Newbie questions

[ecameron87]

Hey everyone,
I am new to this forum, toyotas, and landcruisers. I have always been a chevy guy, but have always wanted a landcruiser. Now I finally bought one. It will be replacing my 1972 K5 Blazer. The LandCruiser is a 1997 40th anniversary with OEM lockers. It is the stock version and same color of DesertDude's. My plans are a 4-6" Slee lift with narrow 33"-35" tires. This has to be my daily driver as I will be using this for work purposes. I am going to keep the weight down for now so no bull bumpers and rear tire carriers for a while.

On with the questions (I have searched for most of these):

1) How do the 35" (315/75) tires work with stock axle gearing? Will I still be able to cruise at 75mph on the highway?

2) Will a 6" lift compared to a 4" lift make a difference in highway cruising as well?

3) Will I get away with the stock front driveshaft with these lifts? I see that some do and some don't

4) I am trying to do this the cheapest way without sacrificing safety. Can I order parts of a lift kit that will work good enough for now and then upgrade the rest later? If so, how do I go about doing this or what would I first need?

5) There is an Aux light switch next to the dash dimmer switch. What is this for? It doesn't seem to do anything and I don't have any aux lights that i can tell.

So far I love this truck. You guys think that they are big for the trail, but this will be a downsize for me. Thanks for all the great info on this sight.

 

[Hants]

First off: WELCOME

You'll want to send some time (many hours) browsing the FAQ and links therein. Tons of valuable information there. There are good sections on most cost effective modifications, initial modifications, lift & tire combinations, among others.

In answer to your specific questions:

1) 33" (285/75R16 or 305/70R16) is about the biggest you'd want to go with stock gearing (assuming you don't have forced induction). 33's at altitude is sketchy with stock gearing.

2) Higher lift means quite a bit more modifications (-) and supports larger tires (+) and more clearance (+). It will also lead to more wind resistance (mileage, top speed impacts).

3) My recommendation: Buy a kit (Slee makes great ones for 4 & 6 inches; OME makes great ones for 2.5" and stock height). Many who have done piecemeal lifts have had mucho problemas, including difficult to resolve vibrations -- this includes members who "know what they're doing". Rough guideline: OME 2.5 or stock height require no DS changes; anything greater gets into the DS/UJoint zone.

4) My recommendation: Get the OME 2.5" Medium or Heavy (see FAQ for deciding factors) and 33" tires. These are easy to install yourself or with a friend. Strongly recommended: Transfer Case skidplate & sliders. Then wheel it a while. You'll be amazed at where you can go (in comfort & style!). Going to ~4" and 35's is next: Quite jump in cost and complication, and *may* not be necessary.

5) Doesn't sound OEM. Perhaps a PO had aux lights installed that have subsequently been removed?

80's are phenominal offroad vehicles (even stock). Get out and get it dirty!

 

[cruiser88]

salute first to say you will not be sorry converting to lc.dont let your freinds make fun of ya .anyway before you buy anything study,study,study.buy a manual if you have not already

 

[Romer]

A lot depends on where you wheel and where you live. You could post it here or put it in your profile so it shows up.

 

[fzj80kidpen]

Welcome ;p

 

[ecameron87]

A lot depends on where you wheel and where you live. You could post it here or put it in your profile so it shows up.

Quite right,

I live in Tucson, AZ and have been off-roading for over 10 years now. I have owned (2) '72 K5 Blazers, a Samurai, and a 67 chevy shortbed. All were very capable offroad vehicles. The samurai was too small and underpowered and the Blazers were too wide, loud, and hot with no A/C (I did like the wheelbase.) The LC should be just right.

I like to wheel the knarliest trails that I can that don't have the guarantee of body damage. 35" tires are usually necessary for these trails because of the ground clearance needed, but I don't think I can afford to do the 4.88 gears. I learned about the capabilities of a LC when on my last trip I was partially pulled out of a pond by one.

I have been researching the forum for a few weeks now and have already learned a lot. I am just getting a lot of mixed results on these questions. Thanks for the replies.

 

[LandCrusher'70]

You'll want to send some time (many hours) browsing the FAQ and links therein. Tons of valuable information there. There are good sections on most cost effective modifications, initial modifications, lift & tire combinations, among others.

The FAQ section is a killer place to hang out. You'll learn quite a bit browsing the (never ending) links.

Just do it!

 

[Beowulf]

35" tires are usually necessary for these trails because of the ground clearance needed

I like Hants' answers to your questions and his recommendations.

35's get you to another level of expenses on the 80-Series.

To do it right you'll want:
* at least 4.56 gears; most recommend 4.88.
* at least 4" lift; most recommend 6" (Kit=springs, shocks, panhards, control arms, brake lines, etc., etc.)
* Speedo & odometer adjustment; many use the Truspeed ( $$$) to allow for 2 different tyre sizes
* 35" spare won't fit in stock location. Best alternative is a rear bumper followed by keeping it in the cargo area, followed by keeping it on the roof.

33's will work OK with stock gearing, mild lift (springs & shocks), inexpensive xfer-case gear for speedo and spare tyre fits in stock location.

-B-

 

[landtank]

With out the weight of front and rear bumpers I'd go with the non J ome heavy lift. Possible 850Js up front to level it out. Stick with 285s for now and caster correction bushings.

Going higher and taller will only increase the cost exponentially. It gets deep fast.

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Going higher and taller will only increase the cost exponentially. It gets deep fast.

Just research the cost difference between an OME 2.5" lift kit and a 4" lift kit. You'll see the light. (or dark, depending on how you look at it)

 

[Bluetribal]

Stick with 285s for now and caster correction bushings.

So do you need bushings if you put 285's at stock height? I plan on getting my BFG MT's before the end of the year and "Frankie's" lift next year.

 

[NorCalDoug]

Welcome aboard

My opinion…without having read what others have said…

1) I have 315/75R16 Goodyear MTRs ~ 35” tires. Cruising at 75 on the freeway is no problem at all. In fact, with stock gearing, your engine RPMs will be lower than cruising at the same speed with OEM size tires. You will not have much in the acceleration department. You’ll have to learn to live with the fact that you won’t easily pass a long string of cars on an uphill grade…if you can live with it, then you’ll be fine.

2) Since you’ll be sitting taller with a 6” lift, you’ll have more drag, so you’d experience a slight decrease in fuel economy. I haven’t driven a 6” lifted rig on the highway, but from what I’ve been told, the slee springs (both 6” and 4”) provide excellent handling.

3) Driveshafts seem to be a hit or miss thing. If you’re going to do it, I’d suggest that you do it right and get the new shafts. If it’s one thing I hate to do, it’s spending countless hours trying to track down a source of vibration…get the right stuff, install the right stuff, then make any tweaks you might need.

4) What are you planning on doing? I have a 2.5 OME lift currently. Yeah…I’m saving up (still) for the 6” kit from slee, but my “lowrider” has tackled everything I’ve attempted. The least expensive route, if you want to include safety into the mix, would be to go with an OME 2.5 or 3” lift, then move up to the 4” or 6” when you’re ready. You’ll find plenty of people willing to buy your springs and shocks for ½ the original price – you’ll be out $350, but in the scheme of things…it’s not that big of a hit. Especially when you figure that you’ll have at least $4k into the rig once you’re done with front/rear bumpers, sliders, new tires, lift, etc. etc. etc…

5) Aux light switch? What aux light switch? I think you have a left over switch from the previous owner…you’re not the original owner, are you?


Too big for the trail? Who said that?




Hopefully my opinions don’t contradict with what others have posted…I guess I’ll find out in a minute ;p

 

[NorCalDoug]

So do you need bushings if you put 285's at stock height? I plan on getting my BFG MT's before the end of the year and "Frankie's" lift next year.

no, you only need bushings if you change the springs (or add tall enough spacers).

it's dependent on the suspension height of the rig.

 

[ecameron87]

Welcome aboard

My opinion…without having read what others have said…

1) I have 315/75R16 Goodyear MTRs ~ 35” tires. Cruising at 75 on the freeway is no problem at all. In fact, with stock gearing, your engine RPMs will be lower than cruising at the same speed with OEM size tires. You will not have much in the acceleration department. You’ll have to learn to live with the fact that you won’t easily pass a long string of cars on an uphill grade…if you can live with it, then you’ll be fine.

2) Since you’ll be sitting taller with a 6” lift, you’ll have more drag, so you’d experience a slight decrease in fuel economy. I haven’t driven a 6” lifted rig on the highway, but from what I’ve been told, the slee springs (both 6” and 4”) provide excellent handling.

3) Driveshafts seem to be a hit or miss thing. If you’re going to do it, I’d suggest that you do it right and get the new shafts. If it’s one thing I hate to do, it’s spending countless hours trying to track down a source of vibration…get the right stuff, install the right stuff, then make any tweaks you might need.

4) What are you planning on doing? I have a 2.5 OME lift currently. Yeah…I’m saving up (still) for the 6” kit from slee, but my “lowrider” has tackled everything I’ve attempted. The least expensive route, if you want to include safety into the mix, would be to go with an OME 2.5 or 3” lift, then move up to the 4” or 6” when you’re ready. You’ll find plenty of people willing to buy your springs and shocks for ½ the original price – you’ll be out $350, but in the scheme of things…it’s not that big of a hit. Especially when you figure that you’ll have at least $4k into the rig once you’re done with front/rear bumpers, sliders, new tires, lift, etc. etc. etc…

5) Aux light switch? What aux light switch? I think you have a left over switch from the previous owner…you’re not the original owner, are you?


Too big for the trail? Who said that?




Hopefully my opinions don’t contradict with what others have posted…I guess I’ll find out in a minute ;p

I thought that I read somewhere where it was said that the FJ-80 was big for the trail, not too big for the trail. I thought that it was this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=105595

But I am not seeing it now. My brain hurts from all of the reading and researching. I keep going back and forth from 4" - 6" lift and the 33"-35" tires. Either way I am going with one of these combos. I just wish that someone made a good 35" tire that was in the 10" wide range. I am leaning towards the 4" lift and 255/85 TRXUS MT tire. This would give me a true 33" tire (I have a set of 35x12.50 R15s on my blazer that measures 33.5" tall)

A few more questions:

6) Is there anywhere that I can buy a CV joint for the front axle instead of buying the new one from Slee? Would this be a cheaper route?

7) How hard is the ride on a 4-6" slee lift without the extra weight of bumpers/sliders?

This will be a daily driver on about 30 miles a day. Once a month I will take a cruise up to Phoenix/Mesa for work meetings. This is a 250 mile round trip. I like to go off-roading at least once a month, but this summer I went out only twice due to it being so hot and not having A/C in my previous vehicle.

 

[Romer]

Slee offers a lot of help and advice on this forum and asks nothing in return. His customer service is top notch and he or Ben will answer questions on the phone with you and guide you through a decision. He will stand behind a product he sells you and help you fix it if it is not working right.

Based on what you have said, I don't see anything that requires the 4" or 6" lift. 285's and Js will give you a 3 to 3.5" lift.

 

[-Spike-]

The ride on a 6" Slee lift is a 4x4 ride. Appropriate. I don't find it harsh, but there's no mush about it.

-Spike

 

[NorCalDoug]

tell us more about the types of trails you run...specifically which trails?
where are these trails (location)?

 

[desertdude]

yeah what they said I would head right for the Slee 4" kit and control arms wait on the frt DC DS and see if you need it

You can see what the 80 sill look like before you load it down HERE it has the ARB on the frt but no winch yet

 

[bbm715]

Wow, thats scary! I origionally went from this ('71 Blazer CST):

to this (yes, with the damage multiplier) '91 LC:

But it was too nice for me (and the 4.0 too wimpy).
So I went back to these ('81 Zuke SJ410 & '72 Blazer CST):

Finally got tired of too big, too loud, and really crappy mpg (my LX450's 13.5mpg is about double what the Blazer got). So I stepped up and went with this ('97 117k lockers & panties - aka dead stock):

Plans include a non-winch ARB, 2.5" lift, and the 35" MT/R's that I have left over from the first Blazer.

Just strange to have annother noob like me comming over from a '72 Blazer.

Thanks for the great site!!

Ron

 

[ecameron87]

tell us more about the types of trails you run...specifically which trails?
where are these trails (location)?

I like to run all the trails in the Florence Junction area in Arizona which includes Martinez Mine, Cochrane Coke Ovens, Lower Ajax, Upper Woodpecker, etc.

More local trails closer to Tucson I like are Charouleau Gap, Copper Creek, Gunsight Pass, Chimney Rock, and Chivo Falls.

These are the closer trails that I have been on. There are many others that I would like to try, but the further you go in the Blazer, the less comfortable and the more costly it gets.