: “Hey man, it’s your money, I’ll do anything if you pay me.”
I like him already.
For a simple set of door cards, he thinks it will be no problem. I’m checking out Kevlar shears on Amazon now.
I mocked up one of the new door cards into the driver’s door and found that the rear interior window frame had shared off. Time to order some more parts...
Keprotec fabric. It’s got a really soft hand but reportedly wears like iron.
bottombracket
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- #154
Door panels are back and I got the first one installed on the driver’s door. It’s going to make a big difference. I really like how they came out. Anyone out there have a preference on making a vapor barrier for the other door skin? Should I just go to Lowe’s and get some plastic sheet and glue it down with RTV?
Yeah, plastic sheeting should be fine. Those new door panels should quiet things down considerably!
Did you get some made for the barn doors?
bottombracket
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No, but Joe dropped off a set of original barn door panels today. I’ll probably go find some masonite and re-create a set, and get them recovered to match.
bottombracket
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- #158
We had a little bit of a cruiser meet up today.
@joekatana brought me an early Christmas present in the form of a 1HDFT, a couple of transmissions and transfer cases with all the fixin’s. At one point I think there were 13 diesel motors on the premises, only about half of them in running vehicles!
@joekatana brought me an early Christmas present in the form of a 1HDFT, a couple of transmissions and transfer cases with all the fixin’s. At one point I think there were 13 diesel motors on the premises, only about half of them in running vehicles!
It was great seeing you all again my friend, I am always in my happy place hanging with the Austin Cruiser buddies
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Granted, a moisture barrier here is more serious than say AZ, but TX can get a downpour.....
I used some asbestos removal bags (very thick, also puncture-proof -well, almost).
But quality, thick visqueen sheeting should hold for a good decade+ before the plastic starts brittle-izing / breaking down any.
I used adhesive velcro in my E30 on the top & 2 horizontals, and you just leave the bottom edge / tail 1.5” long to tuck into the door where the 3 velcro sides were attached to the metal facing you.
The velcro tape trick also gives the advantage of a “fluff zone” that the door panels don't rattle.
While you have the door panel & barriers out, if you feel like giving the doorskin a shot of rubber liner where you can, it’ll make the door sound more solid when you shut it. Just a few shots where you can reach does quite a bit, not like you need to spray every inch, just where you can reach a damp rag to wipe decades old dust & a dry towel after that.
I did this to both my E30 & in the doors of my old ‘68 Camaro, the guy who bought my Camaro actually emailed me & was happy with the adhesive Velcro way I did things.
RTV is too permanent & the tar adhesive is such a mess.....that Velcro is what I came to as my solution.
HTH
