ntsaint's FJ40 search and build

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ntsaint said:
Thanks, I think I'm going to just use the OEM one to try and get it test cranked, then go forward with a new one.

Lash is right about the gear and also the distributor clamp is kinda a PITA to work out. I did the mod once and was not impressed.

The one I have must have drawn up some...very loose, wouldn't trust it.

SOR or CCOT

Any thoughts on that engine angle? The more I think about it, there's nothing i can do to change it, just looks funny.
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Most engines run at a slight angle. Say 5 degrees or so. It won't be a problem.
 
Soak it good with some armor all and see if it will soften up
 
Another good chunk of the list knocked out today. Got the oem distributor cleaned up and remounted.

Also mounted the radiator and attached all new hoses. Forgot to snap a pic of that. Gonna have to remove it again anyway after the rest run. Drain cock is loose and leaks.

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Also, dumb question I know, but where does the orange hose in the below pic go?

Another dumb one...follow the black hose that comes out of the block (just below and left of the orange hose) around to the other side of the block. Just above and right of where the black hose stops (on the valve cover) there is another open hose inlet. What goes there??

I have pics of most everything, but most all hoses where disconnected when I got the truck.

Thanks.

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If memory serves me the orange hose is connected to the pcv valve and the other end should run to the carb / air cleaner. Not sure what is supposed to go on the open port on the top but most pics I have seen (and what I had on my 2F when I had one) was a cone shaped filter that is hose clamped to it. You can get them from any auto part store.
 
ntsaint said:
Also, dumb question I know, but where does the orange hose in the below pic go?

Another dumb one...follow the black hose that comes out of the block (just below and left of the orange hose) around to the other side of the block. Just above and right of where the black hose stops (on the valve cover) there is another open hose inlet. What goes there??

I have pics of most everything, but most all hoses where disconnected when I got the truck.

Thanks.

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The attached end is on the nipple of your PCV valve. The orange hose reroutes blow-by gases from the crankcase back to the intake manifold. The unattached end should mate to a port on your intake manifold IIRC.

Not sure about the black hose. It may attach to the air filter housing above the carb.

Do you not have a FSM, or even a Haynes manual? I'm not home and don't have a 2F to reference so I'm just guessing. Consider the source and proceed at your own peril.
 
Sea Knight said:
The attached end is on the nipple of your PCV valve. The orange hose reroutes blow-by gases from the crankcase back to the intake manifold. The unattached end should mate to a port on your intake manifold IIRC.

Not sure about the black hose. It may attach to the air filter housing above the carb.

Do you not have a FSM, or even a Haynes manual? I'm not home and don't have a 2F to reference so I'm just guessing. Consider the source and proceed at your own peril.
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I've got an FSM, just didn't have one at the shop when I posted this. Gonna look it up and start making connections next weekend. Thanks for the fast reply!
 
I know I'm starting to reveal my ignorance on a lot of stuff here, so bear with me on these.

Factory dizzy tested out OK, so I think I'm gonna stick with that. Need a new ignition coil though...any reason this one won't work? Can't get OEM anymore.

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/coiltoyota.html
 
ntsaint said:
I know I'm starting to reveal my ignorance on a lot of stuff here, so bear with me on these.

Factory dizzy tested out OK, so I think I'm gonna stick with that. Need a new ignition coil though...any reason this one won't work? Can't get OEM anymore.

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/coiltoyota.html
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Sure it'll work. Denso is OEM. but I'd buy this one.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...r-High-Vibration-Ignition-Coils/?autoview=SKU

You can get these from Auto Zone, or any of the other generic parts stores. May take a couple of days.
 
Update on status, new oil, plugs, wires, etc this weekend.

Have the radiator off getting flushed, and fixing a leak at the drain.

Carb has been OK'd for the test crank, will get it rebuilt after.



I'm wanting to attach the manifold and header before I crank it. Manifold will be fine, it's Toyota and in good shape. Header, not so much. PLUS the fit isn't going to work, bell housing gets in the way.

Anybody here had to source new headers before? Any particular source? And do I really need it for the test crank?

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Mine came from Bob at TPI4x4.com. Been on there 12+ years with no problems. Do it right the first time and rock out! How is that going to hit the bell housing? Stock set up right?
 
Bodean said:
Mine came from Bob at TPI4x4.com. Been on there 12+ years with no problems. Do it right the first time and rock out! How is that going to hit the bell housing? Stock set up right?
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That looks exactly like the set I have...I wonder if I just didn't fit it properly.

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That's what I'm thinking. Mine are kinda close but they fit fine. We true'd the surface of the header that mounts to the head and it sealed with one gasket. Buy the gasket everyone raves about on here. Kinda pricey but it's worth it to not have to take all of that crap off again!
 
Bodean said:
That's what I'm thinking. Mine are kinda close but they fit fine. We true'd the surface of the header that mounts to the head and it sealed with one gasket. Buy the gasket everyone raves about on here. Kinda pricey but it's worth it to not have to take all of that crap off again!
Click to expand...

I already have a Remflex, that what you're talking about?

Also, how did you square up the surface? Sanding or something more drastic?

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