Portuguese spec BJ73 1HDT A442 swap

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EGT probe installed.
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chrisspaulding said:
Some part numbers
51421-60140 right frame mount
51422-70140 left frame mount
12311-17020 right engine mount
12315-17020 left engine mount
12361-17020 rubber motor mount (two needed)
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On the second bracket, I think you meant: 51422-60140. :)

12311-17020 supersedes to 12311-17021

All of those parts are accessible in the US except for the to engine rubber isolators.
 
Everything moves around a bit, Chris, at least my 80 did, offroad, in reverse, and under acceleration.

How are the front and rear drivelines looking for length and angles?

Edited: Unsolicited advice, but it'd be worth checking the pinion angles BEFORE going crazy on cross member fab or cutting the body.

Thinking it might he worth it to check out now, when possible to pitch the transfer case in crossmember construction, since it may be beneficial to drop the rear.

Hate being a naysayer and I hope I'm wrong, but don't see how this is gonna work full time, within the shorter OAL, without funky double cardan (or worse, double, double cardan shafts) with the LP front diff.

May be able to source another HF1A mechanical case, if you're interested.

Know they have several, all still attached to H15Xs, but have one H151 that I was going to ask they remove the HF1A, for shipping considerations.
 
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rick_d said:
I am using the new hz rubber mounts 12361-17091 which ARE US part numbers. later version in my mind is better. DO not get aftermarket mounts, they all fall apart too quickly.
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I'm using the 12361-17020 mounts imported from the UAE. I'm with you on the aftermarket mounts. I'm a fan of Toyota or OEM (Denso, Aisin, etc) parts. I believe in Toyota engineering and the quality of Toyota parts. Over the years, I've learned (always the hard way) that Toyota/OEM is the best way for me to go. I've never been happy with the cheaper or alternately sourced parts.
 
Delancy said:
Everything moves around a bit, Chris, at least my 80 did, offroad, in reverse, and under acceleration.

How are the front and rear drivelines looking for length and angles?

Edited: Unsolicited advice, but it'd be worth checking the pinion angles BEFORE going crazy on cross member fab or cutting the body.

Thinking it might he worth it to check out now, when possible to pitch the transfer case in crossmember construction, since it may be beneficial to drop the rear.

Hate being a naysayer and I hope I'm wrong, but don't see how this is gonna work full time, within the shorter OAL, without funky double cardan (or worse, double, double cardan shafts) with the LP front diff.

May be able to source another HF1A mechanical case, if you're interested.

Know they have several, all still attached to H15Xs, but have one H151 that I was going to ask they remove the HF1A, for shipping considerations.
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Hey Chris,
Your thoughts, ideas and suggestion (solicited or not) are always welcome! This is my first big build and "what I don't know that I don't know" is always the sticking point. I'll shoot some pictures and measurements of the driveline lengths and angles in the next couple of days. Would love you thoughts and feedback.
I am planning on doing a part-time conversion with the current t-case. I love the idea of the HF1A, but will only go that way if its my only workable option. The cost of this conversion is... Let's just say I'M having a hard time justifying and rationalizing the project on some days and there's still lots more to do!!!!
Having said that, will the HF1A you're talking about bolt to the back of the A442F? Price with shipping?
Thanks!
 
HF2A converted to part time would be a better deal and may actually be better for your application behind the longer A442F, since the 7X specific H151F/HF1A mechanically engaged linkage may not be adaptable to the A442F case.

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I've declined interest in any HF1A electrically operated cases, due to the ability to convert the readily available US HF2As to similar, with the added benefit the HF2A has of crawler gear options and easy removal of the VC.

The crawler gears why I think a better deal than the electric HF1A, as well parts availability.

Gladly have an electric HF1A sent, but would probably be even money with the conversion.

As far as I know, "A" and "H" Series transmissions share "HF" transfer cases and are interchangeable through the
A343F, at least, but variations on the shifters and/or TC linkages may be 70, 80, 100 specific.

In the same limited knowledge the statement that the H15X/HF1A mechanical case is a 7X specific, only, knowing of no auto or other vehicle that didn't have the motorized operation.

Yeah, a little wordy.

Anyhow, whichever part time case chosen does eliminate part of the concern, since unhappy drive shaft joints will constantly express their discontent.

The rear shouldn't be a big issue, but could always swap to the actual HF2A case (cause you'll want to pull the VC, anyway) to buy a few inches.

Front still may be tricky.
 
wongtsenhin said:
This is what in my mind.:(
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It shouldn't be an issue as the chips will clear and be blown out the impeller of the turbo when you fire it up. Next time though, try running the drill bit at slow RPMs and keep the bit lathered with wheel bearing grease which will catch and retain the chips.
 
i have a spare h150/1 transfer linkage if you need it. as delancy said it does not look like it will bolt to the trans. my 151 did not have the right case so i ordered one from amayama and put it on. and bought a new piece by piece t case lever before finding one on ebay.au at the last minute (doh!)
 
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