Just running down the list of possibles.
No Start help please.
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Yes, the check engine light is always there.
But…it’s also always there because I have a cat issue. It’s been on for years.
Here’s a clip of what it’s doing.
Doesn't seem like a starter issue to me (could be wrong though). If you put it in reverse do your backup lights come on?
Have you checked the starter relay? Might be able to swap it with the horn or heater blower relay to check.
You probably already check but what about this 20 amp fuse EFI?
When testing battery with multimeter. Get read from battery post. Then check from pos clamp and a ground. You should get the same voltage. If not, you've voltage be inhibit.
Voltage same, when test at any point. Then this start no start does sound like bad starter.
When I install a reman starter. I re seat contacts. 8 of 10 contract aren't pressed in as they should be. This result in early start contact failure
A test that if start contact are failing, works 80 % of time:
Voltage same, when test at any point. Then this start no start does sound like bad starter.
When I install a reman starter. I re seat contacts. 8 of 10 contract aren't pressed in as they should be. This result in early start contact failure
A test that if start contact are failing, works 80 % of time:
Take the chrome bar from tool kit. Use it to tap on starters body (steel parts. Warning don't tap hard on plastic parts, as you may break). This vibrates the contacts, often enough to move a contact washer(s) to better position so that they then make contact.
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Got the battery charged up at AutoZone. The paperwork said good battery, state of charge 97%. I asked the guy if he needed more time to get to 100% and he said “no, that number is the max the battery will charge to.” Gemini AI says otherwise
Got home and tested it. Read 12.5
Tried to start the truck, still did not start. I put my jump box on it to try to give it a little extra juice…nothing
However, it did read 12.6 for a bit.
Tried staring a few times these last 20mins…nothing.
@2001LC
Tested from pos terminal to ground and pos clamp to ground. Same reading.
When you say “Take the chrome bar from tool kit. Use it to tap on starters body (steel parts.”
Do you mean the lug wrench? And Is there a clear path to the starter without taking the engine apart? Any chance you have a picture that can guide me?
Thanks in advance.
Lug wrench or chrome bar use to remove wheel center cap. Any long slender steel bar works.Got the battery charged up at AutoZone. The paperwork said good battery, state of charge 97%. I asked the guy if he needed more time to get to 100% and he said “no, that number is the max the battery will charge to.” Gemini AI says otherwise
Got home and tested it. Read 12.5
Tried to start the truck, still did not start. I put my jump box on it to try to give it a little extra juice…nothing
However, it did read 12.6 for a bit.
Tried staring a few times these last 20mins…nothing.
@2001LC
Tested from pos terminal to ground and pos clamp to ground. Same reading.
When you say “Take the chrome bar from tool kit. Use it to tap on starters body (steel parts.”
Do you mean the lug wrench? And Is there a clear path to the starter without taking the engine apart? Any chance you have a picture that can guide me?
Thanks in advance.
With engine cover off. Use a flashlight, look between intake manifold plumes on passage side (PS) between cylinders 6 & 8 (last two). You can see the starters main body. PS side is safest, since plastic housing magnetic switch (contacts & plunger) and wires are on DS. DS can be tapped on, and is more direct to where contact washer are. But one needs to be much more careful on DS.
I initially came here thinking it was your EFI which is a semi common issue, but doesn't seem that it is that.
You could check ground continuity if you have the ability, but I think I would start with replacing all your grounds with fresh wires. Its relatively cheap and easy. A few threads on here about it.
Honestly if it's not that I think it's your wires for your starter or the starter itself (unlikely but).
You mentioned you had low battery voltage in a post. How long was the battery sitting?
You could check ground continuity if you have the ability, but I think I would start with replacing all your grounds with fresh wires. Its relatively cheap and easy. A few threads on here about it.
Honestly if it's not that I think it's your wires for your starter or the starter itself (unlikely but).
You mentioned you had low battery voltage in a post. How long was the battery sitting?
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@TwistedCon I tested the ground continuity and it beeped for me. The battery wasn’t sitting very long. I’m wondering if there’s something slowly draining the battery. It was 12.42v 3 hours ago. Now it’s 12.38. I’m gonna test it again in the morning.
Yeah, I love to swap all the grounds, but I’d definitely need some guidance.
It is probably two issues. But potentially not...
I have no idea what the start sequence is on the 100 from an electrical perspective, but if you had any water get in from bad sunroof drains, a bad windshield, or bad passenger door seal you could have messed up the fuse box on the passenger side or the amp ( I have an LX so ML amp under passenger seat). Those are pretty common things that can cause a parasitic draw.
Also, have you checked your fusible link and made sure everything looks good in there? Pretty sure a bad one of those can power your inside lights, but not power the starter. A bad jump could have killed it.
Hello probably wrong place to ask but I need a new starter for 1984 fj40 inline 6 4.2l turn key and not a click tap starter and fired right up. What do you all recommend I read fj60 starters are a good up grade? Thank you in advance
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- #36
@TwistedCon
I did have an issue last year with the drain holes being clogged. I’ll check the passenger side fuse box tomorrow.
I know where the fusible link is, but I’m not sure how to check it. Can you give me some guidance?
Fwiw, I was having a similar problem. I checked the fuel line by pulling up the green tab expecting lots of gas to spill out, it was empty.. So I swapped the 20A EFI fuse with the 20A radio fuse and let the pump prime the lines and boom it started. Fuses looked good to me I'm not sure why it was that but going to buy some littelfuses to replace it with. Saw that weak fuses can cause this issue so maybe try a new fuse totally? Now gotta deal with my CEL and VSC lights that appeared during this little episode 
Best bet is to open it up. It is not that difficult but its that tough plastic so a bit annoying.
This thread LX470 Fusible Link Box and Wiring - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx470-fusible-link-box-and-wiring.1201776/ Has some great photos that might be able to help.
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