Some folks in the very hot climates opted for an electrical pusher fan to supplement the OEM fan in these types of situations. Just a thought for considerations if all else in the system is sound.
Overheated while running ac
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semlin said:
The information that I have indicates that *all* US 80-Series (FJ80 & FZJ80) came standard with the "towing package" which was the tranny cooler. (As we know, the platform hitch was an option.)
-Mike-
Can't advanced timing cause the same? Or at least an overheating cylinder head?cruiserdan said:
cruiserdan said:
Advancing timing means moving it further behind top dead centre, correct? SO the further behind it it is, the more advanced it is, whereas the further ahead it is, the more retarded it is? is that right? Nothing counterintuitive about that
80jay is there mud where you go offroad? I have found the truck stayed cooler on MOAB trails than it has since when stuck in stop and go road traffic. temps at moab were hotter than road experience so far. I have a modded temp gauge so I am not talking about overheating here, just a 5 degree temp diff. I figured road heat reflection is greater than trail heat reflection.
alia176 said:
Yeppers... between 45k-80k miles, bone stock here in 110-113 degree AZ weather, no overheating issues to speak of. Added a pusher fan to help cool down the AC and now at 107k miles, 110 degrees, AC on, 4wheeling or in stop-n-go on the blacktop, needle doesn't budge.
I think the pusher fan helps but in my 240k mile V6 4Runner, the only thing that fixed the overheating was a new (albeit bigger) radiator. Since you did that already, pusher fan may be your only choice.
WET
Vic,
was the radiator you put in a OEM or aftermarket?
You should be able to run a/c and not worry about overheating. That is not normal...
seems like you replaced everything except the water pump (LXTreme listed as possible problem)... maybe check for more mud...clogged hose...??
keep us updated, I know stuff like this sucks.
was the radiator you put in a OEM or aftermarket?
You should be able to run a/c and not worry about overheating. That is not normal...
seems like you replaced everything except the water pump (LXTreme listed as possible problem)... maybe check for more mud...clogged hose...??
keep us updated, I know stuff like this sucks.
it would be rather silly for Toy to design a system that can't idle in 100F weather with a/c on, considering that a big part of their market is in tropical or hot countries, I would think....
It sounds like you have a problem, as suggested by others replace the rad cap, it is the cheapest of the system, short of adding coolant to a low system, and look at the other options before you go and remove the trans cooler that is in the radiator. There seem to be rigs that are functioning well with 100* temps, of coarse they have top notch and in shape cooling systems.
I just got my 96' back from the shop this evening from an overheating issue on Sunday.
Coming home from my parents who are located in the Mojave desert here in Cali I had a 3.5 hr trip take me 6 hrs with 5 stops due to overheating.
Right as I left town climing a moderate hill at 65-70 with the AC on in about 103 deg weather, the AC all of a sudden went warm. I left it on till' the top of the hill to see if it would kick back in after the hill but with no luck. So after 3 hrs in the desert with the heater on, windows down in 100 deg weather we finally made it out of the desert and down Cajon pass. I thought I was going to have to leave my truck at Toyota in Ontario but the temp stayed steady in the cooler temp and as the sun set. We ended up making it up two good size hills into San Diego with NO fluctuation in temp.
Got it into the dealer Monday morning and it turned out half of the radiator was clogged, the fan clutch was not 100%, and they replaced the thrmostat since it overheated 5 times on my trip. Not sure why the radiator was clogged since I have a receipt from the previous owner that they did a system flush in Sept. Maybe they tried to go cheap with the repair and the shop suggested that they get the radiator serviced and un-clogged.
The bummer about all this is that I just had my 120K mileage check up the weekend before, where they supposibly checked over my whole vehicle while also replacing my spark plugs and diff fluids. So over the last two weekends I have dropped $1K into my three week old truck...
Just wanted to throw in my recent story since it is related to this topic.
Coming home from my parents who are located in the Mojave desert here in Cali I had a 3.5 hr trip take me 6 hrs with 5 stops due to overheating.
Right as I left town climing a moderate hill at 65-70 with the AC on in about 103 deg weather, the AC all of a sudden went warm. I left it on till' the top of the hill to see if it would kick back in after the hill but with no luck. So after 3 hrs in the desert with the heater on, windows down in 100 deg weather we finally made it out of the desert and down Cajon pass. I thought I was going to have to leave my truck at Toyota in Ontario but the temp stayed steady in the cooler temp and as the sun set. We ended up making it up two good size hills into San Diego with NO fluctuation in temp.
Got it into the dealer Monday morning and it turned out half of the radiator was clogged, the fan clutch was not 100%, and they replaced the thrmostat since it overheated 5 times on my trip. Not sure why the radiator was clogged since I have a receipt from the previous owner that they did a system flush in Sept. Maybe they tried to go cheap with the repair and the shop suggested that they get the radiator serviced and un-clogged.
The bummer about all this is that I just had my 120K mileage check up the weekend before, where they supposibly checked over my whole vehicle while also replacing my spark plugs and diff fluids. So over the last two weekends I have dropped $1K into my three week old truck...
Just wanted to throw in my recent story since it is related to this topic.
Brentbba said:
Semlin meant to say "infamous grey grit." Nobody knows for sure what causes it but the best speculation is aluminium precipitate caused by not flushing the system and replacing the coolant annually.
-B-
yup
grey grit/sludge was all the rage a couple of years back on mud and sor as the cause of h/g failures but for some reason nobody talks about it much now. 80s are prone to a build up of it in the coolant system and it clogs radiators. people would check their overflow bottle for grey grit. source is unknown but it may be tiny flakes off a slowlydisintegrating h/g, aluminum precipitate or something reacting and dropping out of the coolant itself.
Does anyone know whether synthetic atf runs cooler than dino? I am wondering if tranny fluid temp might be a factor in trucks that are running a little hot. I am due for an atf flush.
grey grit/sludge was all the rage a couple of years back on mud and sor as the cause of h/g failures but for some reason nobody talks about it much now. 80s are prone to a build up of it in the coolant system and it clogs radiators. people would check their overflow bottle for grey grit. source is unknown but it may be tiny flakes off a slowlydisintegrating h/g, aluminum precipitate or something reacting and dropping out of the coolant itself.
Does anyone know whether synthetic atf runs cooler than dino? I am wondering if tranny fluid temp might be a factor in trucks that are running a little hot. I am due for an atf flush.
JDM oil cooler and ATF cooler
Wish me luck, just purchased thru online JDM oil cooler and ATF cooler should be here in next 2 weeks
and hopefully these will drop the temps.
semlin said:
Wish me luck, just purchased thru online JDM oil cooler and ATF cooler should be here in next 2 weeks
and hopefully these will drop the temps.
cool. oil cooler is in my mind too, but I am worried about applying my bad wrenching skills to customizing the oil supply.
why is that atf cooler better than the stock one?? also, isn't that combo blocking a big of the surface of your rad?
why is that atf cooler better than the stock one?? also, isn't that combo blocking a big of the surface of your rad?
Another speculation on the grey sludge is left over casting material, Rich posted pics of the material he caught in his coolant bypass filter, it looks like casting material. The grey part being the lightest clay portion, there was also sand in there, instigator got same.
Semlin, advance is earlier in time, retard is later in time,
Timing is almost always set a few degrees before top dead center (BTDC) between the compression and power strokes, in our case stock 3° BTDC, advanced timing would be 5° BTCD, 7° BTDC, 10° BTDC etc, retarded timing would be anything less than 3° such as 2°BTDC, 1°BTDC, 0° TDC or any degree after top dead center (ATDC)
Biff, you may want to try the bubble test just to rule that out. Early small HG leakage can cause overheating, you have done the major work that can be done to the cooling system itself, ditto on the cap quick cheap and effective, is your coolant mix the recommended 50/50? More coolant than water reduces the amount of heat the coolant mix can carry,
Some in hot climates run 60/40 or 70/30 water/coolant for improved cooling, I am considering trying that but long term corrosion protection comes into question. Freeze protection is also reduced but you generally do not need protection down to deep below zero in hot climates (south east/south west)
Semlin, advance is earlier in time, retard is later in time,
Timing is almost always set a few degrees before top dead center (BTDC) between the compression and power strokes, in our case stock 3° BTDC, advanced timing would be 5° BTCD, 7° BTDC, 10° BTDC etc, retarded timing would be anything less than 3° such as 2°BTDC, 1°BTDC, 0° TDC or any degree after top dead center (ATDC)
Biff, you may want to try the bubble test just to rule that out. Early small HG leakage can cause overheating, you have done the major work that can be done to the cooling system itself, ditto on the cap quick cheap and effective, is your coolant mix the recommended 50/50? More coolant than water reduces the amount of heat the coolant mix can carry,
Some in hot climates run 60/40 or 70/30 water/coolant for improved cooling, I am considering trying that but long term corrosion protection comes into question. Freeze protection is also reduced but you generally do not need protection down to deep below zero in hot climates (south east/south west)
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Check that all of the airflow control devices are in place, the foam at the top and bottom of the radiator, the core support seals on the hood and the tin plate above the steering stabilizer. They are very important for low speed cooling, the fan causes a slight high pressure under the hood that should be expelled under the truck. If the seals are not there some of the heated under hood air will flow back to the front side of the radiator and get recycled, lowering efficiency at idle.
High density weather strip foam tape from home centers comes in a bunch of sizes and works well for sealing. Your looking to seal all holes near the radiator that would allow air to flow back through the core support. There are a couple of spots on the fan shroud that could be sealed, making more of the air that the fan moves come through the radiator.
High density weather strip foam tape from home centers comes in a bunch of sizes and works well for sealing. Your looking to seal all holes near the radiator that would allow air to flow back through the core support. There are a couple of spots on the fan shroud that could be sealed, making more of the air that the fan moves come through the radiator.
thanks for illistrating that Tools, I have been ignoring those air dams did not figure they made much of a diffrence, picturing recycling hot air I can see how they could.
several of mine need to be replaced does home improvemnt type foam hold up to the heat? I coudl use 2" aluminum tape but that would be ugly.
several of mine need to be replaced does home improvemnt type foam hold up to the heat? I coudl use 2" aluminum tape but that would be ugly.