- Thread starter
- #21
Noise on front right when steering right (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wilsil
- Start date
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The CDL actuator (little motor that spins a gear) moves a shift fork and sleeve clutch inside the tcase to engage two gears at the same time when in the lock position. In unlock, the sleeve should clear the gears. If your CDL actuator didn't move the clutch far enough, the gears could lightly ride on the edge of the clutch under certain conditions.
This could very well NOT be the issue, but I had clicking come from my tcase after I rebuilt it and it was because of this. I didn't sync up the actuator and shift fork before install, so the gear and sleeve would clicking/grind under load in certain conditions. I could be projecting my issue on yours, but wouldn't hurt to try, if they think it's tcase related. (I'm still doubtful, if you have not had any tcase work done prior/recently.)
This could very well NOT be the issue, but I had clicking come from my tcase after I rebuilt it and it was because of this. I didn't sync up the actuator and shift fork before install, so the gear and sleeve would clicking/grind under load in certain conditions. I could be projecting my issue on yours, but wouldn't hurt to try, if they think it's tcase related. (I'm still doubtful, if you have not had any tcase work done prior/recently.)
- Thread starter
- #23
I had replaced the actuator a few years ago as the original was rusted and didn't work anymore.
- Thread starter
- #24
Just found the image, replaced 28/12/2019.
- Thread starter
- #27
A long story this time.
Finally after 3 weeks I have the report and quote from the suspension shop.
A lot of things on there
1- lower ball joints have dangerous amount of freeplay
2- lower inner uca bushes compressed and worn
3- both rack ends have play
4- upper tailing arm bushes completely torn andf seperated from crush tube
5- lower trailing arm arm bushes cracked and split
6- panhard rod bushes starting to seperate
7- rear sway bar mount bushes worn
8- front sway bar link bushes worn
9- very minor wear in upper ball joints
10- centre diff/transfer case needs urgent attention
11- front diff pinion seal leaking
12- front drive shaft uni has play
13- passenger side front wheel bearing has play
14- passenger side rear AHC hydraulic shock leaking
Some more clarification regarding the transfer case:
"The issue with the centre diff/transfer case is what is making that clicking noise and when you turn the drive shaft by hand you can feel the clunk in certain spots where it has internal damage. It may have had the centre diff locked when driving on the road."
I am planning to do all the front and rear bushes, all Toyota.
After getting a quote from my local dealer for the front bushings only, I sat down.
They want $1159 AUD for the 8 bushes.
I went online and found the following:
- Amayama $345 AUD delivered, however delivery mid-December.
- Partsouq is $534 AUD delivered, delivery time not shown but 2-3 days processing, so probably 2 weeks.
- Impex is $223.68 USD ($350 AUD rough guestimate) delivered, delivery with DHL shown as 5-8 days, so probably 2 weeks as well.
As was expected, lower ball joint is not available from the dealer without buying the complete arm.
Today I went to a local transmission shop and have the car booked in next Friday for them to have a good look at it.
Problem is that we want to go away mid-November.
I think I can do the ball joint and bushes if I get them in time.
Finally after 3 weeks I have the report and quote from the suspension shop.
A lot of things on there
1- lower ball joints have dangerous amount of freeplay
2- lower inner uca bushes compressed and worn
3- both rack ends have play
4- upper tailing arm bushes completely torn andf seperated from crush tube
5- lower trailing arm arm bushes cracked and split
6- panhard rod bushes starting to seperate
7- rear sway bar mount bushes worn
8- front sway bar link bushes worn
9- very minor wear in upper ball joints
10- centre diff/transfer case needs urgent attention
11- front diff pinion seal leaking
12- front drive shaft uni has play
13- passenger side front wheel bearing has play
14- passenger side rear AHC hydraulic shock leaking
Some more clarification regarding the transfer case:
"The issue with the centre diff/transfer case is what is making that clicking noise and when you turn the drive shaft by hand you can feel the clunk in certain spots where it has internal damage. It may have had the centre diff locked when driving on the road."
I am planning to do all the front and rear bushes, all Toyota.
After getting a quote from my local dealer for the front bushings only, I sat down.
They want $1159 AUD for the 8 bushes.
I went online and found the following:
- Amayama $345 AUD delivered, however delivery mid-December.
- Partsouq is $534 AUD delivered, delivery time not shown but 2-3 days processing, so probably 2 weeks.
- Impex is $223.68 USD ($350 AUD rough guestimate) delivered, delivery with DHL shown as 5-8 days, so probably 2 weeks as well.
As was expected, lower ball joint is not available from the dealer without buying the complete arm.
Today I went to a local transmission shop and have the car booked in next Friday for them to have a good look at it.
Problem is that we want to go away mid-November.
I think I can do the ball joint and bushes if I get them in time.
- Thread starter
- #28
Next update.
I have ordered all bushings, front and rear from Impex.
That's for the uppers and lowers in the front, uppers and lowers in the rear and panhard rod.
Excluding shipping AUD$414.00 all up.
I can buy Terrain Tamer ball joints as well as the 555's are not available or out of stock in Australia.
I have ordered all bushings, front and rear from Impex.
That's for the uppers and lowers in the front, uppers and lowers in the rear and panhard rod.
Excluding shipping AUD$414.00 all up.
I can buy Terrain Tamer ball joints as well as the 555's are not available or out of stock in Australia.
- Thread starter
- #29
Last Friday I bought and collected the lower ball joints from Terrain Tamer in Perth, WA.
I was very surprised that when I opened the box, there was a 555 ball joint in there.
I was very surprised that when I opened the box, there was a 555 ball joint in there.
- Thread starter
- #30
Got a notification from Ipex, some parts are delivered at a later date.
Luckily the bushings are not the important bit what needs to be done immediately.
Luckily the bushings are not the important bit what needs to be done immediately.
- Thread starter
- #31
Last weekend was toolingday.
I took out both CVs, removed boith lower ball joints, installed both new lower ball joints and installed the right CV on the left and the left on the right.
Only tighten the tie end rod and I can test.
I took out both CVs, removed boith lower ball joints, installed both new lower ball joints and installed the right CV on the left and the left on the right.
Only tighten the tie end rod and I can test.
- Thread starter
- #32
I took the car to another mechanic, trusted by a good friend.
His verdict is the transfer case.
Car is booked in for the 9th November at a shop specialised in gearboxes and transmissions.
His verdict is the transfer case.
Car is booked in for the 9th November at a shop specialised in gearboxes and transmissions.
- Thread starter
- #33
Wish me luck, car is at the transmission shop.
- Thread starter
- #34
Just got a call from the shop.
After lots of testing and head scratching, they focussed on the front diff.
After opening up they found bolts holding the crown wheel and the diff locker were loose.
The threads seems to look ok and they will see what happens if they torque them up.
They will also replace the bushing which is cracked, replace the bearings and seals, and test the yoke as there is some play.
After lots of testing and head scratching, they focussed on the front diff.
After opening up they found bolts holding the crown wheel and the diff locker were loose.
The threads seems to look ok and they will see what happens if they torque them up.
They will also replace the bushing which is cracked, replace the bearings and seals, and test the yoke as there is some play.
I have a similar problem. It is definitely on the right side. If I turn sharply I will hear a clunking sound to the point that the wheel wants to lock up and bind. If I back up and make a 3 point turn or a wider turn I am usually ok. I think it might be a wheel bearing. What is everyones thoughts? Wheel bearing or CV Joint?
Sounds like a cv axle.
my mechanic seems to think its the upper control arm. I'm considering replacing all the suspension parts up front and the cv axles as well as the wheel bearings. The old girl has 200k and I doubt anything has ever been changed. I got her at 130k and did a air to strut conversion immediately but nothing else and this is the first problem since.
- Thread starter
- #38
Waiting on parts..........
- Thread starter
- #40
See post #34 above
