Painting OEM steel wheels (1 Viewer)

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kiwidog

Kiwidog
Joined
Sep 5, 2005
Threads
35
Messages
347
Location
Red Deer Alberta
Have 5 steel OEM steel wheels that needed to be cleaned up and painted.
Sand blasted them the remove the rust and to get down to a good base. Ground the dents the knobs from the outed rims. Most of them where pretty good. The outside edge thad the most minor dents. The inside edge had almost none.
Little in of heavy rust pitting on the bead edge of some, hopefully with paint the tubeless tire will seal well enough.
Had to think of away to paint all of the three surfaces with out touching the wheel surface. This is what we came up with. A few pieces of 1" diameter hardwood dowel and a few 2x4's screwed to the sawhorses. Used a couple of small washers and a wood screw to hold them on to the jig. Worked pretty well except for the blister on the left hand from turning them.
Have the 2 part etching primer on them now and have 7 day window to apply the top coat without sanding the primer. The primer is just about the same colour as the the top coat to come.
Took just under 1 litre of primer to give them two coats. Have about two litres of topcoat so should be able to give them two or three good coats, with some left over for other parts. Not too thick and not too thin. Maybe 5 to 6 mls when all finished.
Going to mount 33x10.5x15 BFG mud terrains on them.
wheel 1.jpg
wheel 6.jpg
wheel 3.jpg
 
couple more pictures

Primer and paint jig
wheel 4.jpg
wheel 2.jpg
wheel 5.jpg
 
Nice. Good job.
 
more pictures

The mount system didn't take long. Painting is all in the preparation, if you don't have the patience to do the prep work you most likely won't get a good job.
Thinking about how to do it, took a good long walk with the dog.
Haven't got a paint code. Had the paint custom mixed it to a colour on a rattle can I found that was real close. The colour was called "court gray" from our local Coop store.
Wouldn't want to use a rattle can for a job this big. The hvlp gun takes long enough if your get it set right. I found some instructions for setting the gun on the EPA web site. The idea is to set the spray pattern first. Then turn the pattern nozzle so you shot a horizontal pattern. Spray on some paper held vertically and adjust the paint volume to give you an even pattern with no runs in the middle pattern with just very short burst. Works great and you then don't put too much paint on and get runs. Once you have pattern and paint volume set you turn the pattern nozzle back to shot a vertical pattern, which is used most of the time You have to have it with just enough volume that you have a wet edge so the paint is not going on dusty( too dry).
Here's a couple more pictures of the top coat completed.

Thanks jb
wheel 7.jpg
wheel 8.jpg
wheel 9.jpg
 
Looks great, don't forget to post up some pics when you get them mounted up.. I went back to steel wheels and original caps (black thought) and really like the looks and the drive.
 
Just a little tip. Try simply hanging your parts with some wire the next time you a paint. You'll get better coverage and you won't have to build a huge rig to mount your parts on!

Oh, a question, too: What kind of self etching primer did you use that you can paint directly over?
 
Last edited:
wheels

Hi Spangly,

Thought about hanging them with wire. That's what i usually do with small parts. Thought there would better coverage if they could be turned. Have got pretty well full coverage except for the part covered by mounting bracket. Can easily paint that this week and its on the back so doesn't really matter quite as much.
The paint I used is called Endura. It is made in Edmonton and used extensively in the oil patch here. They have quite an extensive range.
I said etching primer should have said epoxy primer. The one I used is EP FD, it has been discontinued because of higher VOC's and the 30 minute induction time. You can still get it however I don't think in small sizes.
The top coat is EX 2C

http://www.endura.ca/pdf/TDS/epfdepoxyprimer.pdf

http://www.endura.ca/pdf/TDS/ex2ctopcoat.pdf

Hope this helps.

Thanks jb
 
I did mine with rattle cans in the winter in a non heated garage , they didn't come out as shiney/glossy as I would of liked , I couldn't wait till warmer weather arrived . Remember to get them static ballanced so the weights go on the inside .

P1030276-1.jpg
 

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