P0420 and P0430 - 2006 LC (1 Viewer)

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always Toyota red coolant.

i don't think i have gunk build up on manifold as i am very cautious for any leaks. i will check tonight and take some pics.
Also, i will clean and swap the the front sensors (air fuel sensor) and see if the code moves.
If this is your 2007, Toyota SLL pink antifreeze is correct application. Whereas red & pink are interchangeable, it changes the flushing cycle to the more restrictive: which is "The early of 30K miles or 2yrs with Toyota LL RED".
 
HELP NEEDED - CODE P0430

I have read through this link, and tried several of the suggestions - I only have a basic code reader but I'm not entirely sure what I am looking for.

06 Land Cruiser - 183,000 miles throws P0430 code every 30-100 miles with the normal check engine light etc. illuminating.

Things I have done -
- cleared code
-cleaned throttle body and MAF Sensor
-Cleaned PCV valve
-checked each spark plug - they were installed at approx. 170k miles and still look new
-New Air and Fuel Filter
-Checked for Exhaust or manifold leaks
-checked for vacuum leaks
-93 octane fuel with lucas fuel conditioner
-checked the connections for the AF and O2 sensors.
- Switched the 02 Sensors left to right-right to left - code P0430 reappeared so I'm guessing O2 sensors are fine (it has never had a P0420 code)

Possible problems - bad cat on bank 2? Bad AF Sensor on Bank 2? Other options?

Can those with more experience than me take a look at the freeze frame data in the photos and tell me if you see any obvious issues?

I have ordered the ebay techstream cable and software but it is not in yet

thanks for any assistance you can offer

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more photos
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The code that you have is a catalytic converter below threshold code and relates to a catalytic converter code. According to snap on's shop stream software it is about a 60% chance of being a catalytic converter and only 40% chance of being an oxygen sensor or an air fuel sensor.
Once you have ruled out the air fuel sensors and the oxygen sensors by swapping them if the code still persists then your catalytic converter truly is below threshold specs.
You may have noticed from my previous threads that I am dealing with a catalytic converter that is on the threshold and will throw the code sometimes and won't other times.
Good luck with solving your problem and please post your Solutions and your progress on this thread as it will help others that will come after us.
 
HELP NEEDED - CODE P0430

I have read through this link, and tried several of the suggestions - I only have a basic code reader but I'm not entirely sure what I am looking for.

06 Land Cruiser - 183,000 miles throws P0430 code every 30-100 miles with the normal check engine light etc. illuminating.

Things I have done -
- cleared code
-cleaned throttle body and MAF Sensor
-Cleaned PCV valve
-checked each spark plug - they were installed at approx. 170k miles and still look new
-New Air and Fuel Filter
-Checked for Exhaust or manifold leaks
-checked for vacuum leaks
-93 octane fuel with lucas fuel conditioner
-checked the connections for the AF and O2 sensors.
- Switched the 02 Sensors left to right-right to left - code P0430 reappeared so I'm guessing O2 sensors are fine (it has never had a P0420 code)

Possible problems - bad cat on bank 2? Bad AF Sensor on Bank 2? Other options?

Can those with more experience than me take a look at the freeze frame data in the photos and tell me if you see any obvious issues?

I have ordered the ebay techstream cable and software but it is not in yet

thanks for any assistance you can offer

I am on the same boat, I ordered Denso AF and will replace them once received.
Read few posts and most of them solved the code with the sensors. So I am going the cheap way.
 

I am on the same boat, I ordered Denso AF and will replace them once received.
Read few posts and most of them solved the code with the sensors. So I am going the cheap way.
 
I will.
Ordered from aliexpress half price from Amazon (54$)
 
i was watching a youtube video and came across this



then i remembered what 2001LC said regarding coolant leak inside manifold intake. went and checked and i have no gunk around the manifold however, i have some loss in the coolant. check all the hoses and found zero leaks. could it be moisture gets inside the manifold thru a "thin gasket" as 2001LC described in page 10 and trigger the p0430 code?

how hard is it to replace the gasket? do you have step by step process?
 
Here are some pics I took

No leaks but some sand

or this is not where leaks should appear?


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If you are losing coolant, that is an important clue. Find that leak first. I don't have experience with that thin gasket and hope those who do will chime in.
Question: Do you smell any antifreeze after you park the car when it's warm?
Also check the plastic heater hose "T's" back by the firewall on the driver's side. Mine crumbled when I went to replace them as a P.M.
What year and miles do you have?
Thanks
 
If you are losing coolant, that is an important clue. Find that leak first. I don't have experience with that thin gasket and hope those who do will chime in.
Question: Do you smell any antifreeze after you park the car when it's warm?
Also check the plastic heater hose "T's" back by the firewall on the driver's side. Mine crumbled when I went to replace them as a P.M.
What year and miles do you have?
Thanks
Thanks for your reply

No I don't smell antifreeze when I park nor I see leaks in the Ts or other hoses.
I replaced the Ts 7 months ago.
I have 07 lx with 172xxxmiles
 
i was watching a youtube video and came across this



then i remembered what 2001LC said regarding coolant leak inside manifold intake. went and checked and i have no gunk around the manifold however, i have some loss in the coolant. check all the hoses and found zero leaks. could it be moisture gets inside the manifold thru a "thin gasket" as 2001LC described in page 10 and trigger the p0430 code?

how hard is it to replace the gasket? do you have step by step process?
To be clear: Intake manifold does not have coolant running through it. The leak was at the bottom of intake where gasket seals it to the heads intake ports. That said, the coolant leak was in front of the intake manifold and ~1/2" lower at the bypass water joint front RH. Coolant, traveling from leak back along outside of intake could enter the heads intake ports through this intake gasket leak.

Head gaskets are a big job, intake gaskets are much easier.

Make sure you check coolant level after 8 hour cool down. Also be mind full, that ambient temperature also will change the coolant level. Like if it 10*f you'll get a low level, or 90*F you get a higher level with same amount in system.

If you still suspect a coolant leak have your coolant system pressure tested over night.

Here are some pics I took

No leaks but some sand

or this is not where leaks should appear?


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I can't see bottom half of your plastic intake ports real well. But from what I do see they look dry (no oily build up). This would indicate you've a good seal at intake gasket.
 
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i still keep getting the P0430 every 200-300 Miles i clear it right away. This weekend, i decided to replace my K&N air filter and have paper filter (as backup when i clean K&N). Once i installed it, i drove off and code triggered right away(didn't clear it yet). i thought maybe this new filter has more breathable air Than K&N so, decided to clean MAF and see if the Code will disappear, it didn't so i cleared it.

While i was checking the rear pressure after installing new springs and spacer (Thanks Baddo Pressure is perfect now) i found a code in TIS C1340 which is Open circuit in central differential lock signal. all my search on the code was getting same result except one :

C1340 Engine Code Meaning - C1340 Engine Trouble Code - How To Fix C1340 | EngineCodes.net

Doesn't that confirm the need of sensor replacement?
"i am still waiting on my sensors to be delivered and replaced"

oh i forgot to mention, O2s seem to work find according to TIS

Thoughts?
 
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i still keep getting the P0430 every 200-300 Miles i clear it right away. This weekend, i decided to replace my K&N air filter and have paper filter (as backup when i clean K&N). Once i installed it, i drove off and code triggered right away(didn't clear it yet). i thought maybe this new filter has more breathable air Than K&N so, decided to clean MAF and see if the Code will disappear, it didn't so i cleared it.

While i was checking the rear pressure after installing new springs and spacer (Thanks Baddo Pressure is perfect now) i found a code in TIS C1340 which is Open circuit in central differential lock signal. all my search on the code was getting same result except one :

C1340 Engine Code Meaning - C1340 Engine Trouble Code - How To Fix C1340 | EngineCodes.net

Doesn't that confirm the need of sensor replacement?
"i am still waiting on my sensors to be delivered and replaced"

oh i forgot to mention, O2s seem to work find according to TIS

Thoughts?
K&N filter allows more air, more than any good paper filter I know of!
 
K&N filter allows more air, more than any good paper filter I know of!

with our dusty weather here in middle east, it gets very dirty really fast and clogged the air.

i will be using it again but i bought a paper filter when i clean the K&N.

For K&N filter, i have seen good and bad reviews but i like it :)
 
with our dusty weather here in middle east, it gets very dirty really fast and clogged the air.

i will be using it again but i bought a paper filter when i clean the K&N.

For K&N filter, i have seen good and bad reviews but i like it :)
I pulled my K&N out after reading this Filtration Testing for Amsoil, K&N, Napa, Jackson Racing, Baldwin, and Mazda air filters on a Miata Inside of air tube I saw mild dirt/dust residue, not what I'd consider excessive after 20K miles, but I pulled anyway.

Edited: Be very careful not to over oil the K&N. Oil could mess up the charcoal filter or MAF sensor.
 
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I pulled my K&N out after reading this Filtration Testing for Amsoil, K&N, Napa, Jackson Racing, Baldwin, and Mazda air filters on a Miata Inside of air tube I saw mild dirt/dust residue, not what I'd consider excessive after 20K miles, but I pulled anyway.

Edited: Be very careful not to over oil the K&N. Oil could mess up the charcoal filter or MAF sensor.

ya i learned that at first time i did it. now i add very small amount of oil (barely red) and leave it overnight to absorb it.
 

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