OPOR Sliders, if you were ever on the fence about sliders it's time to get off!
- Thread starter warezdog
- Start date
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LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Ouch! 20 days before me! Yours getting powder coat?
- Thread starter
- #83
I know! I'll take a couple pics tomorrow and post them up. Glad to see people are getting in on the deal and as pleased as I was when I got my paws on them! Anyone else running an IPOR skid with these? I've seen a few threads with other sliders that had to notch out the skid plate a bit to get theirs to fit.
I'm mounting both this weekend so I thought I'd ask since I'll be flying solo and would rather notch the skid before mounting if it's an issue.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
I have no info. to say if they'll fit or not but a 4" grinder w/a cut-off wheel would be good to have on hand just in case. I plan on going w/the same skid so make sure to take pic's if they hit please.
Nope, no powder on mine. Just going to rattle can them.
How about you? I'd imagine powder might take another week or so??
They must be building a ton of these things. With any luck, full steam ahead on the 80 sliders.
Actually I started a thread but no one had an opinion on it. I haven't actually decided to enter the 80 slider market yet. There are already plenty of providers
From what I see in the slider market none of the vendors will be making much profit considering that they are selling for 3.50~4.00 a pound and raw material is over 1.50 a pound taking into consideration waste. From the pics I see OPOR is doing everyone a huge favor with this pricing. they have significant time and money in this product. I estimate he's allowing himself very little profit at that price
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
No powder for me either.
Good choice. I'm pretty excited to see these things on someone's vehicle.
Wade sent me pics that I can upload if nobody posts any in the next 24 hours or so
- Thread starter
- #90
OK here are some pics after the blitz black, with any luck I'll have them on the rig by Saturday afternoon.
Used three cans of zinc primer, could have used 4 but AA screwed me out of a can on pickup.
Shot the JD Blitz black straight out of the can with no thinner or hardener added, used the cheap HF HVLP $9.99 gun with the usual mods. Hung each one from my shop crane and buy the time I got from one side to the other I didn't have to wait much more than 5 minutes before starting the next coat. JD says to lay coats within 20 minutes or wait 30 hours.Blitz black is funny under fluorescent light but I'll up load some more phot0s in the daylight after mounting. I've lined my 80 with Al's and planned on shooting it with this in the next couple weeks weather permitting, it comes out much flatter on the liner, even more so than black primer. Rims will be last after the front axle rebuild as the outters are shot and continue to puke birf soup on them now!
Used three cans of zinc primer, could have used 4 but AA screwed me out of a can on pickup.
Shot the JD Blitz black straight out of the can with no thinner or hardener added, used the cheap HF HVLP $9.99 gun with the usual mods. Hung each one from my shop crane and buy the time I got from one side to the other I didn't have to wait much more than 5 minutes before starting the next coat. JD says to lay coats within 20 minutes or wait 30 hours.Blitz black is funny under fluorescent light but I'll up load some more phot0s in the daylight after mounting. I've lined my 80 with Al's and planned on shooting it with this in the next couple weeks weather permitting, it comes out much flatter on the liner, even more so than black primer. Rims will be last after the front axle rebuild as the outters are shot and continue to puke birf soup on them now!
Here's mine. I spent the extra $50 for rear dimple plates. With small kids I'm glad I did as a small foot could fit between the round & square tubing on the rear bump out. A word of caution - the rear brake lines run along the frame on the drivers side. No issue with the front bracket but the middle and rear bolts will crush the lines if you don't move them. I pulled the brackets off the frame and gained the clearance for the bolts. I installed by myself but would have appreciated a helper now and then as they are pretty heavy.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
These look really good, I can't wait for mine to arrive. I went with the full dimple as I was concerned my dogs paws might get caught while jumping in/out of the cruiser.
What did you use to paint the sliders with? they came out nice!
HERE'S THE PAINT I USED. TWO CANS OF PRIMER (COULD HAVE USED ANOTHER CAN) AND I THINK 4 CANS OF PAINT. IN READING OTHER POSTS, LOOK FOR A ZINC PRIMER. THEY DIDN'T HAVE IT AT MY LOCAL ACE, AND I LIVE IN THE PHOENIX AREA SO RUST IS REALLY A NON-ISSUE FOR ME.
4hours? Mine went reasonably easy. The mounts were good placement.
I had the driverside on in 40 minutes. Passenger side was about the same including running a tap through the bolt holes for the front mount.
Only grinding I had to do was a weld was a bit fat on the rear diverside lower control arm mount. Had to smooth it out so the u-bolt would sit right.
Here is how I went about it if it helps the next guy.
I set a couple jack stands under the rockers to help hold the sliders up while I got the bolts started. The rear mounts have ears that go around the rear lower control arm if you push the rocker up so that it hangs on those ears and start the front upper bolt (driver side or a top bolt passenger side) it's not too bad.
On the driver side you need to pop the clips loose for the brake lines be very careful not to kink the lines. I got a long screw driver under the clips and popped them loose. Slide both rear unbolts under the lines. You will need to push the slider away from the frame to turn the u-bolts square to the frame to get them through the holes on the sliders.
I was able to then use a knee to push the slider up and get the top nut started on both rear mounts.
.
Anybody else have the rear two mounts hitting the rocker pinch weld lips on both sides?
Other then hitting the pinch weld I'm really happy with them. Wish the body mounts were bolts and not studs. I have some 1/4 shims I would have stuck in the mounts to get those mounts off the rocker.
I had the driverside on in 40 minutes. Passenger side was about the same including running a tap through the bolt holes for the front mount.
Only grinding I had to do was a weld was a bit fat on the rear diverside lower control arm mount. Had to smooth it out so the u-bolt would sit right.
Here is how I went about it if it helps the next guy.
I set a couple jack stands under the rockers to help hold the sliders up while I got the bolts started. The rear mounts have ears that go around the rear lower control arm if you push the rocker up so that it hangs on those ears and start the front upper bolt (driver side or a top bolt passenger side) it's not too bad.
On the driver side you need to pop the clips loose for the brake lines be very careful not to kink the lines. I got a long screw driver under the clips and popped them loose. Slide both rear unbolts under the lines. You will need to push the slider away from the frame to turn the u-bolts square to the frame to get them through the holes on the sliders.
I was able to then use a knee to push the slider up and get the top nut started on both rear mounts.
.
Anybody else have the rear two mounts hitting the rocker pinch weld lips on both sides?
Other then hitting the pinch weld I'm really happy with them. Wish the body mounts were bolts and not studs. I have some 1/4 shims I would have stuck in the mounts to get those mounts off the rocker.
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Yup we were slow I guess, had a bit of issue getting both side on. They didn't just fall in place, needed a lot of wiggling and repositioning to get all the bolts line up.
What did you do with the brake lines on the driver side? I left mine as it is so the metal to metal with the bolt but they are not really moving. But I was to see what can be done, maybe I'll put some rubber between them.
Did yours come with instruction? Mine didn't so I just hand tightened them, didn't want to over torque them with out toporque spect. One of the 4 frame bolt threaded in wrong, hues I'll have to retap that one.
Was editing while you quoted. Break lines are the same as yours. PO did some hookyness with my rear heater lines I think he had a leak in a hard line and cut it back. I'm finding rust in other spots on the hard lines. I have a couple feet of hose up above the CAT (yes singular, one is missing and something else I need to straighten out eventually) and I think I'm missing a heat Sheild above the cats as well. Fan is not working on the rear heater and I'm considering just yanking it out. We didn't really miss it this year. Kid never complained at least.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I assume from the pics that they won't work with the mud flaps?
So who else has the rear legs hitting the rockers? I don't mean while trail riding. They are in contact with the rocker all the time.
After a couple hours running errands I'm realizing they are transmitting drive train and road noise to the body. Not happy about that.
After a couple hours running errands I'm realizing they are transmitting drive train and road noise to the body. Not happy about that.
