Possible transmission problem - EDIT, **SOLVED** (1 Viewer)

[Atomic City]

I recently replaced my engine with a new Toyota short block for my 1996 FZJ80. Engine seems to run fine - the idle is a little low, but while in park, it seems pretty responsive and it seems ok. I was rebuilding it at my mother-in-laws house, which is about a mile from my own home. After installing the engine, I put a bit of transmission fluid in, as I knew that I lost some during the rebuild.

Anyway, I drove it home. It felt pretty boggy, and wouldn't shift into passing gear if I got on it. Actually sort of felt like it was in too tall of a gear to start. The speed limit in my town is 25, so I didn't get too fast, but I didn't feel it shift at all. I went to drive up my driveway, which has an incline, and the truck wouldn't do it, and sort of made this "clang clang" sound. I also got an error code about a shift solenoid. The trans fluid was really low. So, I parked it out on the street and went through the process of filling the transmission. I then took it for another quick spin, and the same thing. Hopefully I didn't eff something up. Any thoughts? I am really new to diagnosing automatic transmission issues.

 

[shocktower]

So you need to make sure the transmission is plugged in, and the plug is not corroded ( I would unplug it and spray it with some Deoxit to clean the pins), check you TPS is correct, another thing is check the kick down cable, and make sure it is adjusted properly it is very important also check your front drive flanges and if you have the CDL ( Center Diff Lock ) button try driving a bit with it on locking the center diff . this should get you near the issue and i will check back and see if it is fixed

 

[scottryana]

How low is really low? How much trans fluid did you put in it?

 

[Atomic City]

Thanks for the responses. I will report back once I get a chance to get out and look at it again.

 

[Atomic City]

How low is really low? How much trans fluid did you put in it?

Probably put in about 1/4 to 1/2 a quart before heading home, and I know the TC had oil in it when I re-installed it, plus the external trans cooler still had some oil in it.. It registered between C and H on the dipstick, but I knew I needed to get it warmed up before properly checking it anyway, and I figured the short distance home wasn't going to hurt it anyway. I hope that wasn't a mistake.

 

[scottryana]

Well how much did you have to put in it when you "parked it out on the street and went through the process of filling the transmission"

I mean if you went through the proper process at home and it only needed 0.5qts, that is a lot different than if you needed 5qts when you got home.

Running an auto trans low on trans fluid is probably the quickest way to kill it. I would drain the trans and check the fluid for clutch material and metal.

Probably put in about 1/4 to 1/2 a quart before heading home, and I know the TC had oil in it when I re-installed it, plus the external trans cooler still had some oil in it.. It registered between C and H on the dipstick, but I knew I needed to get it warmed up before properly checking it anyway, and I figured the short distance home wasn't going to hurt it anyway. I hope that wasn't a mistake.

 

[Atomic City]

I put in about another 1.5 quarts. I don't smell any hints of burnt transmission. I will be doing a trans fluid change as part of the baseline anyway - I will look for evidence of catastrophic failure when I do that.

I just went out and checked the TPS, the outputs are reading in spec for open and closed. I also checked my kickdown cable - that one was way off. When I took everything apart, I marked all three cables for the positions of the nuts, but for some reason, I either didn't mark it well, or the mark got rubbed off, so I spun the wrong side when re-installing. So, I adjusted it according to the FSM, but the cable feels pretty loose now. I am guessing I should take the slack out, but how taught should it be? Is there an output signal that I can read to see where to stop?

I disconnected the two connectors for the transmission and shot them with some contact cleaner - they are drying right now. The larger connector looked fairly dirty, hopefully that has something to do with it.

The code given was P0753 - shift solenoid A electrical. I have double checked and all of my grounds are connected. Hopefully this dirty connector is the culprit.

I will report back. Thanks again for the responses.

 

[Atomic City]

Ok, so I took it out again - same sluggish feeling, and it kicked the P0753 code. I manually shifted to L and it felt like it was supposed to off the line, and I could get the rpms to come up quickly. I will look into the FSM for how to test the solenoid.

 

[Atomic City]

I think I found the problem. I started just chasing down the path of the wires going to the solenoids for the transmission. On top of the transmission, there are two connectors that mate the engine wiring harness to the transmission harness. Well, on one of those connections, I can see that a red wire (the color of one of the solenoid wires) has pulled out of one of the connectors. So, I'll have to pull those apart and attempt a repair. It's a bitch to reach, unfortunately.

 

[tacocat]

I was rebuilding it at my mother-in-laws house, which is about a mile from my own home.

Suspect.

 

[blkprj80]

Is your second gear switch pushed?

 

[Atomic City]

So here is the culprit, I believe. Anybody know how to get the pins to release in this bad boy? I tried putting a paper clip on both the bottom and top of the problem pin and then "pushing" (not that I could push much - the angle is very hard). Unfortunately, there is no way to grab the pin from the backside, as the wire pulled out. Anyway, do I have to remove the white part of the connector somehow?

backside of connector:

 

[GSTMike]

So here is the culprit, I believe. Anybody know how to get the pins to release in this bad boy? I tried putting a paper clip on both the bottom and top of the problem pin and then "pushing" (not that I could push much - the angle is very hard). Unfortunately, there is no way to grab the pin from the backside, as the wire pulled out. Anyway, do I have to remove the white part of the connector somehow?

View attachment 2256982

backside of connector:

View attachment 2256984

Typically that white part is the pin lock which pushes against the pin so as to stop it from coming out so in my mind you would need to use a small pick to work that white plastic lock up and out.

 

[landcrshr]

The retainer should release like this.

There should also be another lock for each pin, something like this.

HTH.

 

[Atomic City]

Awesome! Thanks!

 

[Atomic City]

The retainer should release like this.

View attachment 2257031

There should also be another lock for each pin, something like this.

HTH.

Ok, I can get it to snap down into the "lock" position - but am I right in assuming that this white piece doesn't come out? You just leave it in the lock position? Then try to release the little tab shown in your second picture?

 

[landcrshr]

That sounds right.

Down is the "temporary lock" position.

 

[fjbj40]

White piece does not come out

 

[shocktower]

I think I found the problem. I started just chasing down the path of the wires going to the solenoids for the transmission. On top of the transmission, there are two connectors that mate the engine wiring harness to the transmission harness. Well, on one of those connections, I can see that a red wire (the color of one of the solenoid wires) has pulled out of one of the connectors. So, I'll have to pull those apart and attempt a repair. It's a bitch to reach, unfortunately.

I told you there was a connection issue, I have messed with several of these and the, shifting issues are 99.97% the plug the 343 is a solid transmission and rarely do they have a solenoid problem , Good luck getting it fixed

 

[Atomic City]

Problem solved!! Was a pain to get to, but I pulled off the repair. Shifts and responds like it used to! Thanks for the help everyone!

I went and got a new pick tool and was able to eject the culprit pin:

And then soldered on a new wire:

And then re-installed in the truck and soldered to the original wire (no pictures of that) and covered with shrink tubing.