Pertronix in, won't start

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Hello,
I have been using the Pertronix unit in 3 of my older cars for more than 10 years.
#1. Make sure you have a reliable 12V power source to the coil, using the original wires from the points setup did not work well(for me) the Toyota igniior relay has alot of magic inside.
#2 The Pertronix coil is a 12V unit, no ballast resistor, in fact it will not work with the resistor(ask me how I know).
#3 Get a 3B diesel and chuck the Pertronix and boat anchor attached to it.
#4 Check the coil, unhook the Pertronix from the coil, with the positive side powered up, momentarily ground the (-) terminal, you should be able to get a spark from the coul wire to the block.
I would take a jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the coil(eliminate the magic factor) and crank the engine.
If the engine starts its the wiring going to the Pertronix. If the engine doesn't start double check the ignitor(pertronix) wiring. If wired correctly the Pertronics ignitor module is bad(doubt it).
Report back
eric
 
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Otterav, yes, I've checked all that. I am getting current through the terminals of the coil, however, I am not getting current through the high tension terminal of the coil. No spark at least.

Ive been doing all my tests with the coil connected directly to the battery as well, to make sure the power source is clean and consistent.
 
GreenBomber said:
Otterav, yes, I've checked all that. I am getting current through the terminals of the coil, however, I am not getting current through the high tension terminal of the coil. No spark at least.

Ive been doing all my tests with the coil connected directly to the battery as well, to make sure the power source is clean and consistent.
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Go back to your original coil, 12V for a short period will be fine.
Try that next.
eric
 
I, just saw your post. I've got the old coil I pulled out of my F when I installed my Pertronix. You are welcome to borrow it if you need to...it's just sitting on the shelf in my garage so no worries.
 
Thanks Calixto, I appreciates it ;)

I just tested both my coils resistance from the + and - terminals to the high tension terminal, and am getting 10,500 ohms, which after researching, looks good... I am also getting 2.5 ohms across the terminals. Wouldn't this now suggest my coil is OK?

I don't understand why I am not getting a frigging spark though the high tension lead. Grrrrrr...
 
OK, what am I doing wrong.

NEVERMIND the pertronix Ignitor. I'm taking that out of the equation.

TESTING THE COIL:
I'm just trying to get a spark from the high tension lead of the coil. I've tested the following on BOTH my new Pertronix coil and my old Nippon Denso coil which worked before I pulled the points off.

What I have done (to both coils):

A)
1) Tested resistance between (+) and (-) terminals. Getting about 1.5 ohms

2) Tested resistance between (+) and high tension lead. Getting about 10,500 ohms

B)
Soldered up a beefy positive and negative lead straight from the battery and connected directly to their respective terminals on coil. Made sure my high tension lead wire was properly connected, inserted a spark plug, held against the block (and (-) terminal on batt) and pulled the (-) wire from the battery that lead to the coil (-) terminal.

NO SPARK on BOTH coils.... ?!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How the HELL am I not getting any spark? What am I doing wrong?! There's nothing more simple than connecting the coil straight to the battery with a full charge, pulling the - lead off and directing the current to the high tension lead.

Ugh. Im about to pull my hair out. Both coils registered fine with the multimeter, but, aren't working as they should.

I've also connected the entire setup with both coils, and nothing obviously. I'm so confused. ;(
 
If you are testing them in the sun light with a spark plug, you may not be able to see the spark. Do it in the dark or hold the end of the high voltage wire about 1/4 inch from the block and test for a spark. You can hear the spark jump a wider gap. You also get a real nice spark at the - wire when you disconnect it from ground.
 
OK, I see what you are doing wrong... ;) You misunderstood what I meant when I said to ground the coil... :D

Connect the plus + from battery to + on coil just like you have been doing

Connect a wire to the - side of coil but do NOT connect it to ANYTHING else just yet...

Connect the spark plug to the center as you did before.

Ground the spark plug by holding the threads against the block.

Now Touch the wire you attached to the - side of the coil to a good ground then TAKE IT OFF QUICKLY.

Do this several times, you should see a spark each time you remove the ground.
 
Coolerman, yes, thats what I been doing!

Its been in the day light, but, I was doing it last night as well, in the evening. I hear no spark from the high tension lead.

I do get a good spark from the wire which runs from the (-) side of the coil to the battery!! Thats all I get tho. :(

:/
 
Yep, tried that one too... I checked the ohm's in the wires to make sure that wasn't the problem.

Just tested and its 2.5 ohm's for the wires.

Umm... and I'm a little slow, but, just to make sure...

If I have my digital multimeter on @ the 20k Ohm setting, and it reads 2.5, it means 2.5 ohms right? I don't understand why I can't measure 2.5 ohm's on the smaller settings...it wont read anything. Weird.
 
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GreenBomber said:
If I have my digital multimeter on @ the 20k Ohm setting, and it reads 2.5, it means 2.5 ohms right? I don't understand why I can't measure 2.5 ohm's on the smaller settings...it wont read anything. Weird.
Click to expand...

No. That means 2500 ohms. So if your meter is on the 2K setting (or anything lower), it'll show as open.
 
Ok whew thanks. I remember doing multiples with ohms, and then Voltage is just the range setting.

So, are the spark plug wires supposed to have that high of a resistance?!!
 
GreenBomber said:
Coolerman, yes, thats what I been doing!

Its been in the day light, but, I was doing it last night as well, in the evening. I hear no spark from the high tension lead.

I do get a good spark from the wire which runs from the (-) side of the coil to the battery!! Thats all I get tho. :(

:/
Click to expand...
There is your problem, the + wire goes to the positive side of the battery. The (-) is intended to be a momentary ground. The coil will only produce the spark when the (-) is disconnected and the produced magnetic field collapses and causes a spark. Why you ask? I don't know its magic, but the key is the collapse of the magnetic field, unhook the (-) and that is when you will get the spark.
Hola
eric
 
Yep yep, I understand that!

The circuit must be broken from the low voltage to cause the high voltage circuit to be complete. As soon as I take off the negative, the high tension lead should get the quick, high impacted voltage. Ive been reading a ton on how coils work so I could understand what the hell Im doing. I understand it now, (so I think), and even though the possibility is very slim, I guess I could have 2 bad coils, but, i'm having a hard time believing that.
 
Pertronix standard.

And if you're wondering if I had left it in the ON position for an extended period of time, nope, I didn't. :)
 
ok,...well just wanted to add that I personally burned up a standard Pertronics, and the key was not on very long,...but one sign is if the little sticker on the unit is smudged, you can tell it got hot,...mine was toast and only installed for 10 minutes.

I switched to a Pertronics II and no more problems, so I was just sharing. Randy
 
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