Build PiM '96 LX450 Build Thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I ordered a bunch of hardware from McMaster-Carr, for an experiment towards getting the rear hatch to open by itself once it's unlatched

PXL_20201024_165223046.webp


The experiment failed, the geometry simply doesn't allow the springs to push the hatch usefully for the first 15° or so, approximately. The hatch would need a perpendicular force applied near the bottom of the hatch for this to work.

I think I'll give up on it, since my long term plan is to have a rear bumper with a spare tire swingout, which a self-lifting hatch would invariably hit.

Maybe now I'll get back to that center console...

Cheers
 
update with impressions of the sound deadening project?
 
When I took my Lexus out this morning, the window controls on the driver's door didn't work. The controls on the other doors were still good, and the window lock and door lock control both still worked on the driver's door, but the actual window control didn't work.

I measured the voltage of the power coming into the driver's window control switch, and it only measured around 1.5V. I measured the voltage in the other doors, and they all measured 12V. The power splits between the driver's door and the other doors and then goes right into connector BN1 for the driver's door.

PXL_20210101_201142585.webp


I opened up the kick panel to measure the voltage at BN1, Terminal 1, and found some crusties

PXL_20210101_192026169.webp


I cut back a little of the bundle sheathing and tugged on the wire, only for it to break immediately

PXL_20210101_192432672.webp


It seems as though when the sunroof drain was clogged over the years, the channel that the drain runs through would back up with water, and these connectors are in that channel as well. Luckily, it looks like this was the only terminal and wire that was affected. I replaced the terminal and the corroded portion of the wire, and now everything works properly again.

Cheers
 
Really liking this thread, what a clean unit.

The leather seats and cosmetics, very nice.

Looking forward to your updated pics of the console when you get upholstery into it. They way you laminated pieces together seems pretty smart.

Would enjoy seeing pics of how you do the upholstery on it in steps if you have the time, I might consider trying to replicate it one day
 
AzLib said:
How is the ride now any updates from sound deadening and overall feel.
Click to expand...

The ride is pretty good. I might look into different shocks and springs in the future, but I'm also considering lifting it a few inches, so I won't bother researching ride quality of different brands of shocks and springs until I decide on a ride height. As far as the sound deadening is concerned, it's made a substantial difference. Previously, at highway speed, I couldn't hear my stereo over all of the other noise unless the stereo was at a ridiculous volume. Now, I don't have that problem at all. It'll get even quieter once I replace the shifter boot gasket, having recently discovered that it's ripped, and get around to finishing my center consoles and installing them.

Cheers
 
cody c said:
Really liking this thread, what a clean unit.

The leather seats and cosmetics, very nice.

Looking forward to your updated pics of the console when you get upholstery into it. They way you laminated pieces together seems pretty smart.

Would enjoy seeing pics of how you do the upholstery on it in steps if you have the time, I might consider trying to replicate it one day
Click to expand...

The plywood console will only be temporary, so I won't bother upholstering it. I was going to upholster it and make it a permanent fixture in my Lexus once I finished the matching shifter console. Unfortunately, while working on the shifter console, I decided that plywood wouldn't afford me the geometry that I wanted on it, and I would have to make it out of metal. I wouldn't want mismatched consoles, since they're supposed to visually flow as one console, so I decided I'd make the center console in metal as well. The major roadblock to making the consoles out of metal is my complete lack of experience with metal fabrication, so I've been taking my time learning how to tig weld so that when I finally start to build those consoles this summer, they should hopefully turn out well. Once they're fabricated, I'll likely paint or powder coat them, I don't think I'll upholster them.

Cheers
 
I replaced the shift lever boot because the old boot was torn and crumbling, leaving me with a gaping hole where the shifter linkage goes through the floor. The Toyota part number is 33555-60071, it's still available new, and the replacement took a few hours because it requires quite a bit of disassembly to get to the boot.

s-l400.webp


Cheers
 
ProjectsNMotion said:
I replaced the shift lever boot because the old boot was torn and crumbling, leaving me with a gaping hole where the shifter linkage goes through the floor. The Toyota part number is 33555-60071, it's still available new, and the replacement took a few hours because it requires quite a bit of disassembly to get to the boot.

View attachment 2613732

Cheers
Click to expand...
And don’t lose the little metal crush sleeves for each bolt, they are hard to find!
 
ProjectsNMotion said:
The best cheap tool that anyone can get for automotive work is a magnetic tray. Even better, get a bunch of them.

-Will
Click to expand...
That and magnetic extendable pickup tool.
 
ProjectsNMotion said:
The best cheap tool that anyone can get for automotive work is a magnetic tray. Even better, get a bunch of them.

-Will
Click to expand...
Oh, absolutely! Just gotta make sure those pieces make it TO the mag tray though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom