I’m running the 0.6ohm flamethrower (#45011) with the pertronix igniter (#91662). I purchased it all directly from pertronix and this is the set-up they recommended.
New engine Sniper, and everything else. Need help first time start
- Thread starter BIG RENO AL
- Start date
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I would think it should be easy to disconnect the igniter wires from the coil and test it while cranking the engine
- Thread starter
- #23
Yes the 45011 is the coil I will get tomorrow.
I have tested the coil by placing the HT wire to a ground and had the weakest spark ever but that is about all I know how to do.
Do you mean test the coil or the ignition module?
I have tested the coil by placing the HT wire to a ground and had the weakest spark ever but that is about all I know how to do.
Are you sure you aren't getting spark?
As far as my understanding (never used one, but read all the docs to understand requirement) the sniper can control timing with a bunch of Holley ignition parts, but generally would not control timing, and I assume can't with pertronix in a toyota dizzy and coil?
If you are getting spark on a tester from the coil to the dizzy, I'm pretty sure that's gotta be going somewhere (to ground), and unless your cap or rotor is wacked up (which should be pretty immediately obvious) it's kinda gotta be going through a plug to get to ground. Regardless of being out of time with the valves opening / closing and the pistons position, the electricity will still go from the coil to the spark plug if the ignition works.
As far as my understanding (never used one, but read all the docs to understand requirement) the sniper can control timing with a bunch of Holley ignition parts, but generally would not control timing, and I assume can't with pertronix in a toyota dizzy and coil?
If you are getting spark on a tester from the coil to the dizzy, I'm pretty sure that's gotta be going somewhere (to ground), and unless your cap or rotor is wacked up (which should be pretty immediately obvious) it's kinda gotta be going through a plug to get to ground. Regardless of being out of time with the valves opening / closing and the pistons position, the electricity will still go from the coil to the spark plug if the ignition works.
- Thread starter
- #25
Well thats a good point. I have seen a faint weak spark at the HT wire but nothing out of the distributor. I agree. It has to be going somewhere. I assumed it was so weak that it just couldnt get through the distributor. The Sniper can control timing on some distributors (DUI and maybe some others) but not my distributor.
I have assumed the cap and rotor are good as they are brand new. Maybe thats a bad assumption.
Not sure how to verify they are good or bad.
If the distributor is translating the current from the coil, why can I not see spark at the plugs?
I have assumed the cap and rotor are good as they are brand new. Maybe thats a bad assumption.
Not sure how to verify they are good or bad.
If the distributor is translating the current from the coil, why can I not see spark at the plugs?
The pertronix igniter (inside the distributor)
- Thread starter
- #27
Electrical issues are such a treat.
I'm not the most organized guy when I'm working on mt 40. Usually have 5 things going at once and Im tripping over myself to get any one of them done.
I got the Pertronix 45011 coil at Summit Racing yesterday (sure is great to have one of those in town!)
I install it and went to try to start and realized I couldnt because I had taken the gas tank out to fit the tranny tunnel to the new 4 speed tranny. So I spent yesterday getting that modified and putting some heat and sound abatement material on the underside of the tunnel. I also put in nutserts for the shifter boots.
The transfer case shifter boot is new and it came with this incredibly cheap and ugly thin black vinyl as the material. I used it as a pattern and sewed up a black leather boot and like it much better. So gas tank back in place, Tranny cover installed and back to the electrical stuff.
I first checked the voltage at the coil to see what I had.
Battery is freshly charged and showing 13.3 v
Coil + is 10.23 v
Coil neg is 3.3V. What the heck?
Tried to get a spark from the HT wire with the remote starter and no joy.
Tried to start it and of course no joy.
I feel like I have taken a step backwards here.
With the coil + showing less than 12v I think I may have some problem with the B\Y wire going to coil +.
Can I check that wire for continuity somehow or is that not very helpful here?
Thanks
-Al
I'm not the most organized guy when I'm working on mt 40. Usually have 5 things going at once and Im tripping over myself to get any one of them done.
I got the Pertronix 45011 coil at Summit Racing yesterday (sure is great to have one of those in town!)
I install it and went to try to start and realized I couldnt because I had taken the gas tank out to fit the tranny tunnel to the new 4 speed tranny. So I spent yesterday getting that modified and putting some heat and sound abatement material on the underside of the tunnel. I also put in nutserts for the shifter boots.
The transfer case shifter boot is new and it came with this incredibly cheap and ugly thin black vinyl as the material. I used it as a pattern and sewed up a black leather boot and like it much better. So gas tank back in place, Tranny cover installed and back to the electrical stuff.
I first checked the voltage at the coil to see what I had.
Battery is freshly charged and showing 13.3 v
Coil + is 10.23 v
Coil neg is 3.3V. What the heck?
Tried to get a spark from the HT wire with the remote starter and no joy.
Tried to start it and of course no joy.
I feel like I have taken a step backwards here.
With the coil + showing less than 12v I think I may have some problem with the B\Y wire going to coil +.
Can I check that wire for continuity somehow or is that not very helpful here?
Thanks
-Al
Check your grounds before doing anything else. Easy way is just use your voltmeter on battery positive, and then put the negative from the tester on the engine block, then frame, then body etc
- Thread starter
- #29
Great point and thanks for asking about the grounds.
I put a new ground wires in since its a new engine and I had easy access.
They are all 2 AWG wire.
1 from battery - to engine block. There arent a ton of places to put a bolt and hold the wire so this one is in the fule pump block off plate hole.
1 from battery - to frame just below the Battery tray.
And I have 1 going from that same spot below the battery tray to the alterrnator bracket.
I have never had a ground from frame to starter.
I just went and checked these grounds per your advice and at the bolts where they connect they all read battery voltage. The screws that hold the side cover on also show battery voltage. The coil bracket also shows batt voltage as does some screws on the fender.
Should this be enough viable grounds?
I put a new ground wires in since its a new engine and I had easy access.
They are all 2 AWG wire.
1 from battery - to engine block. There arent a ton of places to put a bolt and hold the wire so this one is in the fule pump block off plate hole.
1 from battery - to frame just below the Battery tray.
And I have 1 going from that same spot below the battery tray to the alterrnator bracket.
I have never had a ground from frame to starter.
I just went and checked these grounds per your advice and at the bolts where they connect they all read battery voltage. The screws that hold the side cover on also show battery voltage. The coil bracket also shows batt voltage as does some screws on the fender.
Should this be enough viable grounds?
You should be good if frame, body, and engine all show full voltage. Next I would check that your 12v wire is hot when on and while cranking. You may have a bad key/ contacts in the actual switch
- Thread starter
- #31
Ok where and how do I check this?
Thanks for the help.
-Al
Thanks for the help.
-Al
Not sure where your positive wire is sourced from going into the coil, disconnect it, and check that it has good voltage while key is in on position, and good voltage while cranking. You could also run a wire from battery direct just to eliminate this issue. Just don't leave it hooked up as you could fry the coil
- Thread starter
- #33
OK i just did this test.
Battery is 12.5 v
Unconnected the B\Y wire from the coil with ignition key on says 11.5 v
When cranking the B\Y wire says 9.5 v
Battery is 12.5 v
Unconnected the B\Y wire from the coil with ignition key on says 11.5 v
When cranking the B\Y wire says 9.5 v
That seems low, could be bad connections in switch, or 40 year old wire. Try run a wire direct from battery and check if you get spark. Just don't forget to disconnect after testing
- Thread starter
- #35
ok will do.
Have to report back in tomorrow.
The War Dept has me doing chores to get ready for New Years.
Thanks a million.
-Al
Have to report back in tomorrow.
The War Dept has me doing chores to get ready for New Years.
Thanks a million.
-Al
Checked my volts this morning for comparison... (engine not running)
Battery: 12.71V
Coil (+): 12.08V
Coil (-): 12.05V
When I installed my Sniper, Cam suggested I connect the pink wire to the carb solenoid wire for the power source instead of the coil.
- Thread starter
- #37
Trigger6,
Thank you for these comparison numbers...very helpful.
I took my ignition switch out to clean those contacts and the male ones were a bit dirty but not bad.
The female ones look worse so I am trying to figure out how to clean those now.
I also found a bad connector issue on the back of the fuse block. Trying to clean that up as well and then check for continuity or something with that wire. Might have to replace it or at least run another new wire beside it if I can figue out how to connect it to the fuseblock.
-Al
Thank you for these comparison numbers...very helpful.
I took my ignition switch out to clean those contacts and the male ones were a bit dirty but not bad.
The female ones look worse so I am trying to figure out how to clean those now.
I also found a bad connector issue on the back of the fuse block. Trying to clean that up as well and then check for continuity or something with that wire. Might have to replace it or at least run another new wire beside it if I can figue out how to connect it to the fuseblock.
-Al
- Thread starter
- #38
Well I got the engine running!
As I said earlier in this thread I knew it would be something monumentally stupid and it was.
The Sniper instructions indicate to run the Dark Brown wire from the 10 pin connector to the aftermarket tach.
I took this to mean that I could splice the dark brown wire into the existing aftermarket tach wire going to the coil neg post.
This effectively cancelled the signal from the yellow wire from the 10 pin connector that also goes to coil negative.
I now have the Dark Brown wire connected to the wire coming from the aftermarket tach and they don't go any where near the coil.
As I said earlier in this thread I knew it would be something monumentally stupid and it was.
The Sniper instructions indicate to run the Dark Brown wire from the 10 pin connector to the aftermarket tach.
I took this to mean that I could splice the dark brown wire into the existing aftermarket tach wire going to the coil neg post.
This effectively cancelled the signal from the yellow wire from the 10 pin connector that also goes to coil negative.
I now have the Dark Brown wire connected to the wire coming from the aftermarket tach and they don't go any where near the coil.