ntsaint's FJ40 search and build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Saint...guys with more knowledge will chiime in but:
Weber is easier to fine tune than an Aisin form what I hear (again no experience) other than my truck had a Weber. Weber is used on lots of american junk so most guys can get one purring quicker than Aisin.

Weber gives you an electric choke which is nice, but it can also stall out on extreme slopes. The Aisin you can "feather" due to the manual choke.

Again the 40 crowd will chime in but if you have a Weber in decent shape just get a rebuild kit and role.

2 weeks!!! that's awesome.
 
Shush,

That's what I'm planning on doing (getting the weber right). Was just wondering if there were any gotchas i needed to look out for.

2 weeks is pretty ambitious, but i might make it. I really want to hear the engine run before i start spending big $$ on the body.

You taking your 100 to SCC?
 
I would definitely do the Weber and if it doesn't run like you want go down that rabbit hole later on.

I dont know of/haven't read of any big problems with rebuilding Webers, (again ive never done it myself).

I want to take my 100 to SCC but I just found out yesterday I may be going to the Sand Box next year and they freaking have me working that weekend.......I may be AWOL... CLC will have a field day with me missing my 3rd consecutive SCC since being a member....:meh:
 
MEMCruiser said:
I'll sell you my aisin setup if you decide to go that route.
Click to expand...

Thanks. If the weber doesn't work out I'll probably do that. Did you ever find all the parts you needed to reinstall the Aisin and stock air cleaner?

Just ordered a rebuild kit for my Weber 38dgas.
 
ntsaint said:
Thanks. If the weber doesn't work out I'll probably do that. Did you ever find all the parts you needed to reinstall the Aisin and stock air cleaner?

Just ordered a rebuild kit for my Weber 38dgas.
Click to expand...

No. I have what shush gave me. I am sure it can be found but I'm profoundly lazy. I have carb and air cleaner and other odds and ends.
 
So Performance Distributors in Memphis just called. They got my distributor that I shipped them. Turns out its not one of theirs...it's a knock off. And the guy says its in bad shape to boot.

So much for two weeks...

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Suck....just order a new one from them and keep that deadline
 
Back on track (kind of).

New water pump showed up today, along with new fuel pump.

Carb rebuild kit will be here in time for the weekend, then off to get rebuilt.

Took the dizzy apart, it's all Gm parts. Had the electrical components tested, and they're OK. Bought new cap, rotor and coil for under $75. It's working good enough to test the engine. Will do until later when I'll replace with a Perf Distr. model.

2 week deadline is out the window...going on a 4 day golf trip in Hot Springs labor day weekend. Might try to make a dry run at Superlift while I'm up there.

photo (1).webp
 
Looks like the new one is a non-oil cooler model?? At least you don't have to worry about the plug failing.
 
First issue, right out the gate, dizzy doesn't fit.

After a little research it's an HEI, all GM parts, and the upper housing keeps it from seating all the way down. Gets stuck on the screw stud for some of the heater tubing...

At this point, anyone got any recommendations? I have parts to rebuild this one, but now thinking about other options. What is everyone here running?

IMG_0832.webp


IMG_0831.webp


IMG_0833.webp
 
Newly powdercoated valve cover, went ahead and did it in black.

I cannot find an oil filler cap ANYWHERE that fits...the opening has no threads, so evidently it's a pressure type seal. Have picked up two already, no luck. Gonna try SOR next.

IMG_0837.webp


IMG_0840.webp
 
Newly powdercoated radiator shroud and hardware...also remounted the fan. On the fence about whether or not to replace it, one of the POs spraypainted the center of it black at some point...

Also mounted up the alternator bracket and alternator, fuel pump, and oil filter pedestal.

IMG_0844.webp


IMG_0845.webp
 
Finally, I don't know if you can tell from these crappy cell pics, but the engine seems to be running 'up-hill' ??

You can really tell if you look at the gap/angle between the block and the radiator.

Is this normal?

IMG_0841.webp


IMG_0842.webp
 
If you are going to use that distributor, you need to be sure it has a Toyota gear on it. The GM gear will cause issues eventually.

I think I removed one of the side cover studs using two nuts.
 
77TLCFJ40 said:
If you are going to use that distributor, you need to be sure it has a Toyota gear on it. The GM gear will cause issues eventually.

I think I removed one of the side cover studs using two nuts.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I think I'm going to just use the OEM one to try and get it test cranked, then go forward with a new one.

wngrog said:
Oil cap just sits in there. No pressure. Just needs to be tight enough not to bounce out.
Click to expand...

The one I have must have drawn up some...very loose, wouldn't trust it.



Any thoughts on that engine angle? The more I think about it, there's nothing i can do to change it, just looks funny.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom