Pertronix Coli issue

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Joined
Jul 30, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
29
Location
Flag, AZ
I am hoping to see if someone can point me in the right direction and help me troubleshoot some problems I am having with my 77 daily driver. I changed over to Pertronix electronic ignition about 4 months ago and ditched the points in the distributor I also installed a flamethrower coil 1.5 ohms. Last Weekend while driving to a trail head and taking a rather good bump the coil died. It was completely dead and I had to use the original coil to get me back home.
When using the original coil the cruiser was running bad I had to keep it at lower RPM otherwise very rough and seemingly missing but I got home.

I since read up on the Pertronix coils and bought a Pertronix 3ohms epoxy filled coil being recommended on another thread and I believe the pertronix coil I was using is oiled filled which could be why it failed.

The problem I am having is after installing the new 3ohms flamethrower coil the Cruiser is running the same with the original coil. I also am wondering if I have the coil wired properly or if I did something wrong and caused the premature failure
PXL_20260828_021914515.MP.webp
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See the underlined info.
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AI Overview



The PerTronix 40611 Ignitor Epoxy Filled Coil is a 40,000-volt ignition coil designed with 3.0 ohms of primary resistance for high-vibration applications. [1, 2]

Key Features
    • Voltage Output: Rated at 40,000 volts for a hotter spark and larger plug gaps. [1]
    • Internal Resistance: Features 3.0 ohms of resistance, meaning it is internally resisted and does not require an external ballast resistor. [1, 2]
    • Epoxy Filling: Solid epoxy internal construction replaces traditional oil to lock windings in place. [1, 2]
    • Vibration Resistance: Built for high-vibration environments like off-road trucks, boats, and air-cooled classic cars (such as VW and Porsche). [1, 2]
    • Mounting Flexibility: Unlike oil-filled coils, epoxy coils can be mounted in any position—including sideways or upside down—without leaking or failing. [1]

Compatibility
    • Works seamlessly with PerTronix Ignitor I electronic ignition conversions as well as traditional points-based systems.
    • Typically used on 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder 12-volt negative ground systems. [1, 2, 3]
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Just bypass the resistor by steeling the power from the one side of it. 12v end. Where is the igniter wired to usually to the coil I’ve had band luck with the flamethrower epoxy coils. It should run fine with your old coil also. Have you checked the timing. Maybe dizzy moved.
 
Just bypass the resistor by steeling the power from the one side of it. 12v end. Where is the igniter wired to usually to the coil I’ve had band luck with the flamethrower epoxy coils. It should run fine with your old coil also. Have you checked the timing. Maybe dizzy moved.
I will check timing, It is very odd how poorly it is running when it was running perfectly. I hit a pot holes and instantly died. I narrowed it down to the the coil but now it is basically not drivable. I haven't had a chance due to weather to try and troubleshoot. I have heard that the ground strap in the dizzy can break causing problems.
You mentioned not liking the Flamethrower are you using something else?
 
Ditch the ballast resistor. I run a Pertronix kit with the stock Toyota internally resisted coil. Works great.
 
Ditch the ballast resistor. I run a Pertronix kit with the stock Toyota internally resisted coil. Works great.
I concur. Running the same, basically.
 
I discovered that my voltage regulator is not functioning properly I am getting between 11v and 14v at the coil. What is the current recommendation should I replace the voltage regulator or should I get a new alternator?
 
My 72 has an adjustable voltage regulator on the fire wall. I had to clean the contacts once. Dad and I took the alternator apart back in 87 before I left for university to clean, inspect, and lube it. PIA had to drill out a screw head to get it apart. Local Toyota dealer rob a screw from a core and gave it to me. We did the starter too. All 3 pieces are still there and working.

Having spare parts on hand is a good thing.
Your alternator might have an internal regulator - so replace it and learn how to fix/adjust the one you have.

Clean the pivot bolt and locking bolt. Same for the bracket mount - to make sure you have a good ground. Make sure your engine has a good ground too. Then clean the terminals and wires on the alternator itself. See if that fixes it.
 
I think I mis-spoke, I have a OEM alternator and the voltage regulator is external here is a picture. The problem I am facing is even with the new coil it is continuing to run poorly and seems to be loading up (like it is not getting proper spark with higher RPM). I tested the input to the coil and it is reacting to the RPM of the motor so I was thinking the external regulator is not functioning properly. I also noticed that as I changed out the coil from original my dash lights do not work?
PXL_20260907_200922529.MP.webp
 
That cover will come off so you can inspect/adjust the unit. The manual has the procedure/specs. Pull the plug apart, clean the contacts in both sides. Qtip a little dielectric grease on the surfaces.

free download manuals
 
I think I mis-spoke, I have a OEM alternator and the voltage regulator is external here is a picture. The problem I am facing is even with the new coil it is continuing to run poorly and seems to be loading up (like it is not getting proper spark with higher RPM). I tested the input to the coil and it is reacting to the RPM of the motor so I was thinking the external regulator is not functioning properly. I also noticed that as I changed out the coil from original my dash lights do not work? View attachment 4208914
I was able to find a compatible VR at a chain auto store that got me by until I found an OE one. Got that one from Matt at vintageTEQ parts but I’m sure they are out there as ordering stuff from Matt can be a bit of an… adventure?
 
A (very) fast Google shows that Cruiser Teq and City Racer both offer them.
 
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