New FAQ topic - Radio Install Aftermarket and others (3 Viewers)

[Bobster]

I'm still confused as I can be. I've poured thru thread after thread......video after video and hope somebody can set the record straight. Without adding any twists or unique variables.

I have a 91 fj80 and behind my head unit there are 3 connectors (all white) I have a scochee 4 plug connector I purchased at Wal-Mart with my pioneer head unit that I have spliced color for color to my head unit adapter making sure I had a constant wired to the battery. I also made sure that no blue antenna wire is connected. Lastly I grounded the black neg wore to the large bolt straight behind the head unit.
I've completely removed the stock amp and currently have NO WIRES plugged into the 3 connectors that used to be plugged in to the amp.

When I turn the unit on. I get stations, and it appears the unit is playing songs from my usb and cd player get no music comes out of the speaker.

Am I supposed to splice jumpers wire for wire between my scochee head unit adapter and the amplifier connectors?

No pun towards the members or team here on the site but this has been the most disorganized install I've ever attempted. I've driven around with a new pioneer unit rolling around on the floor getting gettingthrown back & forth between the front and back seats as people get on and out and I'm so frustrated at this point from reading countless threads and not getting a concrete answer that I'm about to throw this stereo away and just use my cell phone and a B/t speaker.

Sorry for the attitude if it seems like I'm pissed. I'm not.....I'm just drowning in testosterone.

 

[GDA62/100]

My 91 only had an amplifier for the subwoofer. I used a Pioneer head unit and two Pioneer amps, a four channel for the dash and rear door speakers and a two channel (bridged output) for the sub. I used the RCA outs. But, if yours had a factory amplifier for the front speakers, you should bypass that and make sure you send the speaker outputs directly to the speakers as well as the sub. You may only be sending your speaker outputs to dead ends. If you didn't replace the factory speakers, do it. They were junk when they were new and have probably deteriorated to totally useless by now.

 

[Bobster]

So run new speaker wire from the head unit to the speakers in the door? Which btw are aftermarket.

Thanks, bobster

 

[GDA62/100]

So run new speaker wire from the head unit to the speakers in the door? Which btw are aftermarket.

Thanks, bobster

Regardless of how it was originally configured or treated by previous owners, that'll make it work (assuming everything is functional).
Keep the wiring tidy, make secure connections, don't let it chafe anywhere, and enjoy!

 

[Bobster]

Will do. Was hoping I didn't have to run new speaker wires to each door but I guess ill have to. Thanks

 

[brettwilm]

Year of truck: 1994 FZJ80 with original "delux" (i.e., LX450 equivalent?) system (2 din head unit (HU) with CD and cassette, 9 speakers: 2xdash, 2x front doors, 2x rear doors, 2x 3rd row tweeters, 3rd row amp/subwoofer)

Condition of existing system (my addition): CD player wouldn't play. Both front door speakers buzzing/shot. Otherwise acceptable for listening to radio and cassettes.

Radio installed: Pioneer DEH-S6220BS

Removed factory Amp yes/no - why if no: NO--DID NOT REMOVE OR DISCONNECT/BYPASS. I wanted to stay as stock as possible and continue using all speakers.

Cable harness - Metra 70-8112

work with existing speakers - even if you upgraded speakers: YES. I only replaced the front door speakers--with same diameter but deeper Pioneers (see install notes). All other speakers--4" dashes, 3rd row tweeters, are in-play.

If you have an LX450 - work with stock sub woofer: My FZJ80 has the LX450 setup. YES new install works with stock sub woofer.

Ease of install and steps. e.g., use factory bracket, connected to cable behind radio or removed amp and wired to those connectors, etc: job (I have no stereo installation experience).

First (previous weekend) I replaced those front door speakers with new Pioneer 5 1/4" TS-G520s. They are too deep because the cones face into the truck (this is good) instead of into the door. Only modding I had to do was add 5/8" spacers (I had some unused 3/8" i.d. radiator hose I hand-cut) and longer screws (I used 1/4 in x 1-1/4 in hex-head lag screws from Ace). This setup was solid and allowed the magnets to clear the window rails. I considered but discarded the black mesh cover glued to the old speakers. I retained the original grey door lining speaker covers, and there is no rubbing/vibration. Because of the spacers, the two door lining attachment snaps immediately adjacent to the speaker will not close. This is unnoticeable unless you are really looking for it.

This past weekend I went out to the truck and pulled the OEM head unit--hardest part was disconnecting all the dash panel switches to remove the panel--and scavenged the mounting brackets and attachment bolts.

I returned to my work bench and removed the optional sleeve and trim ring from the new HU and used 4 enclosed pan head ISO-mount screws (M5 x 8mm) to attach H.U. to the original OEM mounting brackets. To fill the lower DIN, I installed Metra 88-00-9000 Universal Din or ISO Pocket with enclosed face plate #2 and #2 brackets. I attached this Metra Din Pocket to the OEM Brackets, below the HU, using the enclosed 4 #8 x 1/4" Phillips screws.

Then (still on workbench) I started on connections. I plugged the wiring harness that came with the Pioneer HU into the back of the radio. I plugged the Metra harness RCA cables into the appropriate RCA jacks in the back of the radio. Then using 22-14 AWG wire nuts (non-optimal but suitably low-tech for me), I connected the yellow (12 volt batter power), red (12 volt accessory), black (ground), and blue/white (amp turn-on) wires from the HU harness to the Metra harness. All other wires I taped together out-of-the-way.

Then I took the new radio with harnesses out to the truck. The white plug from the Metra harness plugged into the white plug in the truck's harness (I didn't use/need the two grey harness plugs--they weren't used in my original stereo system either). I also plugged in the trucks antenna plug and the radio's microphone connector into the back of the new HU and routed that in the dash to the steering wheel.

I had to re-arrange some in-dash cables to make room, and I've somehow screwed up the ash tray--I need to fix that. BUT with the radio setup for "standard" (vice "networked") speaker configuration, ALL 8 speakers plus the original subwoofer are active .

How's it sound? After spending a little time with the receiver setup, including fading slightly towards the rear (otherwise front door speakers are overpowering) and setting EQ for "Dynamic", the system sounds very, very good to me. I won't be winning any competitions or hosting any raves in the mall parking lot, but...I'm really happy. NO "buzzing" or other issues from using the factory amp.

If single din, what did you put in the empty space: Metra 88-00-9000 Universal Din or ISO Pocket

Pic of finished product

After thoughts, what would you do different, go for one with aux input? MP3 capability? other? Too soon to tell.

 

[wxm]

Has anyone tried Atoto F7? It comes with pretty rich function with a reasonable price. I am pretty happy with the stock HU, but modern sd card, CarPlay etc seem to be more appealing. I might even go with the back up camera. My preference for HU upgrade is to keep close to stock as possible (including all speakers, amp and sub).

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Have not seen this mentioned anywhere, but the early 100 series radio (1998 & 1999) fits perfect into a late 80 series.

Plug and play. No cutting or wiring changes needed. Just use the late 80 radio brackets on the 100 series radio. Bolts right up.

 

[wxm]

Has anyone tried Atoto F7? It comes with pretty rich function with a reasonable price. I am pretty happy with the stock HU, but modern sd card, CarPlay etc seem to be more appealing. I might even go with the back up camera. My preference for HU upgrade is to keep close to stock as possible (including all speakers, amp and sub).

Report back on the Atoto F7. I have installed 7" it in my LX for more than a year now. The stock HU worked fine, I specially like the CD changer, but there is no comparison with the modern carplay and hand free mic. I have since brought a backup camera, but have not yet get back in to hook it up.

I went with the RCA to the factory amp. There is a pop every time I turn off the engine and so far I was not able to get rid of it. Also I tried with and without the ground loop isolators at RCA, but could not tell much difference. I left it them in the end. There is a slight pulse audible when the engine is off. But I don't think it was due to the grounding. Instead, I suspect it came from the unclean or weak power line to the head unit. Regardless, the noise is not really obvious when the engine is on. I don't really consider a big deal.