No spark; new igniter, coil & distributor

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Schleiff said:
Even bought new ECU from Toyota
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What was the damage on that? Just curious.

Are you sure the CEL bulb is good? What conditions (besides power) are required for the ECU to indicate ready? I want to say if it's not getting certain signals it will not illuminate the lamp. What caused you to replace the coil, igniter and distributor? Just PM or were there other issues you were trying to fix?
 
I basically followed the Toyota manual that mentioned three potential issues with spark as coil, igniter and distributor. Considering all were 26 years old seemed a good idea to start there. Didn't work. So I started tracking electrical and checked fusible links. Good there. Follow sdsysdesign.com flow attached previously. EFI checked out according to that. Flow there basically stopped at ECU/wiring problem. Bought new ECU and still no good. So wondering what wiring do I as there is about 100 at the ECU. Also, assume it's just the light bulb at CEL. Still not sure where to go from here??
 
Schleiff said:
No real logic. Fusible links checked out fine.
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That happens sometimes, replace anyway. I may have overlooked it, but you did replace the EFI relay, correct? Not just the fuse.
 
I just went through this. CEL was down. Wires appeared to be good at the fusible link. Did not check voltage however. Due to their age I ordered the links, cleaned connections, new terminals, and fired up. Good to go.
 
pengfinn said:
That happens sometimes, replace anyway. I may have overlooked it, but you did replace the EFI relay, correct? Not just the fuse.
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If the fusible link provides the correct power to the fuse box I'm not sure of any benefit of changing it.

On the EFI relay, fuel pump turns on, have fuel with pressure at the cold start injector and +12VDC at the B+ connector (test from the system test provided in earlier post) so those seem to say the EFI system is good.

Still no spark.
 
Correct power or correct voltage? If the wires are not up to snuff you might have a voltage sag when the ECU tries to boot.
 
Was the CEL working before? Could it be a bad bulb leading you down the wrong diagnostic path?
Have you tried pulling any codes to see if the CEL flashes?
I'm starting to wonder about the replaced parts being good. Just a few thoughts...
 
Bulb is good. Ground W on ECU to body (test in manual) and the CEL comes on. Says to check E1 to body ground. E1 wire is in a harness with 100 others taped and covered in plastic sleeve. Guess I need to find where it is grounded to the body. Book says it's in the air intake compartment. Looked there but it's not in that spot.
 
Well thats good news. Sort of. Hey, Im in a similar boat as of yesterday. I cant get a charge to my battery. So it will be studying all day to come home and find what I learned didnt work while drinking an 18'er of Busch Light. Good times.
 
Can we start from the beginning?
Your original post says you have no spark and then you replaced a bunch of parts.
What happened before the no-spark? Were you just motoring along and she shut down, or were you under the hood tinkering and then had the no-spark?
 
not to inject chaos into your trouble shooting... but a while ago I moved my igniter, as part of removing the ABS pump and installing an ARB compressor. In the middle of unbolting and sliding things around, I tried to start the truck and it would crank but wouldn't start. I bolted the ignitor back to body and the truck started. Moral of the story, for whatever reason, I believe that case of the ignitor needs to grounded to the body in order to work properly. that's my two cents. best of luck
 
My igniter has a thick ground wire that goes right to the engine block, but the truck runs great without it so I agree that it has a secondary ground source.
 
Recently had a very similar issue with a newly purchased and at the time, non running 93 1FZ FE.
Eventually after getting her home we got her to start but run very, very rich. Not really knowing what I was doing, I was tinkering around with the Air Flow Meter, disconnected the plug and then the screws holding the connection housing to the alloy case. Tried removing said housing but couldn't (I now know why).
Put it all back togrther, tried to start and it fired but then died straight away. After about a week of doing all the normal checks, fuses relays igniter etc etc., and still no closer to the no start solution, I came across another used AFM which I wanted to replace anyway because I felt it was the cause of the original issue.
After replacing AFM and nothing else, she fired straight away and now she's running perfectly.
 
jonheld said:
Can we start from the beginning?
Your original post says you have no spark and then you replaced a bunch of parts.
What happened before the no-spark? Were you just motoring along and she shut down, or were you under the hood tinkering and then had the no-spark?
Click to expand...
Jon hi I’m a new member with a 91 having this same issue. It turns but won’t start. The CEL was working with key in on position but stopped working as I tinkered with stuff. I am not a mechanic but brought it back to one who is chasing down this problem. He said it has no spark and thinks it’s the distributor which he is replacing tomorrow but I am worried it’s something more due to reading these posts and the CEL not working anymore. I’m starting to think it’s my ecu. I guess my real question is that pdf everyone is saying to look at and print will not pull up for me. It’s a bad link. I would like to send that to my mechanic. I’m kinda stranded in Boone NC right now and any help is appreciated. I’m trying to get this new truck back home to Carolina beach NC. Thanks in advance.
 
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