New engine Sniper, and everything else. Need help first time start (1 Viewer)

BIG RENO AL

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Hello fellow mudders!
I'm trying to start a rebuilt engine for the first time and I sure could use some help.
Let me tell you what I have going on. Please pardon the length but there is alot to cover.
1972 FJ40. original F engine. In SEP of 19 it threw a rod and I had to have it towed home 100 miles.
I had a 1976 2F engine in the garage I was planning on rebuilding myself as a fun project. But with the immediate need of a new engine I sent it to Cam Mosely to rebuild. He is a great guy to work with. The engine finally came back and it is beautiful. I am very excited to get the 40 back on the road.
Now I only have a 2 car garage and it is full of stuff already so I don't have a big shop but there is just enough room to get things done.
I had a J30 3 speed transmission so this was the perfect time to go to the H42 4 speed...also from the 1976 FJ40.
I rebuilt the transfer case from the 1976 and got them all mated and into my 1972 with some help frrom my son. He has a 1974 FJ40 so we have fun helping on each others rigs when we can.
I also bought the Sniper 2300 EFI from Cam and installed it. Spent a good deal of time making sure new fuel lines and electrical were connected well and routed in a tidy way.
Since the fender and bib are off I also am taking the opportunity to install power steering. That forced the move of the alternator to the passenger side. Wasn't that big of a deal to move it but it did mean I had to extend the harness over to reach it.
So new engine, new distributor forom City Racer with pertronix, Sniper EFI, relocated alternator....its alot to wrangle for me anyway.
Here is my problem. I have attempted to start it a few times and while it turns over fine it will not catch and fire up.
Battery is 12.61v.
Coil + is 11.04v
Coil - is 1.04v
Starter has 12.10v
But no spark.
I have read many of the no spark threads but nothing seems to get me a spark.
I have no ignitor, no ballast resistor
Perrhaps I wired the Sniper incorrectly and it is interfering with voltage somewhere. I dont think so.
I have insured that the new distributor is at TDC 3 or 4 times. All good there.
I will say that I'm not certain where the distributor is in relation to timing. Not really sure how to do that until it is running.
Do I just have too much going at one time or any ideas for me?
Thank you very much
Al
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Trigger6

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I don’t see where you mention it.... but I assume the Sniper screen is initializing when you try starting?

If you aren’t getting spark then it’s usually either distributor and/or coil related. Even if the timing is off, it should still spark. (I have a hunch your coil is bad.... someone in this forum should be able to give insight on how to check it)

I’m running pretty much the same setup as you (pertronix conversion on distributor/pertronix coil/sniper efi) but I do still have the igniter/ballast/resistor installed (too scared to remove it since it runs fine the way it is...)
 
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Jdc1

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There is a section in the FSM about setting your distributor up for the first time. There’s a lot of new variables to rule out for a first startup, I’d be really careful, especially with the sniper. It might have been in the Holley manual but I’ve read that you don’t really want to break in a new engine with a Sniper. Maybe @FJ60Cam has some insight.
 

BIG RENO AL

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I don’t see where you mention it.... but I assume the Sniper screen is initializing when you try starting?

If you aren’t getting spark then it’s usually either distributor and/or coil related. Even if the timing is off, it should still spark. (I have a hunch your coil is bad.... someone in this forum should be able to give insight on how to check it)

I’m running pretty much the same setup as you (pertronix conversion on distributor/pertronix coil/sniper efi) but I do still have the igniter/ballast/resistor installed (too scared to remove it since it runs fine the way it is...)
The Sniper screen does initialize when I have tried to start it and I have gone into the Wizard and entered all of the parameters it asks for.
The coil is new. It is nothing special. Import Direct internally resisted coil 122v coil.
Distributor, cap, pertronix 1662ls...all new
 

BIG RENO AL

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I asked Cam about the Sniper on a new engine start and he wasn't really concerned about it so I just went with it...but he obvoiusly knows much more than I do so I may be overlooking something easy. I'm sure I am.
 
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When the BB on the flywheel is lined up to the pointer on the bell housing, is the rotor on the distributor pointing towards the post for the number 1 cylinder?

Did you pull a plug and place it on the block and verify you do/ do not have spark?

If at any point you wired up the pertronix wrong its toast. I did that on mine accidentally recently
 

BIG RENO AL

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Yes I have verified TDC several times as I thought that was surely the problem.
Bellhousing pointer is actually at the TDC line not the BB.
Rotor is pointing to the #4 cylinder and so also the #1 position on the distributor cap.
I verified TDC with a remote starter and the #1 spark plug out and when it blew air out of the cylinder with my finger over the hole I fine tuned the flywheel position by rocking the truck.
I have seen a faint spark from the HT wire from the coil to distributor, but nothink from a spark plug.
I have an inline light spark tester that I watch while cranking the engine also. Doesnt flash at all.
The pertronix seems pretty easy to install. The 1662LS doesnt have the mag sleeve that goes over the distrubutor shaft.
It only has one red wire to coil+ and one wire to coil -
-Al
 

Steamer

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I have a DUI so I'm a bit different but,, I'm pretty sure,,
The pink Sniper wire does not deliver 12v to the coil but rather switched 12v from ignition switch should feed the pink wire as well as the coil + terminal.
 

Steamer

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Does the fuel pump run then stop for fuel prime when you turn the key to on? I wouldn't think so unless there's a wire I don't see.
 

BIG RENO AL

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I asked Cam if my sniper connections were OK and he thought they were fine.
The fuel pump does indeed pump for a moment then reaches 60psi per the in line gauge then stops.
Im beginning to think that even though the coil is new that it is the culprit.
We have a Summit Racing here in Reno. May get a Flamethrower II coil tomorrow.
I hate chasing problems with new parts but im at the limit of my knowledge here.
 

Steamer

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May get a Flamethrower II coil tomorrow.
I hate chasing problems with new parts but im at the limit of my knowledge here.
Know what ya mean. But if you end up dealing with Pertronix support, using the flamethrower coil may ease the process a bit. When I dealt with their support over a brand new but “dead” Ignitor, they put me through a gauntlet of tests to perform. It was a back & forth process via emails with a day or two delay between each of many which took forever for them to finally agree I had one that was DOA.
 

BIG RENO AL

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Well that may be my path. Thats OK. I am on vacation this week and had truly thought I may get it started. But in the end it doesnt have to happen now. But it does have to happen. I'll report in again after the Flamethrower II coil is installed. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
-Al
 

mrboatman

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Check the ohms of your coil it needs to be 3.0 ohm coil I had this problem this is from the instruction sheet,

The Ignitor is compatible only with a “resisted style” coil. Eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance. Six & four cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of resistance.
 

BIG RENO AL

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Current coil primary resistance is reading 2,7 ohms. The Pertronix Falmethrower I am planning on installing is rated at .6 ohms primary.
 

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