I have a mini fridge in garage. or can stash a keg at Sages.. Can also save bottles for refilling later if they are brought to my place full. i'm totally open to assist.
Ol' Blue, my 68' fj40 project
- Thread starter 2fpower
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
No that was it. And as I wrote that, I thought the same thing, that you probably don't want to rob peter......
Ex
I look forward to seeing it run some time. I've been contemplating trading the 60 for a 40. I miss a having a 40.
How do you find this stuff?????
Patience young jedi.. patience..
Patience young jedi.. patience..
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #105
stuff
quote: I look forward to seeing it run some time. I've been contemplating trading the 60 for a 40. I miss a having a 40. ex
I just saw the other day that you put a 55 tranny in there. Is that new, or am I just finally paying attention?
Your 60 is so nice, you can't trade it off.
I too would like to have one of my projects on the road.... it is annoying that my only running, driving Fj is the one without a title, so no tags.
I hope to get the 68 going first, make some mistakes on it, then get what I hope to be my main driving FJ, the 3fe going. I wish I lived in austin, as it seems there are dozens down there with the 3fe conversion, and they meet and help each other build things in the driveway when it is snowing here!! Oh well, have to keep bartering with Erik for help.
Erik-
My son, Joshua (master Jedi) is trying to teach me patience. I will try to be a better padawan.
Cheers!
quote: I look forward to seeing it run some time. I've been contemplating trading the 60 for a 40. I miss a having a 40. ex
I just saw the other day that you put a 55 tranny in there. Is that new, or am I just finally paying attention?
Your 60 is so nice, you can't trade it off.
I too would like to have one of my projects on the road.... it is annoying that my only running, driving Fj is the one without a title, so no tags.
I hope to get the 68 going first, make some mistakes on it, then get what I hope to be my main driving FJ, the 3fe going. I wish I lived in austin, as it seems there are dozens down there with the 3fe conversion, and they meet and help each other build things in the driveway when it is snowing here!! Oh well, have to keep bartering with Erik for help.
Erik-
My son, Joshua (master Jedi) is trying to teach me patience. I will try to be a better padawan.
Cheers!
Yeah the 55 has been there for a while. I want to go to a 700r4 that has been sitting in the garage for a long time. I actually started and then realized the tranny with Marlin box and split case needed clearance, due to the way that the engine is mounted. The engine has to either go down an inch or so or I have to lift the body. Nothing major, just have not tackled it.
You're right on Austin and the 3fe's. I think Erik will be just the guy you need to keep providing beer. I look forward to you rprojects getting done. You sure are doing it right.
Ex
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #107
Thanks for the compliment.
Hope to get some major work done on this one in coming months. We shall see. Tommorrow, I am going to hopefully get it flipped over and ready to POR 15 underneath. Figure I would do it, the "new" axle, the knuckles, and some other loose parts with POR 15 at the same time.
Let me know if you decide to sell the h55 after you install the 700rh.
Hope to get some major work done on this one in coming months. We shall see. Tommorrow, I am going to hopefully get it flipped over and ready to POR 15 underneath. Figure I would do it, the "new" axle, the knuckles, and some other loose parts with POR 15 at the same time.
Let me know if you decide to sell the h55 after you install the 700rh.
nice score!
"nice score! "
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #111
axle progression
Here is the axle ready for POR 15.
I ground down all the welds, and cleaned all the welding spatter that was all over the axle ends. The old felt gasket had two holes in it that were caused by two weld spatters!! I hope this was not Toyota factory.
Here is the axle ready for POR 15.
I ground down all the welds, and cleaned all the welding spatter that was all over the axle ends. The old felt gasket had two holes in it that were caused by two weld spatters!! I hope this was not Toyota factory.
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #112
So, my plan on the axle is to POR 15 it, except for the ends that the knuckle go over.
POR 15 the outside of the knuckle
POR 15 the disk brake backing dust cover
POR 15 the underside of the fenders -- later I will undercoat with Raptor
POR 15 both sides of the tunner cover -- later Raptor
POR 15 the bottom of the tub up to the vertical of firewall-- later Raptor
THEN, flip tub over, and epoxy prime the remainder of tub, top of fenders, and some assorted pieces laying around shop.
Sounds like fun????
Now to find a cool, calm day that I can prime outside. Yeah, right!!
POR 15 the outside of the knuckle
POR 15 the disk brake backing dust cover
POR 15 the underside of the fenders -- later I will undercoat with Raptor
POR 15 both sides of the tunner cover -- later Raptor
POR 15 the bottom of the tub up to the vertical of firewall-- later Raptor
THEN, flip tub over, and epoxy prime the remainder of tub, top of fenders, and some assorted pieces laying around shop.
Sounds like fun????
Now to find a cool, calm day that I can prime outside. Yeah, right!!
That's alot of POR 15, and prep work, but will look great. And honestly doesn't sound like fun, but I'll be hoping for that cold front to come through 
Has anyone ever tried Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating? I'm curious to how it holds up, and like the minimal prep work. Of course you wouldn't get that factory-new-smooth look.
Has anyone ever tried Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating? I'm curious to how it holds up, and like the minimal prep work. Of course you wouldn't get that factory-new-smooth look.
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #114
I have seen the Chassis Saver over at Overland Auto Paint. Looks nice.
When I researched which product to use, I found so many results about POR 15, and who was using it, I opted that way. Also, with our account at MSC, it is really affordable!!
I just read the fine print on the Chassis Saver....
Application Note: While Chassis Saver has incredible rust and corrosion resistance and can be used for all underbody applications without top coating, it is sensitive to UV light (sun) and its initial appearance will change over time. Its “RUST STOPPING” properties and corrosion resistance will never degrade but its color will shift from black to charcoal gray. Silver-aluminum remains very close to it’s original appearance. If aesthetics are important, Chassis Saver can and should be top coated with a quality industrial or automotive finish. Any opaque finish is effective. Clear coating is not recommended as protection. Suitable topcoats include any MAGNET Finishing System including 4800 Series Synthetic Urethane Enamels, MAGNACRYL™ 9000 Series Acrylic Enamels or MAGNATRON™ 5000 Series Acrylic Polyurethane Enamels.
POR 15 has same issue with UV, and you have to paint some parts with their Chassis Black paint that is called semi gloss, but I would call flat.
When I researched which product to use, I found so many results about POR 15, and who was using it, I opted that way. Also, with our account at MSC, it is really affordable!!
I just read the fine print on the Chassis Saver....
Application Note: While Chassis Saver has incredible rust and corrosion resistance and can be used for all underbody applications without top coating, it is sensitive to UV light (sun) and its initial appearance will change over time. Its “RUST STOPPING” properties and corrosion resistance will never degrade but its color will shift from black to charcoal gray. Silver-aluminum remains very close to it’s original appearance. If aesthetics are important, Chassis Saver can and should be top coated with a quality industrial or automotive finish. Any opaque finish is effective. Clear coating is not recommended as protection. Suitable topcoats include any MAGNET Finishing System including 4800 Series Synthetic Urethane Enamels, MAGNACRYL™ 9000 Series Acrylic Enamels or MAGNATRON™ 5000 Series Acrylic Polyurethane Enamels.
POR 15 has same issue with UV, and you have to paint some parts with their Chassis Black paint that is called semi gloss, but I would call flat.
I sprayed my millitary trailer with por.. I would use a cheap HF gun if i ever did it again. it pretty much killed the gun.
What is this "raptor" your refering to. is it an undercoating of sorts with a shutz gun?
What is this "raptor" your refering to. is it an undercoating of sorts with a shutz gun?
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #116
I have always brushed on POR. I agree it will kill a gun. I found that it self levels very well when you brush it. The only issue with a brush is the dirt, but I am not looking for new.
I found Raptor through another MUDder, and yes it is shot through a shutz gun. Black for bottom of tub , fenders, tranny hump, inside of tub and top of tranny will be tinted to color of vehicle.
I found Raptor through another MUDder, and yes it is shot through a shutz gun. Black for bottom of tub , fenders, tranny hump, inside of tub and top of tranny will be tinted to color of vehicle.
Sure.. I've been known to paint em on the truck but if you have rotor off and no lockout on it then it is the perfect time to paint it.
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #120
next up
Here is the bottom of tub.
I decided to use POR15, instead of epoxy primer, as when I did the tub on the 75 last year, I found that spraying is very difficult under the fender lips and all the places that usually rust bad. So, with POR, I was able to paint all the diffcult places really good.
I had a can of grey that I needed to use, so I used it for most of the work, then came back with black in the edges. All of it will get black undercoat soon enough. Now, I am debating if I just go ahead and undercoat, or if I flip it over, prep it and spray epoxy first. My only concern is that when I did the marine clean and metal prep for the POR process, I had to get it all wet, so there is flash rust everywhere.... I was going to scuff it off, clean it and epoxy ASAP. Any thoughts?
I also got the fenders (bottom side) primered and all the rest of the axle parts
Here is the bottom of tub.
I decided to use POR15, instead of epoxy primer, as when I did the tub on the 75 last year, I found that spraying is very difficult under the fender lips and all the places that usually rust bad. So, with POR, I was able to paint all the diffcult places really good.
I had a can of grey that I needed to use, so I used it for most of the work, then came back with black in the edges. All of it will get black undercoat soon enough. Now, I am debating if I just go ahead and undercoat, or if I flip it over, prep it and spray epoxy first. My only concern is that when I did the marine clean and metal prep for the POR process, I had to get it all wet, so there is flash rust everywhere.... I was going to scuff it off, clean it and epoxy ASAP. Any thoughts?
I also got the fenders (bottom side) primered and all the rest of the axle parts
