New dissent offroad no cut rear bumper! (2 Viewers)

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Awesome design Ben... the lines are pefection.

The welds look decent ;)
 
To my understanding an aluminum rear would have a lower pull (tow) rating and thus you wouldn't be able to tow as much with an aluminum rear bumper. The only aluminum rear bumpers I've seen on 4x4 vehicles before all mention that your tow rating will decrease.
 
To my understanding an aluminum rear would have a lower pull (tow) rating and thus you wouldn't be able to tow as much with an aluminum rear bumper. The only aluminum rear bumpers I've seen on 4x4 vehicles before all mention that your tow rating will decrease.

I get what your saying but...

That's kinda like saying the factory 100 plastic bumper is responsible for the towing - when really the steel hitch and frame do all the work.

Looks like he's fabricating a steel hitch plate that's mounted through the aluminum bumper to the steel factory cross member (this is a NO cut version)

In other words, with Ben's ingenious design - this bumper could be made of cheese and it would still tow as much as the factory setup

@duvinclunk I think this is going to compliment your build quite nicely.

This is all speculation until the boss @benc chimes in
 
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To my understanding an aluminum rear would have a lower pull (tow) rating and thus you wouldn't be able to tow as much with an aluminum rear bumper. The only aluminum rear bumpers I've seen on 4x4 vehicles before all mention that your tow rating will decrease.
@bozncsurf is correct. The aluminum version will have the same towing capabilities as the steel.
 
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I get what your saying but...

That's kinda like saying the factory 100 plastic bumper is responsible for the towing - when really the steel hitch and frame do all the work.

Looks like he's fabricating a steel hitch plate that's mounted through the aluminum bumper to the steel factory cross member (this is a NO cut version)

In other words, with Ben's ingenious design - this bumper could be made of cheese and it would still tow as much as the factory setup

@duvinclunk I think this is going to compliment your build quite nicely.

This is all speculation until the boss @benc chimes in
Ahhh good point. You’re not removing the steel behind the bumper cover. The other ones I’ve seen on 4x4 trucks will actually remove the hitch as well.

Ben, I want aluminum! :rofl:
 
Thanks! I dabble.
You should seriously post more videos on your Instagram page. I really liked the two you posted a few days ago disproving the "accusations of trigger welding". There's no arguing that you have serious skills Ben. I and I'm sure many others would love to see your artwork in the making. I'm sure it gets hectic around the shop since you're cranking out so many different products for all different vehicle types, and taking the time to capture a video might be your very last priority, but a couple of y'all laying some pristine beads (I'm more interested in seeing your technique in action through the lens of a welders mask), operating the CNC plasma cutter, or even using the brake would be awesome to watch! I follow a few other smaller fabrication shops and that's all they post. Being a MEEG major specializing in design & fab (and also in the process of learning to weld SMAW, MIG, & TIG) that kind of stuff really interests me. Often times I'll find myself getting lost for hours looking through those other welders pages watching and taking mental notes trying to sharpen my own skills. Your craftsmanship far exceeds theirs so I figured showing your work in progress would be really interesting to watch. Heck it might even bring more business your way (although it doesn't seem you're struggling in that department at all:p). Just some food for thought; I like using big boy toys and while I may not be able to afford them outside of using my universities equipment, I enjoy watching those who can:)
 
Any reason the 7pin trailer plug couldn't be switched for a Hopkin's 40975 Multi-tow unit? Obviously the mount hole would need to be modified to accommodate this style plug but might I recommend it instead of the one you're using? It's a much more OEM solution that's used on so many vehicles so it's pretty proven. Seems like the new bumper has a little more room for this too.

Link: http://a.co/d/1UESt6U

71t9xxg6avL._SL1500_.jpg
 
There are plenty of spots I suppose.
The problem is the factory camera is such junk it's hardly worth relocating.
I would recommend installation of an after market camera and wire it in.
You can get new cameras off Amazon for like $20 and they are considerably better picture quality than oem.

I may of missed it but is there a spot for camera relocation on this bumper?
 
a ded
There are plenty of spots I suppose.
The problem is the factory camera is such junk it's hardly worth relocating.
I would recommend installation of an after market camera and wire it in.
You can get new cameras off Amazon for like $20 and they are considerably better picture quality than oem.
a dedicated spot for a aftermarket camera, like a license plate bracket kinda, would be awesome!
 
Any reason the 7pin trailer plug couldn't be switched for a Hopkin's 40975 Multi-tow unit? Obviously the mount hole would need to be modified to accommodate this style plug but might I recommend it instead of the one you're using? It's a much more OEM solution that's used on so many vehicles so it's pretty proven. Seems like the new bumper has a little more room for this too.

I would vote for what Ben has currently has chosen, as the 4 pin flat is not as universal as it once was. Many boat and other trailers have gone to disk brakes which require the backup light wire to disable surge brakes in order to backup. So they are using 5pin flat or larger connectors.
Adapter pigtails are cheap and going to be required in a lot of cases even if you have a 4 pin flat piggy backed on the connector.
 
Is this bumper finalized and you are taking orders Ben? Or not yet? I don’t wanna miss out!
 
I would vote for what Ben has currently has chosen, as the 4 pin flat is not as universal as it once was. Many boat and other trailers have gone to disk brakes which require the backup light wire to disable surge brakes in order to backup. So they are using 5pin flat or larger connectors.
Adapter pigtails are cheap and going to be required in a lot of cases even if you have a 4 pin flat piggy backed on the connector.

The connector I referenced has both a 7 pin and a 4 pin so it's the best of both worlds and includes a reverse wire (blade atyle 7 pin are wired this way). As for disabling brakes while backing up, a good brake controller can accomplish this too. My Tekonsha Prodigy 3 has a brake lockout mode for reversing. I have the referenced plug on my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I got one for my Land Cruiser too. ItsI what's used on the newer Toyota Tundra and Tacoma with tow packages too.
 
... As for disabling brakes while backing up, a good brake controller can accomplish this too. My Tekonsha Prodigy 3 has a brake lockout mode for reversing. I have the referenced plug on my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I got one for my Land Cruiser too. ItsI what's used on the newer Toyota Tundra and Tacoma with tow packages too.

You are mistaken on the brakes, boat trailers and others with disk brakes have surge brakes, not electric brakes so there is no controller. Most all of these have moved to 5 pin flat connectors, to pass the backup wire to cutoff valve on the surge brakes. So you would need a 7 pin to 5 pin adapter. Once you get past small utility trailers, to boat, horse, travel trailers you need a 7 pin to something (other than 4 pin) adapter.
So we are needing adapters in many cases, so lets look at total cost to support 4 pin flat.
Your suggested connector with a 4 pin flat costs about $20, the 7 pin only connector cost $5. For $8 you can get a 7 to 4 flat adapter.
 
@Skidoo I see where you are coming from on the adaptors. Surge brakes suck but they have a place on boat trailers since electric brakes could short under water when loading the boat in or out of the water...Almost any small U-haul or utility trailer is still a 4-pin and it's nicer to not need an adaptor.

Anyway, I'd still prefer a nicer, OEM style connector with no screw plate on a 2400 dollar bumper but I'll work directly with Ben on this request.
 

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