Overheating and low power

[GypseaSoul]

97’ 1FZFE… overheating issues and low power uphill.

My recent maintenance started with an oil leak and worn belts.

I usually fix things that float, not cars, so bear with me I’m still green here, but I’d rather fix it myself and do it wrong than pay someone to do it wrong.

6 months ago a friend kindly replaced my (3yr old) worn belts for me but he ran them wrong and they lasted 4 months. The idler pulley was damaged too so I had a random shop replace them…they lasted 6weeks. After losing one of the belts completely I learned how and ran new ones myself leaving out the pulley. ( I didn’t have one at the time so I put just the bolt in its place)

Not sure if that has anything to do with anything, just trying to list everything I’ve done.

Two weeks before I changed the belts (the third time) I replaced the valve cover gasket twice (sort-of). Two of the seals went in a bit cockeyed (I didn’t realize and put it back together anyway) which caused oil to get in the cylinders leading to a misfire. So I replaced the seals, cleaned the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs.. everything ran great after but the Oil leak was not resolved.. so I did the distributor O-ring. I checked the timing afterward too. All Fine from there but still the oil still just seemed to f”@&$ fall out! (So yeah it’s the pump cover)
Sometime in there I started having overheating issues. I say sometime in there because I only discovered it after about 45min on the interstate. It Runs fine short distances.. I Flushed the radiator, replaced the cap, the thermostat, checked the hoses, replaced the heater valve... and it’s Still overheating on the interstate.
I Had the truck towed to a friends shop in North AL where I could get some help because at this point I felt in over my head. Meanwhile I ordered a new pesky heater hose and pipe, new radiator and hoses, water pump, oil pump gasket, front main seal.. etc. meanwhile My friend there test drove it and noticed I have trouble getting uphill. RPMs normal, didn’t overheat, just couldn’t get over 40mph. There are no hills where I live so I don’t know if this has been a problem that went unnoticed or they’re related. We’ve since found the PHH is original, but surprisingly is fine. A small hose above it was not and we replaced it. Even though that was a pretty obvious problem my friend thinks my overheating issue lies deeper like the catalytic converter. I did some research and changed the fuel filter but what next?? and Without getting on the interstate or running up hills how can I test what we’ve/I’ve done before digging deeper?? Still waiting on the radiator and more hose to drive it.

 

[jpoole]

If you don't have a similar setup already search around online for a bluetooth based odb2 sender, install the Torque app on your phone and then you can monitor your coolant temps much more closely.

You don't want to overheat these engines a lot in my opinion because the alu head and iron block are going to expand at different rates and exercise the headgasket more than is ideal.

In many cases, when the overall cooling system is in decent shape but the engine is still running hot the culprit is the fan clutch. I personally wouldn't own/drive one of these without changing the oil and setting the opening temp on the fan clutch very early in my ownership period. There can be other problems but the fan clutch is important and seems easy to overlook for newer owners. Read up on the forum for plenty of info on doing the service work on these.

 

[60 toy ota]

If you're really worried about engine internals i would start with a compression test and a cooling system pressure test. You can rent the tools to do this for free from your local auto parts store.
But unmetered air will make your truck an absolute dog. If your oil leak is significant enough it can bring in unmetered air, but being that you've removed your air intake hose several times I would bet you've got a good crack in the "flexible" part. Inspect this closely.
Are you throwing any codes?
How did you discover you were overheating?
When the belts let go, were you driving without them turning the water pump? For how long?
Btw I take it you're in the tupelo area?

 

[GypseaSoul]

If you're really worried about engine internals i would start with a compression test and a cooling system pressure test. You can rent the tools to do this for free from your local auto parts store.
But unmetered air will make your truck an absolute dog. If your oil leak is significant enough it can bring in unmetered air, but being that you've removed your air intake hose several times I would bet you've got a good crack in the "flexible" part. Inspect this closely.
Are you throwing any codes?
How did you discover you were overheating?
When the belts let go, were you driving without them turning the water pump? For how long?
Btw I take it you're in the tupelo area?

I’m on the coast.. only code was when I misfired. Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun. That and I can kinda just sense it. I only threw one belt and still in short distances it did alright with the one, probably only drove 15miles on it?. I did buy a coolant pressure test kit, but not compression…

 

[GypseaSoul]

I’m on the coast.. only code was when I misfired. Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun. That and I can kinda just sense it. I only threw one belt and still in short distances it did alright with the one, probably only drove 15miles on it?. I did buy a coolant pressure test kit, but not compression…

I’m on the coast.. only code was when I misfired. Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun. That and I can kinda just sense it. I only threw one belt and still in short distances it did alright with the one, probably only drove 15miles on it?. I did buy a coolant pressure test kit, but not compression…

sorry, I live on the coast but the cruiser is temporarily in the huntsville area

 

[Kernal]

@GypseaSoul :

It's a bit hard to follow the sequence of events so if you don't mind here's a few questions:
(and because I asked 47 questions IMHO it may help to answer each one separately ie: copy and paste from below then write your answer after each question)


Here goes:

Did the "overheating" first start after losing one (or both?) alternator belts?
You mentioned that you drove it for 15 miles after losing one belt, is that when the overheating started?
Did a red light come on (top right of the instrument cluster) after you lost a belt?
Are both replacement alternator belts now properly tensioned?

When the engine overheats (after replacing the belts) what exactly happens, does the instrument panel temp gauge peg out at the top, in the Red?
You mentioned : "Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun"
So you pull over because (?? loss of power or??) then check the engine (where exactly) with your IR thermometer, and what Temps does that show?

Does the engine misfire at the same time as when it's "overheating"?
Does the engine misfire when it loses power (and how do you know it's misfiring: bucking, tachometer jumping, or codes??)
What engine codes have you pulled from the OBDII connector?
Does the radiator push coolant into the overflow tank?
Have you had to add coolant to the radiator/overflow tank (losing coolant)?
Do you see vigorous boiling/bubbling of the coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank?
Do you see any changes in the appearance of the engine oil or the radiator coolant since this started?
Do you see any increase in vapor out the tailpipe, any sweet smelling exhaust vapor?

 

[GypseaSoul]

If you don't have a similar setup already search around online for a bluetooth based odb2 sender, install the Torque app on your phone and then you can monitor your coolant temps much more closely.

You don't want to overheat these engines a lot in my opinion because the alu head and iron block are going to expand at different rates and exercise the headgasket more than is ideal.

In many cases, when the overall cooling system is in decent shape but the engine is still running hot the culprit is the fan clutch. I personally wouldn't own/drive one of these without changing the oil and setting the opening temp on the fan clutch very early in my ownership period. There can be other problems but the fan clutch is important and seems easy to overlook for newer owners. Read up on the forum for plenty of info on doing the service work on these.

Thank you! I’ll look into that Odb2. I definitely try to baby it if I suspect it’s overheating. I’ve had it for 80,000 miles just about and as far as I can remember the fan clutch hasn’t been changed but when I lost the belt it did wrap around the fan (shaft)? Fan still ran but not sure if it stopped atIdk what you’d call that sorry. So…

Hard to follow the sequence of events so if you don't mind here's a few questions:
(and because I asked 47 questions IMHO it may help to answer each one separately ie: copy and paste from below then write your answer after each question)

Did the "overheating" first start after losing one (or both?) alternator belts?
And you drove it for 15 miles after losing one belt, is that when the overheating started?
Did a red light come on (top right of the instrument cluster) after you lost a belt?
Are both replacement alternator belts now properly tensioned?

When the engine overheats (after replacing the belts) what exactly happens, does the instrument panel temp gauge peg out at the top, in the Red?
You mentioned : "Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun"
So you pull over because (?? loss of power or??) then check the engine (where exactly) with your IR thermometer, and what Temps does that show?

Does the engine misfire at the same time as when it's "overheating"?
Does the engine misfire when it loses power (and how do you know it's misfiring: bucking, tachometer jumping, or codes??)
What engine codes have you pulled from the OBDII connector?
Does the radiator push coolant into the overflow tank?
Have you had to add coolant to the radiator/overflow tank (losing coolant)?
Do you see vigorous boiling/bubbling of the coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank?
Do you see any changes in the appearance of the engine oil or the radiator coolant since this started?
Do you see any increase in vapor out the tailpipe, any sweet smelling exhaust vapor?

Ok I can do that.
Did the "overheating" first start after losing one (or both?) alternator belts? And you drove it for 15 miles after losing one belt, is that when the overheating started?
- Honestly, I cannot remember if it started before or after. I’m going after dates on pictures. once a week I work 90 miles out of town I was on the interstate when I suspected something noticed the overheating about 45min into the drive I pulled over because I could smell it. There was steam coming from the back of the engine by the Heater valve and hissing somewhere underneath in the middle. I let it cool and put coolant in.


Did a red light come on (top right of the instrument cluster) after you lost a belt?
Are both replacement alternator belts now properly tensioned?

When the engine overheats (after replacing the belts) what exactly happens, does the instrument panel temp gauge peg out at the top, in the Red?
You mentioned : "Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun"
So you pull over because (?? loss of power or??) then check the engine (where exactly) with your IR thermometer, and what Temps does that show?

Does the engine misfire at the same time as when it's "overheating"?
Does the engine misfire when it loses power (and how do you know it's misfiring: bucking, tachometer jumping, or codes??)
What engine codes have you pulled from the OBDII connector?
Does the radiator push coolant into the overflow tank?
Have you had to add coolant to the radiator/overflow tank (losing coolant)?
Do you see vigorous boiling/bubbling of the coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank?
Do you see any changes in the appearance of the engine oil or the radiator coolant since this started?
Do you see any increase in vapor out the tailpipe, any sweet smelling exhaust vapor?

@GypseaSoul :

It's a bit hard to follow the sequence of events so if you don't mind here's a few questions:
(and because I asked 47 questions IMHO it may help to answer each one separately ie: copy and paste from below then write your answer after each question)


Here's goes:

Did the "overheating" first start after losing one (or both?) alternator belts?
You mentioned that you drove it for 15 miles after losing one belt, is that when the overheating started?
Did a red light come on (top right of the instrument cluster) after you lost a belt?
Are both replacement alternator belts now properly tensioned?

When the engine overheats (after replacing the belts) what exactly happens, does the instrument panel temp gauge peg out at the top, in the Red?
You mentioned : "Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun"
So you pull over because (?? loss of power or??) then check the engine (where exactly) with your IR thermometer, and what Temps does that show?

Does the engine misfire at the same time as when it's "overheating"?
Does the engine misfire when it loses power (and how do you know it's misfiring: bucking, tachometer jumping, or codes??)
What engine codes have you pulled from the OBDII connector?
Does the radiator push coolant into the overflow tank?
Have you had to add coolant to the radiator/overflow tank (losing coolant)?
Do you see vigorous boiling/bubbling of the coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank?
Do you see any changes in the appearance of the engine oil or the radiator coolant since this started?
Do you see any increase in vapor out the tailpipe, any sweet smelling exhaust vapor?

Ok, I’ll do my best.. thanks for taking the time!
Did the "overheating" first start after losing one (or both?) alternator belts?

-After

And you drove it for 15 miles after losing one belt, is that when the overheating started?

-I have an 90mile drive to work once a week . I pulled over to check on things about 40 miles in one day because I had just done the distributor the day before. I cannot for the life of me remember if It needed coolant, I did suspect it was hot but nothing obvious I didn’t have a temp gun yet and thought my gauge still worked. I didn’t look at the belts . About 70miles in something seemed wrong.. it sounded like sand was hitting the car. That’s the only way I can describe it. Pulled over again (did not look at the belts ) . Because I suspected overheating, and not sure about my gauge , I bought a temp gun and a radiator cap that day and definitely remember needing to add coolant. That’s when I discovered the belt shredded around the fan. Drove it maybe 10-15 miles, and it didn’t test hot at the thermostat housing or radiator. That’s when I put new belts on and figured that’s all it was. Two days later on the way home. But about 45 minutes in. I could smell that I was overheating. (Gauge definitely not working) I popped to the hood and was smoking from the top of the exhaust (oil?) and the thermostat housing was at 230. Possibly more? I had it towed from there. I didn’t want to push it. Then I flushed the radiator and changed the heater valve. Next week on the way to work overheat steam coming from near heater valve and hissing from under throttle body. (Hence the hose we found)



Did a red light come on (top right of the instrument cluster) after you lost a belt?

• no lights ever

Are both replacement alternator belts now properly tensioned?

• currently they’re off.. I just put the pump cover gasket in and front seal. Next water pump, radiator, and fan clutch

When the engine overheats (after replacing the belts) what exactly happens, does the instrument panel temp gauge peg out at the top, in the Red?

• I only saw the gauge once, and yes it pegged out red. My friend said it wouldn’t read if there wasn’t any coolant? Idk.. it usually warms up slow like normal and stays right center all the time. Even if it’s obviously steaming hot.

You mentioned : "Only know I’m overheating when I pull over and shoot everything with my temp gun"

So you pull over because (?? loss of power or??) then check the engine (where exactly) with your IR thermometer, and what Temps does that show?

- pull over because I can usually smell it. Personally I think It feels different and sounds different (but that may be paranoia )

• I check the housing, and the radiator, then point it various places because I don’t know what to look for. I’ve had 240-260 at the thermostat a couple times, the radiator stays cooler.
• I haven’t experienced the loss of power (uphill) my friend was talking about. I wasn’t there, but I believe him. I vaguely remember 4-5 years ago in Tennessee that it was sluggish uphill but vaguely. Was a long time ago.

Does the engine misfire at the same time as when it's "overheating"?

• the only misfire I had was when the spark plug seals leaked from putting them in too far (or uneven). No miss fires since I fixed that.

Does the engine misfire when it loses power

-no

(and how do you know it's misfiring: bucking, tachometer jumping, or codes??) <—-all of that when it did (misfire)



What engine codes have you pulled from the OBDII connector?

-I have not pulled any codes lately.. will it tell me old codes?



Does the radiator push coolant into the overflow tank?

• not that I’m aware of. Pretty sure it drinks all of it.

Have you had to add coolant to the radiator/overflow tank (losing coolant)?

• yes, definitely

Do you see vigorous boiling/bubbling of the coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank?

• No

Do you see any changes in the appearance of the engine oil or the radiator coolant since this started?

• no

Do you see any increase in vapor out the tailpipe, any sweet smelling exhaust vapor?
• no strange smells

 

[Kernal]

Ok, so best as I can figure out from the scatter above is:

1) you're losing coolant
2) you heard hissing and saw steam near the heat control valve and somewhere in the middle near the Throttle Body
3) you smell "it" when "it" gets hot (the odor of hot coolant vapor I assume?)
4) you saw the temp gauge pegged to the top (once)
5) you've experienced the engine running rough or "misfiring"
6) you've replaced one leaking hose and the heat control valve?


If the battery has been connected all this time since the symptoms started the old codes, if any, should still be stored.

So you could buy a code scanner (cheapo from Wallymarts is good enough), follow the instructions and plug it into the OBD2 port.

Have you checked ALL the water hoses, large and small, for any signs of leakage?


First diagram shows the hot water/heater hose/pipe system parts:

This shows the Engine cooling system parts:

Here's a link to a previous thread about water/coolant hoses:

Thread '1996 FZJ80 Coolant & Heater Hose Part Numbers & Pictures'

Jun 21, 2018

This is subject to change, but here's what I've come up with so far(updated 7/6/2018):

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

Finished! (except for the rear seat...

• PNWFJ80
• 1996 fzj80 part numbers
• Replies: 45
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 

IMHO it might help to find a good local mechanic, preferably one with experience with this model, and have him take a look.

 

[GypseaSoul]

Ok, so best as I can figure out from the scatter above is:

1) you're losing coolant
2) you heard hissing and saw steam near the heat control valve and somewhere in the middle near the Throttle Body
3) you smell "it" when "it" gets hot (the odor of hot coolant vapor I assume?)
4) you saw the temp gauge pegged to the top (once)
5) you've experienced the engine running rough or "misfiring"
6) you've replaced one leaking hose and the heat control valve?


If the battery has been connected all this time since the symptoms started the old codes, if any, should still be stored.

So you could buy a code scanner (cheapo from Wallymarts is good enough), follow the instructions and plug it into the OBD2 port.

Have you checked ALL the water hoses, large and small, for any signs of leakage?


First diagram shows the hot water/heater hose/pipe system parts:


View attachment 4012437



This shows the Engine cooling system parts:


View attachment 4012442



Here's a link to a previous thread about water/coolant hoses:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1996-fzj80-coolant-heater-hose-part-numbers-pictures.1065801/

IMHO it might help to find a good local mechanic, preferably one with experience with this model, and have him take a look.

This is everything I’ve done. (In the past 2.5 weeks) I don’t want a mechanic spoiling my fun! I’m Kidding if I’m still over heating at this point probably wouldn’t hurt. Still haven’t drivin it yet. I’m really curious to see if I’ll get it over 40mph climbing hills, if not? What then?

 

[Kernal]

OK, so you don't know if it's still overheating because you haven't started the engine?

Some of this may be redundant but here goes:

1) when you checked compression did you check for or see any coolant in the engine cylinders?
2) did all the spark plugs look similar ie: did any of them look much cleaner than the others? (post up a photo of them if you can)
3) have you refilled the cooling system with 50-50 coolant and distilled water (or premixed coolant)?
4) have you attempted to pull the stored engine codes (or has the battery been disconnected since this all started?
5) have you changed the oil and oil filter and did the old oil look OK (I forget if you mentioned that already)

 

[GypseaSoul]

OK, so you don't know if it's still overheating because you haven't started the engine?

Some of this may be redundant but here goes:

1) when you checked compression did you check for or see any coolant in the engine cylinders?
2) did all the spark plugs look similar ie: did any of them look much cleaner than the others? (post up a photo of them if you can)
3) have you refilled the cooling system with 50-50 coolant and distilled water (or premixed coolant)?
4) have you attempted to pull the stored engine codes (or has the battery been disconnected since this all started?
5) have you changed the oil and oil filter and did the old oil look OK (I forget if you mentioned that already)

Yes to all of the above the spark plugs looked bad everything else was fine
My boyfriend/ friend whatever Is up there with it, he’s done all this. Ran a pressure test today and that’s fine. Oil looks good.

 

[Flank]

You've done a lot of repairs / maintenance on this, but there are some key indicators, IMHO... Loosing coolant- engine will always overheat when this happens if it gets low... Why are you loosing coolant? - it can only be leaking out of the engine through water hoses or heater hoses, or leaking into the engine via a head gasket leak...

Are you getting any white smoke / sweet small from exhaust?

I don't want to be an alarmist, but I just finished my Head Gasket redo, two of my symptoms (before white smoke) were running rough, hotter temps and a code for mis-fire on cylinder 6....

Throwing belts, lack of fan leads to overheat, leads to HG failure if hot enough... Fixing belts after the fact won't fix it if the HG is compromised Addressing cooling system items (rad, thermostat, fan clutch, seals in engine etc) after the fact won't help if HG.
After everything you've fixed, consider this and check the oil for water content, check for milkiness, foam light brown frothiness under the oil fill cap, perhaps send off for oil analysis. (Blackstone).