pesky heater hose

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

RFB

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Threads
353
Messages
3,748
Location
Nahant Ma.
Website
www.youtube.com
so ive got the PHH off and the top hose off as well(in the engine bay) I took the 12mm bolt off the top bracket(to remove the metal tube PHH connects and yet theres another bracket bolt a couple inches above the PHH pointing in towards firewall how the F%$# does that come off?? Im dying here
 
Ah HA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! your the man. I didnt think by pass at all.
 
Use Gates 5/8 Hose and Breeze Constant Torque Clamps (Napa).
Like the Challenger you don't want this one to fail.
PHH
 
NLXTACY said:
No need to remove it but if you prefer just snap it off and run a hose to bypass the tube.
Click to expand...
just ordered it, its not pesky its really bad design on such a beast of a vehicle. I took top bolt out and still dont have enough play to put on new hose, not without bending the tube. that would derive me insane plus I cut thru top hose and of course cut the heater vavle assembly SO a new one on its way. WTF
 
RFB said:
just ordered it, its not pesky its really bad design on such a beast of a vehicle. I took top bolt out and still dont have enough play to put on new hose, not without bending the tube. that would derive me insane plus I cut thru top hose and of course cut the heater vavle assembly SO a new one on its way. WTF
Click to expand...

Carefully inspect that heater control valve. They deteriorate from the inside out.
 
NLXTACY said:
Rich, it's going in the mail now.
Click to expand...
So should i cut the tubing out?? Ive tried everything and Im fairly good with my tools and NADA it wont flex and I cant the new hose in there. cut it?? and thanks Joey
 
RFB said:
So should i cut the tubing out?? Ive tried everything and Im fairly good with my tools and NADA it wont flex and I cant the new hose in there. cut it?? and thanks Joey
Click to expand...
The metal tube? Just remove the top bolt, and flex back and forth to snap the bracket on the bottom bolt to remove. From there you can decide whether to replace in the stock config or bypass the whole metal tube. Im going on some 5+ with the bypass route without issue, but other will argue to stay stock. IMHO both work and each to their own.
 
I stayed stock but the job was a pretty big PITA. It's a well known causing of extended cursing.
 
I do not want to alter stock when its not needed(says the guy with a 6 in lifted, supercharged ai lined heavliy modded) rig, im trying to offset wrench but have bypass hose enroute, ty joey witsend rules
 
I just use gear wrench coming in from the top to get the middle bolt loose or out, once the top bolt is out like said above you can rock it to break tab or do my way get middle bolt little loose or out if you leave it in the middle loose you can then pivot the tube, I put the hose back on the block first all the way then line up the tube and push with the flat off your hand and it will insert into the tube all the way, have your block clamp on and the tube clamp on before you insert
 
  • Like
Reactions: RFB
That one takes the longest of all the hoses on these trucks, I think all other hoses took less than an hour to remove and replace, but the phh took close to 2 hours because I didn't have my tongue just right. I went with OEM for all but that one used a silicone hose with breeze constant torque clamps. Also used a bit of dawn dish soap to lube it up a bit and it slides on "easier"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom